| Author | Message | ||
     Mike_lee |
searched for this but not sure what to actually call it... when I kill the ignition(s1w),the carb sometimes coughs a bit. jets are 45/185 with an xl needle, forcewinder and V&H. Could it be the small crack in the header? Which will get fixed when I'm off next week because I have to remove it from the bike. When I do this, I should get new exhaust gaskets correct? Also, this is when the exhaust studs will break? would it help to soak them with some blaster a few times before I attempt removal? mike | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You'll want some new gaskets, there's a better set to get, but I can't remember which ones. There's a square gasket and a tapered gasket. Look around on here to see which one is the better one. There's also a good chance a stud/some studs will break. Mine look really rough so I've resisted pulling my header off until I know I have the time to deal with some broken studs. Definitely spray them with something, PB blaster if you have it, but Kroil seems to be the big favorite around here. Spray them and let them sit for a day first. I do remember reading about the same coughing issue after shutting your bike down at some point. I don't remember what the answer was though. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Thanks man... I did see that Lance has the tapered gaskets and will order 4 cuz I think I may put the kt exhaust on there in its place. its a bit louder but its much stronger. sacrifices ya know? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
haha I'm working on putting my stock exhaust back on, but it'll be tough because these bikes don't really have their full personality if they're not making all that noise. I'd leave it as is if my ears were better. | ||
| Screamer |
Idle speed and base ignition timing can also impact "switch-off" run on and cough back. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I try to keep the idle at 1k. Never checked the timing though. Thank you | ||
| No_sprk |
"dieseling" is usually caused by several issues.. 1. vacuum leak 2. very lean mixture, hot shut off 3. timing 4. a combo of any of these  | ||
| Mike_lee |
me no like leaks. I guess if I wanted easy, idve gotten a Honda  | ||
| Oldog |
for some reason even the FI bikes do this when cold, (cough) | ||
| Mike_lee |
It doesnt really diesel or run on after i kill the ignition. Just a quick cough or two. It seems to be after its warm. Although ive never started it and killed it right away. Ill have to try this. There could very well be a vac leak. I noticed the piece that connects the two cylinders and the carb on the other end was moving when i mounted the carb. Ill spray some brake cleaner around it when i get back down there and see what transpires. | ||
| Oldog |
Mike dumb question here, you are installing a bracket to hold the carb?, The intake manifold has to float the cylinders grow as they get hot. my bike has had the cough since new. not huge if its once or twice then nothing. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I do have an internal breather bracket installed. it came with the kit. I had this kit on the s1 and it didn't cough at all. this leads me to believe that its something else... I have 9 days off after today at 230pm. ill get to the bottom of this :-) | ||
| Lasbuell |
Just an FYI when messing with exhaust studs, bolts and or nuts the best way to handle this is the following. Start the bike/car (what ever you are wrenching on) get it up to operating temp then shut it off. Get some gloves and as soon as it cools enough for your to work on it go for it. It works like a charm. I pulled heads on a car years ago and an old mechanic I knew told me this. Cold I couldn't get a few to budge I then ran it up to temp and they came off like butter. I'd soak it with what ever liquid wrench ya have but heating them up with the motor works best. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I will try this. thanks  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or just use one of the handheld LP/propane torches...spot heat, less likely to burn the mechanic  | ||
| Mike_lee |
More good advice, thanks Rat. When installing the gaskets, they need to be seated correct? Jim makes a special tool but to save some cash, couldnt a socket with a rubber mallet be used? Is it even necessary? Wont tightening the bolts evenly achieve the same result? | ||
| Mike_lee |
So i got the kt exhaust off the s1 and on the s1w. Didnt break any studs either  One of the studs came out, which is fine, at least it didnt break. I thought i read up enough but apparently i missed the part where i was to add some copper silicone on the gaskets. Is this a big deal if i didnt? I noticed this when i was looking up torque specs. I tightened down the four bolts until they were snug and started the bike and let it warm up then tightened them a hair more. Im a little leary about tightening these bolts as i know im not outta the woods yet. Just to clarify, these studs dont get locktite, correct? I will do this for the first five cycles then check periodically. Thanks for all the advice | ||
