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Gobadgers
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am having a slow oil leak at the base of my rear cylinder (exhaust)push rod tube. I lifted the Retainer to see the o-ring. The o-ring looks to be in ok shape and not pinched, but from my layman's perspective the design looks to be much desired. Is there anything I can do short of putting in a new o-ring and all that entails? Even then, with the design I am not confident that a new o-ring would meet with much better success. I am thinking,i.e. make a thin flat gasket to go around the o-ring under the retainer. Or something to fill the slot/groove under the retainer to add slight pressure to the o-ring seal.

Secondly, does that o-ring look like it is right side up, or upside down? It easily slides up the tube with the Retainer lifted.

Thank you.

(IMO, a one-piece o-ring and gasket to cover the bottom of the retainer would seem to be a better design.)









And a picture of the bike, #149.




(Message edited by gobadgers on September 28, 2017)
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2003xb9r
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 04:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Beautiful S1! You are correct, the pushrod retainers are a poor design. Hammer Performance, NRHS, Zippers etc can sell you one piece billet alloy holders and collapsible covers like the VW air cooled engines use. This is the way to go long term as they do not leak. The seals in your photo look the correct way up by the way but I'd forget the OEM system if I were you.
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Gmaple
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those seals are tough to install. They easily pinch and leak. I found that using a few drops of gorilla glue and then seat them in the holder and let it dry for 24 hours.then apply a little grease and insert the tube. The glue will keep the seal seated and prevent leaking. Of course you have to remove rocker boxes push rods and tubes to start.
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Scott_in_nh
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've had good luck with a billet base from Hammer used with stock pushrod tubes.

They hold and pull down the seals more evenly during install and clamp more firmly and evenly once installed.

I also use blue Viton seals.
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Gobadgers
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2003xb9r - thank you, certainly sounds like the way to go. I have about 1 month left of the riding season before the bike goes into hibernation for the winter, when I would like to take care of this. Logical time too as there are a couple of little things I would like to take care of too, like new rocker gaskets.

Gmaple - Thank you too! When you are talking about a couple of drops of gorilla glue to seat the o-rings, do you mean seating the o-ring in the groove underneath the retainer with the glue? And then later lowering the retainer and 0-ring as one together down? Right now I can raise the o-ring and make it flush with the retainer and seat it in the retainer, but I imagine that the o-ring has been damaged somehow--maybe pinched--and that is causing the lack of a good seal.

I did see on my search last evening that one fellow mentioned that he put a temporary fix in by using a new o-ring and putting a 45 degree cut to the horizon in the 0-ring so that he could fit it around the push rod tube. Not sure of the wisdom of that, but he is counting on the 45 degree cut to compress enough to make a seal. Honestly, when I think of this setup, I cannot imagine it can be much worse than the design already in place.
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Gobadgers
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scott, Thank you for these references too. That billet base from Hammer looks like the way to go. Was there a reason you stayed with the stock push rod tubes other than extra cost?
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Scott_in_nh
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had no need to collapse the tubes, so I saw no reason to spend the extra $120.

They may be easier still to install than just the bases, but after multiple attempts at getting the stock ones to seal, the bases were a breeze!

YMMV
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Jolly
Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive done the zippers push rod tube assemblies and single piece billet bases to all my tubers.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/714295.html?1371451238
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