G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Old School Buell » S3 isolators « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For as much talk as there is about checking your isolators, how prone they are to failure, and replacement procedure, I'm surprised that there isn't more info out there on where to buy replacements... am I missing something? Am I searching for the wrong thing? Google turns up a few old ebay listings, and that's about it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

S1owner
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They are getting hard to find. Best choice is Lance at St Paul HD he goes by Lance651 on here and ebay
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The kind with the steel "Ears" are pretty beefy and last a good long time.
The older style are more prone to fail.
That having been said, My X1's original lasted more than 40,000 miles. I was lucky and seldom rode with a passenger.

The fronts seem to last around 20,000 miles.

I wouldn't worry about it unless you're replacing your belt.
(of if your bike is rattling your teeth out over 3000 RPM!)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, this is coming up because I broke my belt... and when I started to replace it, I realize both side rears were SHOT. Mileage is 36k
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

S1owner
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/262879784252

https://www.ebay.com/itm/262865855886
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting. I believe I was searching for "isolator" specifically. That may have been my problem.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And now, for my next stupid question.

I've started the replacement process. The front of the bike is in a wheel chock, strapped down. The rear of the bike is hanging by the subframe. Nothing supporting the engine (yet). The swingarm bolts are above and behind the holes in the frame, which is the opposite of what I would've expected with the bike hanging like that?! I can pry between the motor and frame and get it to move some, but it would take a considerable amount of force to get them lined up to the point that I could get the bolts out. Is this normal?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hootowl
Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pics?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mnscrounger
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2017 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used this technique last year. It works really well. It does require sacrificing a wrench though.

http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brother_in_buells
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2017 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/798411.html?1480959356
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

89rs1200
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Evening Smoker,

Be sure to use the new isolators with "Wings". Have not had one of those fail yet after 50K miles.

Two procedures to replace the rear isolators: Raise the frame, or compress one of the isolators.

I built and recently used a "Rear Isolator Replacement Tool". Used a large bolt cut to length so it would just fit. Put two nuts on it as one nut was not long enough. Spread only enough to allow the isolator to come out!!

Service Bulletin B-016B has the best instructions. Find this or a manual. Must hoist the tail to take nearly all the weight off the back tire.

Found Service Bulletin B-016B
http://www.ukbeg.com/downloads/files/techbulletins /Isolators96-00.pdf

Use anti-seize on the washer and bolt head, Loctite on threads. Use a marker and draw a line across the rubber. If it moves into an angle/curve, you know the isolator has moved.

Torque for the new Torx style bolt is 62-70 Ft Lb. Hmmm. Maint. Manual states red Loctite and 100-110 Ft Lb for the older allen head bolts.

Be patient and DO NOT CROSS THREAD!!! These are fine thread bolts, so ensure they go in absolutely straight!!

Try these links for more replacement information;
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/103797.html?1114832200
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/25024.html
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/204038.html
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/207322.html


NOTE: If raising the frame, one end of the front and back turnbuckles must be released or the frame will not move properly. Raise the back of the motor by putting a block of wood between the muffler and the shock to use a jack on.

The isolators must have slight compression when installed. If there is no compression, a single fender washer between the motor mount and metal side of the isolator should be enough. See this link;
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/103797.html?1114832200
}
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess I wasn't clear enough... I understand the process of 'spreading' the frame to remove the isolators. But I can't even get to the bolts to remove them.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

S1owner
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a similar issue
Run a strong ratchet strap behind the pivot block in front the swing arm attach to the frame on top as far forward as possible. Do the same on the under side which is harder do not attach to the motor. Ratchet gently and it will pull the frame back and motor forwards.
Note you will most likely need to disconnect the front motor mount and tie bar.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

89rs1200
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For this work, I have always used an engine hoist to raise the back of the bike, and a jack under the back of the motor. Gives good control to line-up the motor mount to the screw hole in the engine swingarm mount. Takes patience and time.

Agree with S1owner, except for removing the front motor mount.
Shock needs to be removed from the front motor mount or from the swing-arm. There are choices, but I personally would not remove the front motor mount.

I use engine hoist a lot, like for removing the front or rear wheel.

(Message edited by 89rs1200 on March 21, 2017)


(Message edited by 89rs1200 on March 21, 2017)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mnscrounger
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

using the "scott free technique I was able to replace the isolators without undoing the front mount. I did have a bear of a time getting the isolator mount bolts out of the pivot shaft though.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smoker
Posted on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. Got it. I just had to walk away from it for a few days and then look at it with fresh eyes lol. I didn't do anything with the front mount. As with anything, I'm sure the next time (if there is a next time), it would be much easier, and I definitely feel like I have a better understanding of the bike than I did before.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration