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S2forever
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Overfilled engine oil last year, put it to storage without oil change, pulled out yesterday to ride an hour, and oil puking out trans vent. Is it primary oil seal? Or could it be something else?

(Message edited by s2forever on April 30, 2018)
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's common for the oil to seep down into the engine if the bikes sit for a long time(which often results in people dumping more oil into the tank and causing an over flow when the bike is started), but as far as it coming out of the transmission vent, there isn't really any way for oil to get from the crank to the primary aside from that oil seal.

I picked one of those up and planned to replace it since I currently have my primary pulled apart. Mine isn't leaking and I'm hesitant to touch it only to have it start leaking after I put it back together, as a "don't fix what isn't broken" thing, but those seals seem to cause people so many problems I should really just go for it.
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S2forever
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not knowing it might cause such a trouble, I overfilled motor oil.
I want to make sure it is not something else before pulling out the primary.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like from the other thread you're already debating it. The other possible thing to consider, is possibly the crank seal isn't going bad, but while your bike was in storage your fuel leaked through the carb, down into the cylinder, thinned out your oil enough that it started seeping through into the primary. Did you sniff the leaking oil to see if it smells like gas at all? Was your gas tank any lower than when you parked it? Was the petcock turned off?

If that's the case you can usually get away with draining your oil, refilling it with new oil to flush it, draining that, and finally putting in some good oil. The seal doesn't usually need changed, it just gets past because the gas thins out the oil enough to get through. If it's not the gas, I'd assume it's the leaking seal.

If you know you overfilled it last year though, I'd consider just getting the oil level down to where you know it should be, and try running it. It might behave once you get the oil level right. I don't think I'd just to pulling the primary and oil seal as the first step. If you do though... make sure you have all the tools and supplies ready and you should be able to pull that apart and get it back together in one weekend. Mind has stretched out because I keep having to go to the store for one thing after another, and I also have a bad case of project creep that keeps me digging further and further in there.
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S2forever
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I have another problem with carb. It is way too rich at idle even with 40 slow jet and idle screw bottomed. Fuel tank removed for winter.
I will check primary oil level, drain any excess, ride another hour and check any puking. Thanks for input.

(Message edited by s2forever on April 30, 2018)
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S1owner
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wet a rag with the oil. Does it smell of gas? Does it light quick with a flame?
You then have gas in your oil. # always turn of the petcock!
You will need to drain all fluids. Then buy some cheap oil and filters run it through two oil changes just running it enough to lube the system. Drain everything both tines then you can do a real oil change
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gas in the oil. Our Buells lean the wrong way which gives the fuel to go just one way, into the motor! Arg!
Check the float bowl overflow. Mine was blocked.
With the alcohol in the fuel, expect to rebuild the carburetor every other year or so. The alcohol causes the rubber on the float valve to harden. After a time it will not seal. Thankfully JP Cycles has a kit for about $15.00

Concerning motor oil overflowing into the transmission. Yes it can, if enough collects in bottom of the engine, usually while sitting for a long time.
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S2forever
Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This weekend (I have access to my bike on weekend only), as you suggested, I will drain motor oil to normal level and check primary oil.
Very likely it wasn't contaminated with gas as I usually keep petcock off and even I had entire fuel tank off bike this winter.
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S2forever
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 07:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Primary is full of excess fluid. No gasoline. Probably motor oil leaked thru seal. Seems time to replace seal...
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Harleyelf
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't replace that seal soon, you will have oil pumping out of the top of your clutch cable.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The dead give-away is the tranny juice looks dark like engine oil.
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S2forever
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 05:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Done it last weekend. Everything was smooth until the stubborn seal itself. It would not come out. After a few failed tries finally I could take it out. Here is what I did :





