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Andy350
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I picked up another S1W and I'm doing a bunch of updates to it, including isolators. I picked up a kit from st paul harley which includes part L1501.8 for the front. It looks like the long center bolt in the kit is smaller in diameter than the original one. I remember reading about people drilling out the front isolator to fit the larger bolt. Do I need to do this with my kit? I was under the impression that this is the most up to date isolator....
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Drawkward
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm curious too as I'm about to purchase that isolator kit for my M2.
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Lasbuell
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2000 X1 is this something I need to do?? Which and or where is this "isolator(s)" located?
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Drawkward
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lasbuell

This isn't something you need to do unless your isolator is going bad (rubber degrading visibly or lots of vibration).

I believe this is the same part you'd use but make sure on the website. This is the one that mounts the front head to the frame via the front motor mount.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since people drill them out but its not necessary. I just replaced mine and used the new bolt that came with it. It'd be nice to use the larger bolt but I felt like drilling out the isolator would negate and strength benefits I'd get from the thicker bolt anyway.
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Steveford
Posted on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Find a machinist to make a thin sleeve to make the bolt a snug fit in the motor mount.
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Drawkward
Posted on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why do people drill them out?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So that they can use the original larger diameter bolt.

I wouldn't drill it out. I would be afraid of damaging the rubber-steel connection.
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Blackm2
Posted on Friday, September 29, 2017 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is not necessary at all to drill out.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, September 29, 2017 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Find a machinist to make a thin sleeve to make the bolt a snug fit in the motor mount."

This is the only place where the smaller bolt is in a larger hole, and I agree it would be nice if the upgraded kit came with a small sleeve that fit into the engine mount. If you found a steel tube with a similar outside diameter, you could drill out the inside until the new bolt fit it and slide it in yourself.
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12mpghwy
Posted on Monday, October 09, 2017 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of these sleeves would probably work (I am not sure if the new bolt is 7/16 or 3/8. I am pretty sure the original bolt is 1/2.

1/2 to 7/16:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-to-7-16-REDUCER-INSERT -SPACER-HEIMS-HEIM-JOINTS-/370935106918?_trksid=p2 385738.m2548.l4275

1/2 to 3/8:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-to-3-8-REDUCER-INSERT-SPACER-HEIMS-HEIM-JOINTS/370780605693?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D21de6bf35c84451f8d09e85608b2d4b6%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D370935106918&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

As an aside, does anyone know what the difference is from a functional standpoint between L1501.8 and 16207-79D?

I think I have the 79D part currently mounted (drilled out) and it seems to work fine. I have a L1501.8 on the bench. Is this something that should be changed right away or should I wait for it to fail.

(Message edited by 12mpghwy on October 09, 2017)
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Andy350
Posted on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

12mpghwy, that's a good find! I have already installed the isolator without a spacer so I will see how the vibration is once I get the bike on the road. I also noticed that hammer performance sells a billet front motor mount and you can choose to get it with a 7/16 hole for the new style isolator
http://www.hammerperf.com/xltopend.shtml#billetmot ormounts
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