| Author | Message | ||
     Sbaugz |
I would like to keep this simple. Look for a build/ restoration thread separately. With this thread, please just post a simple reply with a dollar amount of what you think this bike is worth AS IT SITS currently. This will help me determine what to pay my brother-in-law, who is selling it to me. I want to make a fair transaction. | ||
| Sbaugz |
about the bike: 1998 Buell S1W. It has some history and comes with provenance. It was ordered by Dave Ferrato for motorcycle performance magazine. My brother-in-law purchased it from Dave in 2003/2004-ish Looks like it was sold to him with around 3000 miles. It now has 4200 miles on it. I have a copy of the magazine article and bill of sale, along with some cool sales brochures and catalogs. Fast forward to 2018. I picked it up from his barn, where it has been sitting for a better part of a decade. For sure hasn't been run in at least 5-6 years. The good: -somewhat rare bike -comes with factory race kit -aero seat -manta tank -carbon hugger -rearsets and race pegs The bad: -sitting in a barn for a decade. It was covered in bird shit. Pretty dirty, to say the least. -tires are dry rotten -battery is toast -hasn't been started or maintained in 5-6 years, at least. -second recalled shock is leaking (its not the WP shock) -rear brakes rusty and locked -front brakes pretty rusty but free -bubbled decals on tank -tank, petcock, and carbs are literally full of thick, white goo - some chips and dings in bodywork, fenders, etc as expected. The Ugly: - literally every metal part is corroded, rusted or pitted to some degree. - lifter covers are rusted - swingarm rusty - kickstand and right headlight mount are extremely rusty. -nearly all the crankcase cover coating is peeled or peeling off. Pictures to follow in next post. So what's it worth as it sits? I still have to get it running. Obviously needs tires, complete brake (and maybe caliper rebuilds), carb rebuild, lots of polishing, all fluids changed, etc, etc | ||
| Sbaugz |
here are the pics          | ||
| Sbaugz |
more pics              | ||
| Steveford |
A grand for being such a putz. Where's the air cleaner? That canister mount looks wrong, too. That's quite the project. | ||
| H0gwash |
I was going to say $2500 tops because it looks like chopper fodder, and it does not start. However, if you search our own classifieds, there are 3 98S1Ws with 10K miles between $4000 and $4400 but they are IMMACULATE and they start and they are done. | ||
| Sbaugz |
Air filter was removed at time of pics It includes the race kit carbon fiber air box and KN filter element | ||
| Gmaple |
$1700 the way it sits | ||
| Jolly |
I’d probably walk away from it, youve posted photos that showcase a lot of rust and pitting, there is a lot of work to get this up to a nice bike to own and ride.... $1,000.00, (I’m guilty of overspending to buy, then overspending in both time and parts to “revive”) but be prepared to sink a lot into it, as mentioned above, there are VERY well sorted examples for sale. It’s too bad, that’s a great color combo!!!!, sometimes “barn-finds” are not what they used to be..... As rough as it is, your brother in law ought to hand over the keys with an embarrassed shoulder shrug.... Just my thoughts, I’ve bought one just as rough though....and over-spent and used a lot of parts to make it presentable....and SAFE!!! (Message edited by Jolly on June 17, 2018) | ||
| S1owner |
These bikes sell for 3-4500 in good to excellent shape. With the amount of work you need to put into it I say 1200 or so max. Its pedigree to me would mean very little. | ||
| Oopezoo |
What a shame.......I meant its awesome that you got it, and I hope you can bring it back to life, but thats going to take a lot of $$$ and resources to get her pretty again. All those rusted fasteners and bolts add up quickly. Bottom line, I'd agree in the $1000 range. I know I'm kinda torn at times with the neglected standard S1 I picked up. I traded a car worth about $2500 for it, and have since put about another $1500 or so into it just to make it reliably road worthy. It is now mechanically sound, but it is in no way pretty to look at. That is going to take more $$$ and elbow grease in the coming years. For what I have in it, I could have bought an almost perfect S1W garage queen. I can't say I regret it, as I learned a hell of a lot fixing it up, but it makes no financial sense what so ever. Might as well have bought a boat instead. BUT....If I was in that situation and could get it for $1000....I'd probably have to buy it. I'd strip it down and take my time rebuilding it. Its going to be a hell of a sexy bike once its cleaned up | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I agree that financially, it might be tough if you're only buying it to resell it. It probably wouldn't cost a ton to make it safe and clean it up a little, and sell it for $2800-3000. The only way the work and money is really worth it(and I fully think it would be) is if you plan to keep it. That's the only way you'll enjoy your time in the garage cleaning it up and fixing little things. | ||