Drill a hole on the seal very carefully not to damage ball bearing underneath it. Space between the seal bottom and bearing is less than 1/8 " at most. Thread in a self tapping screw with its tip trimmed off again not to damage bearing. Then grab the screw head with nail puller. The longer the better. You may need a wooden block under the pivot point to protect the primary sealing surface.
Here the point is that you need to take it out very slowly. Whacking will only strip the self-tapped hole. Be gentle and slow. If it would not budge, probably your nail puller is too short. Try a longer one or extend it with a piece of pipe.
Repeat it on the another position on the seal. It should come out easily.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 07:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are seal pullers commercially available, get the one with the small hook and save yourself from the grief of bunging up the job with a screw or two and a pry bar. (It is horrifying to look at it and wonder if you've completely wrecked your bike).
Seriously, harbor freight sells them.
Or a slide hammer and a hook will pull it with ease as well.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad you got yours out easily. First I tried some needle nosed pliers, they were just pulling off little pieces of the metal ring. Then I tried bending a tip of a cheap screwdriver, but eventually it broke at the bend. I finally tried the method you used, but I couldn't get the drill bit to hit the seat at a good angle. The chuck was hitting the end of the crank and forced the tip of the drill bit right near the edge of the metal where it meets the rubber, so every time I'd pull it would just yank it out sideways.... Probably needed a longer drill bit.

I eventually managed to get it with a normal screwdriver and pry it out a little at a time. Popping the new one in was the easy part as someone was kind enough to loan me their installation tool. Mine wasn't leaking yet but I'm glad I got a fresh one in there while my motor is apart.
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S2forever
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I knew I would have bought one. But probably it is quite expensive for just one time use.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Definitely too expensive for one time use. You can find the file online with the details you need to have one made on a 3D printer, if that's something you have access to(I don't). I took detailed measurements of the one I used, figured I could make one and toss it in the tool box someday when I have a lathe I can use.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A screw or two in the old seal is a tried and true method. The only real danger is driving the screw too deeply and hitting the bearing. If you're careful, it's fine.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 01:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://youtu.be/0CXOngEZKjk
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2018 - 03:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a bent tipped standard screw driver I made a "special" tool out of, and since then have found crank seals fairly easy too pull. I heated the end then curled it over, and filed the corners to make it fit the curve of the seal better.
An alternate installation tool can be made from PVC.

I'll try and get pics of the tools posted. I don't like the screw method as my seals did what Williamscottrobertson's did and just tore up, leaving me more mess and no real progress.

I think my total tool expense was less than $10 once I sorted out what I needed and would work best... there was a $7.99 seal puller at Harbor Freight, although I'm not sure it's available any longer.

-Mike
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2018 - 07:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the bend screwdriver would've been effective if I hadn't rushed doing mine. I was actually thinking I probably could've yanked it out easy with one of those bent tip paint can openers, but you know you can never find those when you need them. Post up your pictures when you find them.

Next project is going to be cleaning off that gasket so I can get it all back together. I couldn't find gasket remover anywhere I looked, so I ordered one of the white 3M bristle discs. From what I could see online, they do a good quick job of cleaning gaskets off without damaging anything.
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S2forever
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2018 - 06:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I had known, I would have bought a generic crankshaft seal puller off of ebay. Taking it out without right tool is a pure mess...
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of these day's I'll get those special homemade tool pics up for you guys.

Maybe today, but I've been up since yesterday, so it's gonna wait until a little later, m-kay
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, July 30, 2018 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I found and purchased the 3D printed HD45206 Buell Sprocket Shaft Seal Installer.

* Only $16 for two, and yes, it is plastic, but it worked great without deforming!
* The taller tool is just the right height as no spacer washers were needed.
* It worked! Could not have properly installed the seal without the tool. The seal sits out a bit from flush with the opening. I would have seated the seal too deep without this tool.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784320
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, July 30, 2018 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right! Photos;

This taller one will not need spacers as it is just tall enough to use the stock nut to press the seal in.




Copy of the Harley tool HD45206 Buell Sprocket Shaft Seal Installer;


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S1owner
Posted on Monday, July 30, 2018 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have several of the buellistic custom tool 101’s
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Airbozo
Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW: That's my design for the 3D printed install tool. Had a friend (3E8) print one out for me after having someone send detailed measurements.

Glad people find it useful.

One note:
You will need to _lightly_ sand down the inner and outer edges that come in contact with the seal to remove the ridges from the printing process (how much depends on the quality of the printer). Leave them on the part that does not touch the seal and removing the tool will be easier because your fingers have something to grip.

[img]http://airbozo.com/gallery/_data/i/upload/2016/09/21/20160921230535-a09207da-me.jpg[/img]


(OK, not sure why I can't get the image to display. Used to work).



(Message edited by airbozo on July 31, 2018)
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No_sprk
Posted on Friday, August 03, 2018 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

whats up with that works shock just kidding. nice work with the cats paw
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