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Buellcephalus
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2017 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just got my parts in for a Cyclone I traded an AR15 for about a month ago. The previous owner hit a deer with it. I used my Rover, a buddy and some tow straps to pull the forks straight enough to ride it around for a quick function check. It worked for a day or two but it's too dangerous to ride without changing the front end out. Got the parts today including headlight/front rotor/triple tree/front fender and forks. Never owned a Buell but am fairly confident I can trade them out myself as the new (to me) front end came completely assembled taken off a donor bike. I also have a small leak coming from where the clutch cable enters the motor and the rear break is off the rotor and pressed together. Any advice or suggestions would help. Thank you in advance.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ha! That's slightly ironic that he used the bike to hit a deer, then traded it for a gun. I don't know much about guns, I don't think an AR15 is for hunting, but you still get the idea.

Anyway, sounds like you're all set! You'll just need a way to get the front end off of the ground and everything should swap out. It's a good time to consider replacing the front bearings, if not at least give yours a good inspection before you stick them back in.

For the rear brakes you need to try and use something skinny to wedge between the pads and pry them apart, then you can put the brake back on. Just a warning, there's a good chance you'll gouge up the pads in the process, and they may need replaced after. If there's a lip from the metal backing of the brake pad, try to use that to pry them apart, instead of the actual pad surface, then you won't risk damaging them.
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Lynrd
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you have rafters in your garage, a cable come along dangling from same is cheaper and more functional than an expensive bike lift.
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S1owner
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch cable leak is an oring!
Goto the knowledge vault download the 97 S1 manual most everything is the same on your bike
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Most of the clutch cables leak through the outer cable were it's pressed into the metal thread part.
You could put a piece of glue on crimping hose around it to try to stop the oil sweating.
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Buellcephalus
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I appreciate the input guys. I have an old school swing set to use for lifting the front end. The rear break was off when one of my tribe pulled the break lever and the Pistons depressed with no pads in the caliper, tried a c clamp but no joy.
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Buellcephalus
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I appreciate the input guys. I have an old school swing set to use for lifting the front end. The rear break was off when one of my tribe pulled the break lever and the Pistons depressed with no pads in the caliper, tried a c clamp but no joy.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2017 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My clutch cable was leaking when I got my bike, assumed it was the o ring but the plastic cable housing is actually cracked. I wrapped a few layers of electrical tape and it's been perfectly fine for the past year. Worth checking before you pull your cable out. Also those threads on the primary cover are super sensitive. Do NOT screw that cable into the engine too hard.

A far as the rear caliper, it's still the same process without pads, you've gotta get something in there to pry them apart. Be careful not to scratch the outsides of the pistons(meaning don't jam some needle nose pliers in there and try to pull them back). Try a small screwdriver, if you can't get it in, try wedging a knife in there. Don't twist it, just go straight in, and see if it presses enough of a gap to get the screwdriver in. If none of that works, you'll have to open the bleed screw to let the pressure out, then bleed the whole system again. Try to avoid that one as best as you can.
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H0gwash
Posted on Sunday, November 12, 2017 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had leaky clutch cables in my Sportster and Buell, both probably due to overtightening the cable at the primary cover. On the Buell, the leak found its way past the shrink tube solution.

I found a reference on BadWeb about drilling out and retapping the primary cover and setting a steel helicoil in epoxy, and that has worked for me.

I could not find the right size tap and helicoil set at my local hardware stores and had to mail order it. I'm pretty sure it was the $30 set of 5/16" x 24 x 1.5D which shows up on my eBay list in Feb of this year. It has not leaked since.
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