| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
OK, so I know I've had race headers that have a brace/tab between primary tubes where they first meet, to hold them in place and prevent the rear primary from being a bouncy "tuning fork" piece of metal. My S1W's header does not have that brace. And, while washing it today...I found a crack at the collector where the rear primary attaches. Now, I always torque my exhausts properly and I know from years of experience that I'm doing it correctly. This is the first header (OEM or race) I've had crack, in nearly 100k miles of Buell riding. I suspect it's because the rear collector pipe is such a long, hoop-shaped, vibration-susceptible piece of tubing that even with it properly attached, it simply wiggled itself apart from the sheer length of it all. How many of you out there have an early tuber, with an S-bend race header? Can you look at them and see if there's a tab between primaries at the front of the engine? Or was that a later, T-bend, addition that I'm thinking of? Or maybe even XB? Now to find someone who can weld stainless....to fix a crack, and add a stabilizer tab... | ||
| Ebutch |
  No tabs on mine. | ||
| Ebutch |
Tabs on Race CAN yes.  | ||
| Ebutch |
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| Rtlll |
Hi Joe, A tab like this ? 1995 S2 Hope this helps, Rick  | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's it! I knew I'd seen one somewhere... | ||
| Ebutch |
Never seen till now.But why put on outside in vision.Put tab on other side out of vision.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Easier fix here if a weld cracks, without removing the header. The reason I want to add one is to lock the angle in, before removing the header, so the ports line up with the heads. I wouldn't want to remove a header without that tab holding the primaries in place. | ||
| Screamer |
I checked what I could locate easily: Very early S2 header, (June 1994) no brace/strap, S2 header age unknown - no strap, Early Race header prototype - no strap, Early Race header - has strap, 2" Race header age unknown - has strap If I remember correctly (always questionable) the reason for the step being in front is to permit rotation/spreading to ease installation. | ||
| Ebutch |
T Race header also has a much more stout reinforcement.  I think I will do this to my S race header on back-side this winter. | ||
| Ebutch |
Joe would you post pic of cracked header?  | ||
| Ratbuell |
I can but it cracked right at the weld, where the rear primary pipe goes into the collector. I noticed it when I was cleaning the bike, grabbed the rear pipe under the air cleaner to get some schmutz off it...and it moved nearly 1/2" vertically. Head studs were tight, flange didn't move, so the only other choice was....collector weld. Cracked about halfway around. Front primary is still solidly attached. Needless to say, I'm not starting or riding it till I get it braced, removed, and repaired. | ||
| Ratbuell |
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| Ebutch |
100,000 miles it owes you little and easy repair too.I live close to a mettle shop witch specialise in stainless.Hope my wishbone helps better in vibes to Header.  | ||
| Ebutch |
Oldie but goodie www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/6348 78.html?1306632439 Looks like a better fit |
