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Sbaugz
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Allright,
having trouble getting this bike to run properly. It is now mis-firing every so often at around 3000 RPMs. It doesn't have nearly as much power or pull anymore, especially around 2500-3500 RPMs, and the exhaust is really hot.

I am most likely meeting with TwoSeasons who has graciously offered to do a TPS reset later today, and I suppose I will pick his brain too.

Here is a quick summary:
3000 mile S3, new to me. Bike ran really well when I got it two months ago.

I then did the following: oil and primary change to mobil 1, K&N style filter, swapped Borla to stock exhaust, new voltage regulator, new Rockerbox gaskets, new oil pump gear and I swapped from the old 6R12 to the Vrod style 10R12 plugs (per recommendation in the Buell service bulletin).

I will say that when I first got the bike (prior to doing all the "fixes" mentioned above, it was running great).

Now fast forward to today. I did all this work mentioned above and it runs like crap. The exhaust seems much hotter than it previously was. My right leg gets really hot and I didn't notice that before. I also removed the plugs today and noticed some white residue on them. I am assuming its running lean.

My question is: where do I start? I feel like I made too many changes/ fixes at once which may have confused the situation, making it tougher to zero in on the cause.

As mentioned, I will get the TPS reset today. Should I go back to the 6R12 plugs? maybe my timing is off? When I did the oil pump gear swap, I am pretty sure I got all the cam gears lined up. and I also made several hash marks on the timing plate and those are all lined up too.

Appreciate the assistance.





(Message edited by sbaugz on September 02, 2017)
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Cyclone8u
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Intake & exhaust changes will require a change in fuel mapping at a minimum. On that vintage, intake seals would be highly questionable and thwart any fuel mapping attemped. I just changed mine out to James blue seals, difference is night and day, but mine is carburated and jetted properly for my air filter/exhaust changes. Start with a can of carb cleaner spraying around intake seals while running. A change in engine speed will reveal leaking seals/warped flanges, repair that then go to mapping your fuel.
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Cyclone8u
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, in regards to the plugs; I've only run NGK in mine almost since new and heat range will need to be tailored to how good the fuel you have available and environmental conditions. I run DCPR9E in the dog days of summer, DCPR8E in the cooler months and may go as hot as DCPR7E if I do any winter riding (hasn't happened since I bought the Uly).
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Sbaugz
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What you say makes sense, but doesn't it seem strange that changing from a borla to the stock exhaust would make it seemingly run lean?
Also, do you think the air filter would impact the bike that much? I swapped from a stock filter to a K&N filter in the airbox. Its not like I went with a POD style intake with no airbox.

I am thinking I might go back to the Champion RA8HC (the Harley 6r12 equivelant).
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Hootowl
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would start by flashing the fuel map back to stock, or race. You're not going to have much power with the stock exhaust at 2500-3000 rpm. There's a big dip in torque there because of the cams and reversion. Conventional wisdom on x1 and s3 is to keep them above 3k. Aftermarket exhaust generally reduces that dip, so that's likely why you feel that loss of power now that you've put the stock exhaust back on.
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Hootowl
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Someone here can probably give you a good map for the stock exhaust. Stock map is pretty lean, race might be too rich. But at least you'll start with a known quantity if you go back to stock.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd check the timing too. I replaced my cam sensor and had it too far advanced. It ran FAST but hot at the exhaust and more pronounced 3k drop and some skipping at high rpm. I tried to time it with the rear wheel listening for the fuel pump thing and I gave up, ordered a timing plug and put my light on it and timed it. The mark was forward until almost out of view in the window.
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