| H0gwash |
I didn't realize you took possession of the bike already. I'm thinking it hasn't yet started and you moved by truck or trailer, so IMHO price in the $1K range is very fair for sad looking non starting obscure bike. I think $2K is okay for any non Blast Buell that actually starts. The bike is worth less than family politics is worth. It's unlikely you will find a suitable motor with fewer miles and It would be very cool to keep it in the family. (Message edited by h0gwash on June 18, 2018) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
One thing I see from your closeups that will bite you later: The paint on the footpeg holes is chewed up and will bind the brake pedal, causing it to drag or even lock up. If using the boomerang style shifter, the same thing will happen there. I suggest chasing that paint with a nice flat file so you can tighten the pegs all the way without clamping the controls. That having been said, wicked jealous of you! That thing is in better shape than my X1 and I drove it to work this morning. | ||
| No_sprk |
doesnt look horrible. just make sure you go fast enough so people cant see the detail. i think its worth putting back on the road if its cheap enough. the world is about time/money. is your time worth the money you save? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I see in the other thread you got it - congrats! Get the mechanicals straightened out, and leave the cosmetics. They're only original once, and this one isn't bad at all. | ||
| Mike_lee |
imagine how proud you would be toolin' down the road on that once you get everything straightened out. Its a bit labor intensive ya but, just keep your eye on the prize and itll pay off. good luck man | ||
| Two_seasons |
That rear fender/hugger is very rare. Complete, as is, should keep it in the family. It's worth whatever you'll give him. He will sell it to you cheap. It will cost you at least $2k to replace the bits that are rusty, re-paint the tank/re-decal it, boil the carb, replace calipers/discs, replace rear shock, Race Tech for the forks, tires, isolators, bearings, re-do/replace the seat, speedo/tach work, exhaust may need some attention. drive belt, bronze gear for the oil pump, new headlight bucket/lens, tail light/brake light, turn signals, probably will need new seals throughout If you keep this bike stock, you'll have a rare, unmolested bike that is easy to maintain (harley engine/trans). Every time you ride it will be pure pleasure with the added thumbs-up from cages and bikers everywhere.  | ||
| Sbaugz |
thanks for all the feedback. I definitely want to keep it in the family- and most definitely plan on riding it. Appreciate the feedback from everyone. Keep the posts coming with estimates of what you think its worth currently. Still trying to get a big enough sample size of numbers as far as what its worth. In the meantime, I spent the past several nights working on the bike. New battery is installed. Half the lights aren't working, but if I toggle the ignition switch, they will come off and on. I am guessing some corrosion in the ignition connections, or a faulty ignition switch. Also, the front brake switch didn't work, but I had a spare laying around and now its fine. I probably will go over each and every electrical connection and clean up the contacts. I have noticed tons of corrosion on all the electrical connectors. Other issue occurred when I tried to start it. The starter initially tried to turn over, but then stops and clicks. I put the bike in 5th gear, raised the back end and turned the tires. Fortunately, the motor turns over so its not locked up. Probably some bad connections in the starting circuit somewhere, possibly a bad starter or solenoid. Will troubleshoot that in the upcoming week. Battery is brand new with voltage topped off, so its not that. I plan on getting the electrical bugs worked out, and starting the bike before I invest any more money. Then comes tires, shock, brakes, fluids, isolators, oil pump drive gear, and cosmetics (much later). | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Go after the fuse box. Take them all out one at a time and clean the contacts. My X1 needs that periodically and it hasn't spent a decade in a barn standing still. | ||
| Mike_lee |
