|Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 06:19 am: ||
I have a Buell X1 Lightning 2000 mod. with 7500 miles on it.
I bought it a couple of years ago and when i first got it i took it for some rides to work etc. but it didn't run very well. Under 3-3500 rpm, or maybe it was higher i don't remember exactly, it would run ok, but when i got over 3500 rpm it was almost like it went to limp mode. Stop the bike and let it rest for a while, start it up and it was not in limp mode anymore. This was during the time i was building our house and garage, so i just kept it under 3500 rpm and thought i was going to fix it when the garage was finished. But in the autumn the bike fell over while standing on its sidestand. This was late autumn, in northern Norway, so, winter was coming. I put the bike on a trailer and stored it for the winter. When the spring came i took the bike out, but now i cant ride it. It starts, but dies. If i try to rev it, it might go a little, spits, bangs, and then dies. This is while its on a motorcycle stand. There's no chance i got to ride it. That said; the bike had been sitting for 5-10 years. I drained fueltank and added new fuel. The old fuel was brownish, with some kind of gue, almost muddy. I also took the fuel pump out, but i have no idea if its ok or not, but the fuel filter on the pump was brown, and there is some stains on the pump and the pressureregulator. I have changed the fuel filter thats under the fuel tank. Also new plug wires and sparkplugs.
With EcmSpy i have checked inlet air temp ok, engine temp ok, TPS ok, CPS ok. Also i done the diagnostic function all ok.
I had fault code 13, oxygen sensor, briefly.
One sparkplug was a little white while the other was maybe a bit wet. Only one O2 sensor on this.
Any ideas where to start?
Have tried to follow ground cables to check for good connection.
Also, nearest Harley shop is 2.5-3 hours away, so i want to troubleshoot a little more by myself before sending it away to them. But again, they have little knowledge to Buell, so they reccon its a change components until it works way to fix it.
Hope to get some help, or maybe be guided to someone who can help me.
(Message edited by feskerlars on April 26, 2019)
|Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 06:40 am: ||
Also i have opened the fuel filter on the fuel pump and checked inside the fuel pump, everything there looked very good. Also took out fuel injectors and they at least looked clean. Took endoscope camera and inspected were the injectors should be, and all the way to the valves, also there everything looked very clean.
Checked inside cylinders with endoscope and also there it looked good. Rear cylinder had some unburnt fuel in it.
Changed O2 sensor and got a new battery.
Does anybody know what resetting the AFV should be good for? Read somewhere on the interweb that after changing O2 sensor i need to reset TPS and AFV, and thats okay, i can do that with EcmSpy, but i like to know why i am doing what i am doing.
New battery not installed, not enough hours in the day. Will try to get the fuel tank back on and install new battery tomorrow. Will read faultcodes then and also reset TPS and AFV, if necessary.
Hoping it's a minor issue causing these problems.
|Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 09:00 am: ||
I would suspect the injectors are dirty or clogged...
|Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 01:41 pm: ||
Old stale gas that smells kinda like turpentine can turn into a varnish like substance that can easily cause the intake valves to stick. If you tried to run it with stale gas in the tank, that might a factor.
To rule that out, I'd pull the spark plugs and run a compression test to see if the valves are functioning OK.
|Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 02:31 pm: ||
Welcome to BadWeb, Jorgen.
When your RPM's go over 3,500, your bike operates in OPEN LOOP mode.
When idling, your bike is operating in CLOSED LOOP mode.
Have you checked your Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Clean up all your fuses and relays using a good electrical contact cleaner, both on the components and in the fuse/relay box.
Is your bike stock?
Any chance your injector o-rings seals have a tear in them? How about good seals for the throttle body? Are there new gaskets on the air intake?
If you have access to a propane bottle, you can check your seals using unlit propane. If you can get a rubber hose over the propane nozzle, it makes getting the propane into the tighter areas easier.
|Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 06:02 am: ||
Put the bike together last night, filled up with new gas and tried to start. It turns but wouldn't start. Had other things to do so i let it be for a while, but tried one more time before i went to bed. It started, but it's not idling. I can't get it to idle if i give it a little revs either, it just dies out. Check engine lamp is blinking, but when i try to read fault codes there are no one. Had to go to work today, but will take my time in the garage when i get home.
Injectors look clean. I have not done a proper testing, but they look very clean. Also inspected intake manifold with snake camera, looks very clean.
I will try compression testing.
Can i turn off O2 sensor in EcmSpy? I think i tried that last year, but with no change in behavior.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor is showing right temperature in EcmSpy. Fuse box and relays are cleaned up, looks good.
I took out injectors, O-rings look whole. Wouldn't i see small gas leak if the O-rings are bad?
The bike is not stock, and i do not have the stock parts. They are unfortunately lost. It has not stock muffler and Forcewinder/K&N air intake. Stock ECM though. I can check seals with propane or other.
|Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 10:18 am: ||
I had similar issues with my 99 S3 which turned out to be the cam position sensor. Threw O2 sensor codes, misfired, had extra firings at unwanted times.
