| Author | Message | ||
     Barrick09 |
After chasing this problem for over 2 month I finally stumble onto this video. The guy is able to replicate the problem that I haven't been able to. Like he states in the video I also thought it was the carb and diagnosed the entire fuel systems. But now I'm sure it electrical. The bike will run for a while and then die. This may be hours, or min sometimes. Completely random. If the bike sits it will fire up as if nothing happened. Also once it stops running it backfires sometimes. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtCreP3rcgo Now my 99 X1 had a dyna S ignition installed before I bought it. Mine looks exactly like this photo.  Question is, Can the black module in this photo create the same symptoms when failing? any way to check? I'm just don't know much about how ignition modules work. (Message edited by barrick09 on September 28, 2019) | ||
| Barrick09 |
Or is it more liekly this part located under the seat? Looks like its called the igintion module (ECM)  | ||
| Ocbueller |
Could be as simple as an ignition key switch failing. They are a known weak point. My 99 drove me nuts till I figured it out. SteveH | ||
| Barrick09 |
I did consider that but thought this to be more likely. I might start there since a new one is only 21$ on jp cycles. I'm down to 1 key anyway. These 2 options are expensive and can't be found locally. Any way to test the ignition key? maybe bypass it once the bike stops running and see if it starts again? And correct me if I am wrong, but if the ignition key failed wouldnt that stop the bike from even trying to crank/start? | ||
| Screamer |
If the ignition switch has been proven good and the issue continues, it’s likely to be the cam position sensor. If the sensor is failing after heating up it can usually be revived by cooling it (ziplock bag of ice or spray with a cooling agent). If the sensor has this behavior, it will finally fail completely and not restart. Sometimes, but not always, the rotor cup may be distorted, and will clip the sensor, leading to a sensor failure. If there are witness marks on the cup and black “dust” on the back side of the sensor plate, there is likely contact which can cause an eventual sensor failure if not resolved. | ||
| Harleyelf |
My ignition switch had an intermittent failure at the same time as my cam position sensor began sparking extra times. Sometimes when starting it would seem the engine was trying to run backwards. Harley is stocking a flat-key switch now for the Sportster which fits in our switch housing just fine - you have to solder the wires to your old connector. | ||
| Barrick09 |
I have ruled out the key switch. Heat tested some of the other components. I also believe it to be the cam position sensor. Does anyone have a part number? 1999 Buell x1 lightning. I did a google search but results seemed to vary all over the place. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Barrick09: Taken from the 1999 Parts Manual... Cam Position Sensor, Page 23, Item# 14 32400-94 Trigger Rotor, Page 23, Item# 15 32422-98 | ||
| Barrick09 |
Tow_season: The problem is the previous owner installed a Dynatek ignition. I believe what I need is this. https://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-297/dynatek-s -ignition-system?mrkgcl=444&mrkgadid=3308569133&ut m_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=4919008935 63_product_type_motorcycles_product_type_electrica l_and_batteries_product_t&utm_campaign=Google+Shop ping++Generic+-+Electrical+and+Batteries&product_i d=381-297&utm_content=pla&adpos=1o2&creative=27886 7792093&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQ jwrMHsBRCIARIsAFgSeI3qWWyZsJ3978HxvzU6ox5VU7JNu7le 4tcwX0TWjNGEOxMlEfRGOLcaApjqEALw_wcB | ||
| Two_seasons |
The link above looks to be the basic bare bones model. Why don't you get this one https://www.jpcycles.com/product/730-577/dynatek-2 000i-ignition Just curious... | ||
| Barrick09 |
the almost 3X price probably has something to do with it. But damn some of those features sound nice. (Message edited by barrick09 on September 29, 2019) | ||
| 651lance |
Was your bike converted to a carburetor? If the ignition was converted to a Dyna S like in the picture then you should have a set of mechanical weights under the ignition cover, ones the cover and post a picture of what under it. | ||
| Barrick09 |
651lance: yes it was converted to carb and yes under the ignition cover it looks exactly like the link above. Ecatly like this photo.  | ||
| 651lance |
That is a dyna s pick up and not the same as the oem pick up. Most of the time the mechanical advances are set up correctly for the XL / Buell style engine. I would scrap the dyna s and go with a Daytona twin tech complete kit like in the kit below. I think what you’ll find once you start doing more test you’ll find out either one of the two things. coil ohms are off and the heat of the engine is making the start to fail making the sensor shut down. Or once the sensor gets heat soaked it’s failing. Either way everyone quit using mechanical advance ignitions 25 years ago do to there high failure rate. If you don’t want to update the ignition check the ohms resistance on the coil. You'll need to find out if it a 3 or 5 ohm coil and check both the primary and secondary. Check for cracks form the coil over heating. If the incorrect coil ohms is used with the pick up sensor they will cause sensor to shut down. If the coil checkout ok then move the the pick up. With the bike running heat up the sensor for a few minutes with a hair dryer and see if it fails. If it fails confirm your still getting 12v to the coil. https://www.jpcycles.com/product/383-362/daytona-t win-tec-ignition-kit?v=2 | ||
| Hawgford |
woah up.. you've got oranges and apples here a dyna S is NOT a full electronic ignition. goin to the dyna 2Ki is full electronic ignition and is the best by far american made electronic set up for any bike.. forget pricin but is around $150 i think. no coil or wire change needed if you had the S on there before.. i wont install anything else but dynatek. twin tech components go in the trash.too many fails. when crane owned their hi-4 ignition it was good now S&S owns and its made overseas.the dynatek can be set up single or dual fire and can be run with a kick start none of the other brands have these features as well as dual plug head set up fully adjustable rev limits and more..again a dyna S is not full electronic ignition.. | ||
| 651lance |
30 hears in the harley business and sent back more dyna ignitions then any other brand. Crane was the go to until S&S pick the up. I’ve seen less failures using Daytona Twin Tec. With this bike you only need it to be set up for electric start. Everyone will have their favorite systems for one reason or another, it’s just what system will work right for the application. | ||
| Barrick09 |
Hawgford is correct in that the Dynatek 2000i is practically a direct plug and play to upgrade what I have now. After doing some searching you can find them new for $160-180 and that probably the route I'll go. I've also never heard anything bad about Dynatek and everyone considers them the best in the game. This system has been on the bike for 25K miles and over 10 years and this is the first issue ever. | ||
| Odd |
Can you use a buell sensor 32443 04. In a x1? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I doubt it. Sphd says it doesn’t work in 03 XBs, I doubt it works in older models. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Why would you EVER put a fly-weight advance in a modern bike??? My '79 sportster has that. SUCKS. Have to keep the pivots greased. Everything goes egg-shaped eventually and little springs break, causing the weights to drag on inside of case like a centrifugal clutch. As soon as I have the time to get that old dumpster fire on the road again, I am ridding it of any advance weights and points. The 1970's are over. Ignite your mixtures in a more intelligent manner! |