You could invest in a direct start button too. Theyre cheap and mount to the back of the starter replacing the plate. My s1 has one. It removes any current loss between the starter and start button, which is the clicking but not starting youre hearing. Have to use it when bike is cold. https://www.jpcycles.com/product/3800353/j-p-cycle s-starter-switch-for-solenoid-housing Link is for reference only. I am not affiliated in any way,shape or form  | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Tell your brother-in-law to write you a check for $500 to take it off his hands. Seriously though, I would go $500 on it, maybe 6. Parts are getting harder and more expensive to find. You will probably not see a positive return on investment. With that said, it has potential.  | ||
| Sbaugz |
another update. I got the bike started. Took the plugs out and poured some sea foam into the cylinders. Let it sit over night, cleaned the starter contacts, and tried the starter button again. This time it fired up. Runs a little rough, but it runs. Now I have to sort out the electrical issues. The brake light, turns signals, horn and stop switch on the front only work intermittently. It seems to work better if I toggle the ignition switch. I am guessing some corrosion or bad contacts are the culprit. Now on to the restoration. Still looking for more input on what its worth. With all the advice I have received, I am thinking in the $1500 range. It still needs front and rear brakes, all fluids changed, tires, shock, and lots of cosmetic TLC. Thank you all. | ||
| Oopezoo |
If you feel ok about spending $1500 on it, then go for it. I wouldn't be disappointed on a deal like that. I know it gets a little dicey when dealing with family when it comes to buying and selling shit that has been sitting around for a decade+. I know if I found something like that in my Sisters barn and inquired about it, she would just hand over the title. Its obviously not wanted or cared about. If it was, it would have been better taken care of. But keeping peace is important......anything over $1500 is you just being a hell of a nice guy. I mean, if it doesn't work out with you buying it, what are their other options? No one else is going to give a damn about the history of it, and from that perspective, its just a corroded S1 that needs a ton of work due to nothing other than neglect. They going to park it back in the shed for another 10 years expecting to retire off of it?? HA I have kind of a screwed up thought process on bike like this. Its easily worth much more than that in parts......which is kind of the breaking point for something like that. Its already going to cost more to rehab it than it will to initially buy it. By the time you are done, you could probably buy a garage queen for what you will have in it.....minus the blood, sweat, and tears. But we all like that sometimes. The process is what really bonds you to a bike sometimes. Its why I never intend to sell my ratty S1. It ain't worth shit, but I put a ton of effort into getting it on the road. If thats your plan, then get it done and get to work. Congrats on getting it started. | ||
| Akbuell |
Great that it is running! For trouble shooting purposes, might do to eliminate the ignition switch from the circuit to confirm where/what issues are really there. Or replace with a known good switch. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Over here in Holland they ask and pay silly money for a S1 https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/motoren/motoren-buell /m1295935566-buell-s1-lightning.html?c=a2384ef0ece 270f44503df9f8598c624&previousPage=lr | ||
| Dino1 |
Why the hell wouldn’t you roll that into your living room and display it like art instead of letting it rot in a barn to get covered in bird poop. | ||
| Lynrd |
Feng shui | ||
| S1owner |
Pull the switches and carefully pull them apart. They are very simple. Dont loose the little spring. These things corrode in good conditions so being where it was not getting switched off and on it’s definitely in need of some scotchbrite! | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Agree, my left hand switch was pretty nasty, corrosion and spiderwebs... I was having a lot of turn signal trouble. I pulled it apart(fairly simply once you get inside so don't get intimidated, once you pull them off the handlebar you're halfway there already), cleaned up all of the contacts, added a little dielectric grease so everything was moving smoothly, and it fixed all of the issues I was having. You said yours worked better after you toggled the ignition so I don't assume it's something as simple as cleaning up the hand controls, but it won't hurt to make sure they're working how they should. |
