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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 15, 2018 » Rear isolators not lining up. « Previous Next »

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Upthemaiden
Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I assumed this would've been a little more common and I could find something when I searched, but I couldn't...

I changed my isolators(along with replaced my swingarm and mounting block) but haven't been able to bolt them in. The holes in the engine block are about 1/8 rear of the holes in the isolators. I don't think anything was messed up in the process because I know I had a hard time getting the bolt out of the isolator on disassembly because it was so far back, and it was also a little tight getting the swingarm pivots out too. My old isolators were shot, the front was also torn and replaced this fall and only had a few rides on it when I parked it, still looks to be in good shape.

So my question... Will all this be resolved by removing the front isolator and remaining tie bars, jockeying the engine forward a quarter inch, bolting on the rear isos, then reinstalling the front isolator?







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S1owner
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had this same issue when I converted to the X1 frame. Had to loosen the front motor mount just like you suggested.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Appreciate it! I was hoping to get the back end bolted back together before pulling apart another area of the bike, but the front isolator was due to come apart some anyway because I picked up one of those shim sleeves to take up the gap in the engine mount and the new skinnier bolt that comes with the new isolator. Hopefully it doesn't turn into a balancing act with the motor being held up by jacks at both ends.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can set the rear end on the ground, after attaching the shock. The frame doesn't hold up the bike back there.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're right! What am I thinking. That'll make it a lot easier to move things around.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't have a rear stand, you can achieve the same sort of stability by sliding a steel rod through the rear axle, and propping it up on a pair of jack stands. Might make it easier to work on.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes! that's a good tip. I used to use a steel rod through the axle before I eventually drilled the swingarm and mounted some spools on it. I'm going to have to drill and tap the aluminum swingarm for them.
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S1owner
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2018 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or flip the pegs upside down and set them on jackstands
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