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Gingerx1
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So new to buell. Got my first one last week. 1999 x1. I have a race ecm. When its in the bike after about 20 miles bike starts back firing bucking running like shit. Throws codes for air intake sensor and low battery. Pulled the plugs and there super black. Changed plugs. Still same issue. Put stock ecu back in. Runs great. But ideal hamgs up around 2000 on the way back to idle for a couple seconds. Whats my issue ? Thanks.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check intake seals. Sounds like maybe an intake leak. Spray brake cleaner where the intake meets the head while the bike is running to see if idle changes. If not, then try a TPS reset. With aftermarket exhaust/intake, runs better on race map, usually lean in the midrange on the stock map causing popping. No need to change ecm, just re-map with ecmspy.

Here’s my link to stock and race maps: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z8eisgzjdggs5o7/AADvFoc JtuwaIc65FGj8iNEaa?dl=0
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Gingerx1
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ill check intake seals. I have reset tps and no change. When i set tps where it jeeds to be with race ecm it just idels out and dies. It does have exaust and intake. So after i rule out intake seals throw race ecm back in and down load your race tune to my laptop ? I do have ecmspy but no idea how to remap
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Gingerx1
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And if you have the time maybe give me noob steps in how to remap the ecm with the tunes you sent me
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2018 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Based on my ownership experience with an X-1, the 'hanging idle' is a sign of leaking intake seals. And since the calendar can be every bit as damaging as misuse, I would go ahead and change the seals as a matter of preventive maintenance. Also eliminates them as an issue during further trouble shooting.

Black plugs indicates a rich mixture. The ECM may have 'learned' to enrichen the entire fuel map due to the probably leaking intake seals. Don't hesitate to check the Adaptive Fuel Value with ECMspy, and reset it to 100. I suspect it may be much higher than that. Check both ECMs.

Then ride it for a bit, and let us know how it goes. You may not need to remap the ECM.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2018 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the ECU complains about intake temp sensor, go there first. It's a little thermistor that lives in the intake and tells the computer what temperature the intake air is so that it can extrapolate how much air is getting in.
(It has no mass airflow sensor)

Also, check your battery terminals and ground strap. Very important for these fuel injected bikes to have a solid connection to the battery.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2018 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nate touched on one area to check re the battery cables. Make sure both cables and cable ends are corrosion free and tight. Do the same to the main chassis ground, located under the left rear corner of the fuel tank. The calendar thing again.

Since you got multiple codes after 20 miles, another possibility is the Engine Temp Sensor MAY be going out of calibration, though when it happened on mine I got several codes.
It might do to do the grounds/battery cable connections, replace the intake seals, and then start the engine and check battery voltage with a multimeter at about 2k rpm. If you have 14.5V minimum, it might be time to check the engine temp sensor, because the charging system is working properly.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Gingerx1
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2018 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanka for the input guys. So woth the race ecm i put it in reset afv and tps took it for a spin. Came back idle was super low and afv was 79. Idk if thats rich or lean. I put stock ecm in again throws no codes put idle hangs up aroumd 2k. I also sprayed around intake as i read with starting fluid and no idle change. BUT my battery volts seem to run around 11.6 or so. And i do get a code for low battery voltage. Think battery is junk or stater ? Think that could be my issue is low voltage.
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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 'ideal' afv for a stock ecm is 100. Below that is lean, above 100 is rich. Depending on the individual engine and local conditions, anything from about 95 to 105 can be expected, with good performance. Have no idea what numbers a race ecm would produce.

If you show 11.6v with the engine at 2-3k rpm,s, there is an issue. You should have something above 14.5v. Have the battery load tested, and if it is good, then it will be time to start looking at the charging system.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Gingerx1
Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So checked charging system and its at abiut 14.2 vilts and battery is good. So im stumped. Intake seals seem fine.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the AFV goes down like that then extra fuel must be getting in like from a leaking injector.
Since the computer only pays attention to the rear jug, any leaking injector would be found there.

My dodge pickup failed like that. One injector would leak when under pressure.
I found it by taking out all eight injectors, turning on the ignition and not starting the engine.
This pressurized the fuel rail.
Sure enough #1 started to drip.
one $85 injector later, I was back in the running.

In the case for our bikes, of course it's much more simple.
I think you can even see the nozzle in the throttle body if you use a flashlight and open the butterfly.
Turn it on without starting it and see if the rear injector drips.
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Gingerx1
Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2018 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well update ive been watching the afv after every ride. I always reset it too 100 and after about a 30 mile ride. Ot was maxed at 150 once. And then 130. And seems to like to stay around 130. Idk why it runs super rich all the time. But i did notice if i shake the plug to the intake sensor. The tenp kn my laptop for the intake sensor will move around as i shake the wire. So bad sensor or short in the wire somewhere ? Also cant seem to find where to buy a new intake sensor. Anyone got any leads on where to find parts for this thing ?
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2018 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lance at St. Paul HD sphdonline.com

New castle HD if you find a Part number on twinmotorcycles website.
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651lance
Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2018 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The intake sensors have been on backorder for around 5 months now and still a few more weeks before HD claims they are going to release or push the date out again.

