| Author | Message | ||
     Egagnon086 |
So several things, I got a pic of the gear, looks ok to me, but im ordering the new one.  Also I've read that the cam cover gasket changed at somepoint, I have a gasket but not sure if its correct, can anyone verify?  also when I removed the shock reservoir I noticed this "broken looking" bracket. Any idea what it is?  | ||
| S1owner |
Change to the bronze gear No idea on gaskets Thats the front shock mount bracket. It apears to have been modified. There are two shock legnths for tubers each requires a diffrent front bracket fir proper ride height. Altering this bracket will change the ride height. Or the po replaced the shock with the diffrent legnth and modified the bracket. Or they wanted to change the ride hieght. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
it looks like it's a piece of sheet metal that's bolted on with the bolt that holds the shock. (maybe it was a bracket to clamp the shock reservoir) And to me it does not look like the shock mount is modified! So you tell us And did you had a look all around the oil pump drive gear? They wear uneven most of the time. | ||
| 1313 |
The "broken looking" bracket is actually part of the chin fairing bracket. That particular version looks to be the latest, greatest part made out of (as I think Abe coined it) 'super steel'. Honestly I would expect someone might have found it easier cut the bracket rather than go through the necessary safety precautions to remove the chin fairing bracket from the front shock mount if they didn't want to run a chin fairing. If that version chin fairing bracket actually broke from normal use I'd be awfully surprised. Probably TMI, but what's TMI amongst Buellers? 1313 | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Thanks guys, My new bronze gear from Hammer perf. will be here Saturday. Yeah the cut bracket thing is just there not doing anything, other than being sharp and cutting my gloves up. Any idea if the cam cover gasket is correct for an 01? it was in a gasket kit that came with the bike. | ||
| 1313 |
Gasket info | ||
| Reepicheep |
The gear looks bronze, but I think it is some fancy alloy. Maybe beryllium copper. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_copper | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I ended up getting this one after talking with some other sportster folks, on the XL forum. It says its bronze. http://www.hammerperf.com/xllubrication.shtml Thanks for the info 1313, looks like I have the correct gasket. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Any annony's (or metallurgists) want to weigh in on what the factory "gold gear" is made of? It's pretty bright for bronze. | ||
| S1owner |
Bronze is a very generic term. Within it can be any percentage of the combined materials to make up the whole. If the advertised it as what the make up really is it would probably self destruct most of our brains! | ||
| Odd |
I was told new cam cam cover gasket will fit older bikes but a old cam gasket in a new bike will cut the oil flow. Yours looks like a new style. But I would double check | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I thought that bronze color was Titanium Nitride or some other candy coating. Does a magnet stick to the "bronze" gear? Just so you know, the oil pump drive gear thing isn't an issue in all bikes. Bad ones seem to crap out between 10,000 and 25,000 miles. Personally, I found out about the issue when my bike already had almost 40,000 so I didn't bother with it. I rolled the dice and so far no explosions at over 90,000 miles. It leaks every single thing it can but it's still running strongly. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
My X1 gear was getting grooved up at around 5k. I didnt use the meganut. I think I just guessed and used some other tool!  (Message edited by mmmi_grad on January 28, 2017) | ||
| Lakes |
my stock 2000 m2 oil pump drive still looks ok 100,000k ( 60,000 m ) | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Do you have to remove all the cam gears to get this drive gear out or just the pinion in front? Will it clear the big cam gear for the rear cyl? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I have a step by step sent to me by another badwebber, of course you'll need a Maint manual too. PM me your email and I will forward it to you. | ||
| Jolly |
I've got s job guide I put together for this, let me know if you need it. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I sent it to him David. Wasn't sure if you were going to see his post. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
So it looks from that write up that all the gears need to come out. Was afraid of that. Also does the cam cover gasket need any sealer or anything? Like rtv? (Message edited by egagnon086 on January 29, 2017) | ||
| 651lance |
No RTV......... The RTV can come loose in the cam cove area and get into the oil pump. use the OEM gasket and they won't leak. | ||
| Jolly |
It sounds "intimidating", but follow that job guide and your service manual and you will be surprised how easy the job is. | ||
| Reepicheep |
WhiteBuell did a good job of chasing down the issue with the oil pump drive gear. He had me convinced. I can't remember if the case machining or the oil pump machining was the real problem, but he fixed it by machining the oil pump (which could have been fixing it, or matching it's wrongness to the wrongness of his cases to make it right). It's true that not all eat them. And it's pretty easy to drop the oil pump on a tuber or an XB and inspect it. Just make sure you bump the motor over a few times so you see both sides, when they wear they wear unevenly. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Don't know for sure ,but not all the cam gears need to come out. Well on the xb engine at least! And about the oil pump alignment ,i got a salvaged 04 xb12s that had eaten the gear pretty good (30.000km) Had to mill 1.5mm off the oil pump housing to align it better with the crank/drive gear. On my own 04 xb12s with 28.000km the gear looked like new all around! There is some up and down play in the oil pumps ,so for checking the alignment you have to lift the gear from oil pump with your finger and have a good look. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
While you are down there the clutch needs changed around 25k and the engine sproket gasket is sure to be hard now and about to start leaking oil into the primary. The new clutch cables are plastic coated and I have a muller clutch ramp so my clutch feels really nice now. Thats all engine work I have had to do to mine at about 35k now. It WANT a 1250 kit or new pistons. I think compression spec are on the low side. Not necessary though and still a highway screamer. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
The bike only has ~8K miles, The clutch looks and feels fine. This all started from trying to fix all these dang leaks. Besides I haven't pulled "that" side of the motor just the cam side. I'm going to be putting on this thing together this evening in the garage, since I finally got the "bronze gear". The old steel gear looks the same all around, There is a shiny area at the "Root" of the gear teeth, but it is even all the way around. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
So I did have to pull the gears to do this. I got everything back in, I just want to make sure this looks good to someone. Too me it looks like the manual. Can someone verify please..  Id also like to say anyone wanting to do this that the hammer performance gear and pinion holder worked great. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I say your good to go! | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Alright folks, I cant ge the bike to start now. I put everything together and it turns over and sputters. Then dies. So I'm assuming I put the mechanical bits back correctly. During reassembly I did touch the wrench to the frame while connecting the battery, got a few sparks there. Would that blow a fuse or relay? Or fry the ecu? How would I check the ecu? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's unlikely that you damaged anything other than the wrench. (Get a stubby 10mm!) Recheck your timing cup/sensor. Remember that it's depending upon that for the squirt of gas as well as spark. You waited a good healthy time for the lifters to bleed down, right? | ||
| Reepicheep |
+1 on timing. And +1 on not hurting anything but the wrench when shorting to frame. I did that several times on the M2, it just spot welded the frame, wrench, and battery terminals. Doh. |