| No_sprk |
for the exhaust gaskets, i use a bearing race install tool, i found one that fits the tapered ex gaskets perfectly. tap em in without using every swear word in the book. i havent used copper RTV, you shouldnt need to. i would NOT put loctite on the studs, if anything id use anti-seize depending on where you live. im in california so we dont usually have problems like that. also buy NEW nuts whenever you install exhaust so the "locking thread" works. theyre one time use | ||
| Mike_lee |
Ya..i got new nuts. Hahah But i only ordered 2. 4 gaskets, 4 new clips and 2 bolts? Not sure wtf i was thinkin. Ill swing by the local dealer tomorrow and grab some more and install them before i start torquing stuff down. Ill most likely see if they have a new stud when i get new bolts. On the stud that came out, should i put anything on those threads? Locktite? Anti-seize? Those nuts only get 6-8 ft lbs if im not mistaken. | ||
| No_sprk |
couldnt hurt to put anti-seize on them. not sure if thats OK. metal "welding" can happen between two different types. like steel and aluminum. i see ARP makes stainless studs for harleys. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Gettin there.....  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Is that the Metmachex oil tank, or something custom made? Great job getting those header bolts off. I'm dreading that job someday. I don't expect mine to go as well. The bike is looking great, although it's practically begging for an X1 swingarm.  | ||
| Mike_lee |
Thanks man.... Im not sure...it looks like the metmachex but theres no label that ive seen. It holds an extra qt. Thats all i know. I think the current exhaust set up is temporary. As much as i like the kt, its burning my shin somethin fierce. Didnt notice this on the s1. Unless that rear cylinder is runnin lean? Intake gasket? Gona tear the ssr2 apart and make sure all the innerds are intact then swap it back once the header is welded. It cracked at the twisted mount at front of motor. There was also the z bracket as well as the v&h u bracket which i thought was a no-no. The x1 arm is on the list. Prob a winter project | ||
| Upthemaiden |
What's the normal bracket on your V&H? I know my aluminum SSR uses the U-bracket, but yours has the strap, is that still how it's mounted or is it made to bolt onto the normal Z-bracket? That's odd it's burning your shin with the ceramic coating. Maybe try putting a heat shield on it? I know my stock header will roast my shin if I don't have the heat shield on it. I see bikes without them and have no clue how people do it. My swingarm took a while, but that's because I was doing a few other things at the same time so I pulled everything apart. I've heard of people swapping theirs in a couple hours if that's all they're doing. Looking at your bike though, you're probably gonna need to spend a little time polishing the whole thing up so it matches the rest of your bike. I was able to through the ratty dirty one on my bike and it blended right in haha. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Theres the u bracket that attaches to the strap on the can and the z bracket attached to the u bracket. I read thats not a good idea. The ssr2 u bracket should attach directly to the motor. Those mount on the bottom that hold what looks like a 1” rubber bushing inside of ears that are part of the case. There are two and one is maybe an inch forward of the other. Im sure you have the same set up and its probably done right. There was a thread in the kv about it. I think spiderman was the one that said not to use both brackets. Gona replace the intake seals just to make sure. Im not sure why its as hot as it is. The motor amd frame are the same as the s1, correct? Even foot peg location shouldnt be different. Or is it? Ill most likely get the swingarm powder coated black or polish it if i decide to swap to the pm wheels. I had mentioned a heat shield to kevin @ drummer. He said he could make one but would need the header there. Not sure which route im going to take yet but i do think ill try and get the ssr2 as back to new as possible as run that on the s1w. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You're correct, same bushings on the engine case, I just wasn't sure what the bracket arrangement was since the mount on the aluminum cans is just a welded horizontal plate. I found the thread in the KV, it sounds like the only time people used both brackets is when they installed it incorrectly. Same exact frame, same engine aside from the slightly different heads. I'm not sure if the change to the heads is enough to make a difference to the heat in the exhaust? That's gonna turn out to be one seriously expensive heat shield if you have to mail the full header there. I wonder if you could just lay some fiberglass on that part of the exhaust, cut it to the shape you want, and mail that to him to make a copy of. |