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Screamer
Posted on Wednesday, August 15, 2018 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a spare new one in the package. I'll send a PM to you.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With AFV at 79 you have a really rich spot in the learned fuel area, you have a bad head temp sensor--take a look at it while bike is running and make sure it is stable and seems proper---or you have leaking injector. 79 means it is pulling 21% fuel from the entire map. Idle needs to be set with bike warm at about 1050 or you will get a "hang".And leaking intake seals will NOT cause an overly rich condition as you are seeing, but they are a maintenance item. If you want, send me a copy of your eeprom and I will check it out.
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Jespo_m2
Posted on Wednesday, February 12, 2020 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Firing up an old X1 fuel injection issue thread as I now have an 02 X1, and helping a friend that also has an 02 X1. Mine runs fine, his doesn’t.
I haven’t had a chance to diagnose my friends yet... current symptom: bike will not start cold with new battery, fresh plugs and fresh fuel. Fuel pump primes then stop as expected.
Before getting into the FI diag process (I’m experienced with using ecmspy to troubleshoot issues .. and happy to start a new thread), my ask is... Does anyone has a cross reference list of X1 FI components that can be purchased from an auto part store? 5 month back orders are unacceptable and HD dealer support for Buell’s is getting scarce.
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Akbuell
Posted on Wednesday, February 12, 2020 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First just for fun, if the bike is getting returned to service after a long time sitting, try spraying starting fluid into the intake while cranking it over. If it tries to run, you can most likely eliminate ignition system issues.

If the bike did sit for a while, my first guess would be clogged injectors. I have poor luck with the Badweb search function, but there has been previous discussion of using Ford fuel injection parts. I believe the injectors are comparable to 5.0L fuel injected Mustangs of about the '05 era. Seems the cylinder volume if a 5.0L V-8 is very close to the cylinder volume of a 1200CC V-twin.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Akbuell
Posted on Wednesday, February 12, 2020 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Other thoughts:

Before getting too far into the bike, confirm fuel pressure and flow to the fuel rail. Just because the pump cycles . . .

If you have a nearby H-D dealer, don't hesitate to use my system - ask for
Sportster parts. If I ask for rocker box gaskets for a Buell, the parts guys eyes go glassy, and "Um, we don't have Buell parts." If I ask for rocker box gaskets for an "02 Sportster, the response is "How many do you need."

If it is an injector needed, try asking for an 29533-99. That number, with a Y suffix, is the Buell number. He probably has them in stock, and the bike won't care.

Dave
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Jespo_m2
Posted on Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 07:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the update Dave!
You’re spot on!
The bike sat for about 18 years on display at a HD dealership. I put fresh gas in it, new HD battery, drained/replaced oil, cleaned plugs, pulled the air box cover off and got it running on starting fluid and continued to run. Let it run for about 10 minutes with continuous revs. (Couldn’t ride it due to lots of snow in MA) Stopped the engine, restarted no problem.
Bike sat for a 3-5 weeks, won’t start on its own again. I’m sure it will start on starting fluid again.
I’m going to put together a spreadsheet to track all cross reference and HD part numbers for X1 FI components. We’re at the 20 year mark with the X1 platform... time to prepare.
Also the carb conversion intrigues me, (no debate that X1 FI is better/worse than carb) Just another process that should be documented for the inevitable.

(Message edited by Jespo_m2 on February 13, 2020)
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89rs1200
Posted on Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fuel injection complexity is why I ride the 1997-1998 S3, which came with carburetors.

When carburetors begin to fail:
* The motor is still rideable.
* They are analog, so when they do start to fail, they still work at some level.
* No fuel pump. Surprisingly enough, intermittent pump failures are difficult to diagnose and expensive to replace.
* Ignition electronics is old school and extremely reliable.
* I get 58 - 62 MPG highway on all my S3s.
* Less drain on the battery and alternator. I have ridden, more than once, 500 miles plus on battery alone.
* The Keihin CV 40mm carburetor, used by Harley-Davidson, is widely available and relatively cheap. New ones still made in China, although I would not trust the quality of one of those.
* Keihin CV 40mm carburetor replacement and rebuild parts are cheap and readily available.
* When the float bowl needle valve fails, motor still runs.

Downside:
* Because of the alcohol in the fuel, the float bowl needle valve hardens and needs to be replaced about every five years.
* When the needle valve fails, fuel drains into the motor because the motor leans to the left. This floods the oil with gas. Good indicator though, is it will then puke oil out the oil tank all over the rear of the motorcycle.
* When traveling to sea level, need to up the main jet one larger than used at home, at 4800 feet. Motor still runs, just way lean. Compensate by leaving the enricher out a bit if the jet has not been replaced.
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Jespo_m2
Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2020 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent justifications for carb conversion!! You covered many aspects I haven’t thought of! Great post!! Here’s a picture of an 18 year old X1 fuel pump.


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Akbuell
Posted on Monday, February 17, 2020 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well all righty, then.

One problem discovered. Now to check the integrity of the fuel lines, all the way to the fuel injection rail. And would be reasonable to replace the fuel filter.
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