I took the fuel injection off. I now have a M2 module, Mikuni 42 flatside, Sportster cam position sensor and coil, and a 1250 kit from NRHS. Runs great.
I could probably have fixed it by replacing the CPS and re-setting the TPS.
|Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 02:43 pm: ||
Fully charged battery, primed fuel pump a few times, and the bike starts and idles. But now it's not building oil pressure, as soon as i saw the oil lamp still on i killed it off. Low oil level, but not much oil spill under the bike, it's been on the same place for a long time, but definitely not much oil left. 3 hours to nearest H-D dealer, so might be a few days until i get new oil. Also noticed a lower voltage drop when ignition is turned on. 12,4V until i turn ignition on, then it drops to 11,4V. Not sure what the voltage was when it was idling, but the EcmSpy froze when i stopped the bike, and there it said 11,4V or 11,8V, i cant remember. What should charing voltage be on the Buell X1? On my car it's closer to 14V when it's running. Maybe nothing, but worth mentioning.
|Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2019 - 04:45 pm: ||
Charging voltage is 14.2 to 14.7 volts. Rest voltage should be between 12 and 13.
New oil filter?
|Posted on Friday, May 03, 2019 - 02:16 am: ||
After filling oil and doing TPS reset i started it up again. Idles good. Revs good also. Stopped it and started it again and it still idles well and revs like it should. Did not have time to do a test run, so decided to eventually do that next day. Also clutch is sticking, so need to fix that, again. But next day the bike won't start. Engine turns but no firing. The day before i started it a couple of times, but the next day after trying to start it several times the battery is out. Charged it up and tried later on, and the bike starts, but it won't idle, nor rev properly. I'm starting to suspect the fuel pump for being bad. When turning ignition on the fuel pump should make a even buzzing sound. But it doesn't. On my XB12S i had earlier the sound was much more even and high pitched. If a healthy pump made a sound like this; จจจจจจจจจจจจจจจจ, my pump starts high pitched but starts to struggle, like จจจจจ----___--__ I don't know if this explains what i mean, but i found a video on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUR9zLUdrtw , and my bike behaves very similar to this one, and he wrote it was a bad fuel pump. So i'm ordering a new fuel pump hoping it will be better.
|Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2019 - 02:15 am: ||
New fuel pump installed.
Been out for a test ride, seems good.
Picking up number plates when they arrive at the DMV and then i can take it for a real ride.
Thinking it's okay to post small updates here, worst thing is finding a thread with your symptoms, but not a conclusion.
|Posted on Monday, June 17, 2019 - 01:55 am: ||
Not much response here, but still going to post updates.
After changing fuel pump the bike seems pretty normal. Some coughing when getting closer to 3.000 rpm, but from 3.500 rpm and up it smoothes out. Earlier i couldn't get the bike over 3.500 rpm. Went for a test drive to my brother in law, but the bike wouldn't start when i was going home! Ignition on, touched starter and it dies, all lights out, and no sign of life. Meassured battery and it shows 2 volts when ignition on. Startet to think maybe a short in starter, but batterycables was cold, so no short. Brand new gel battery, had it for two test rides, so i took it back to hardware store, turns out it's a internal short. Got new battery, that is supposed to withstand vibrations better.
After that it was only terrible weather, so needed to testride it later.
Also, need new clutch cable, small leakage where it goes in to primary cover, small damage on cable.
My boss gave me some original parts the other day, air scoop and air cleaner box, now it has open air intake. Going to install these, i think the Buell X1 looks better with these on. Missing some screws and minor parts to get it looking good.
With the weather forecast not looking good it got stuck in the garage for a while, but thats life north of the arctic circle.
The bike started to idle very high when getting hot, but did a TPS reset when engine was hot and after that it idles normal both cold and hot.
After a while summer arrived and i got some miles on my bike, all seems good.
Between 2.000-3.500 rpm, when i'm holding a certain speed, the bike sputts a bit. But if i give it full throttle it runs OK, so maybe those famous intake gaskets should have been changed, will test the spray startgas around intake seals trick. Also i have this Forcewinder open air filter mounted, and there is a bad gasket there. I have got the air box and will mount that when i have ordered the screws, gaskets and a couple of small items i need. But for daily rides it works fine.
So, hopefully it will run smoother after i put on air box, if that doesn't do it i will take a look on intake gaskets.
|Posted on Monday, June 17, 2019 - 01:35 pm: ||
I'm not familiar with FI bikes but if you've checked all fuel circuits - everything from the tank to the cylinder - lines, fuel pump, filter, manifold seals, injectors - and all is clear, pressure strong and FI working - then fuel system should be good.
I was thinking electrical issue and then read your battery post. Just because of how long it sat and the hassle you've already been through, I'd go through the entire ignition system thoroughly and test each component, including the plug wires. Also, IME voltage regulators on tubers can be a issue - mine's been through two. What I would first check though are all the connections and especially the grounds. A connection can look okay, but then when you disconnect it, can be corroded. I had just such an issue with my FXD. The ground appeared clean but when I unbolted the battery cable - it was corroded so badly I was having starting and ignition problems. A simple cleaning solved it. Good luck!