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Super_dooper
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Guys,

I just recently picked up a 1998 Buell M2.

I noticed it had a leak from the front fork drain bolt , was going to replace the crush washer at the same time. Went down to the local dealer and they don't carry that particular part number any more.

Just wondering if one of you knowledgeable folk would know the spec of that washer (Thickness and OD) I'll see whether I can get one online?

Thanks
SD
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got one in the garage, I'll measure it this evening.
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651lance
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The part number is 7708Y. Its still available and retail is $1.50 ea.
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Jayvee
Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, anyway, I measure the washer, the label on it from American Sport Bike says Washer, copper.
The OD = .509, the ID = .309, the ring is .100 wide, the thickness is .040".
I checked my Harbor Freight Copper Washer Assortment, nothing like it, but the closest one, with a much wider ring, also had a thickness of .040". The Buell plastic envelop is labeled 7708Y, the part name is "Washer". Looks pretty generic, compared to a spark plug crush washer, for example.
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Oddalloy
Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Super... You might try an old 2-Stroke mechanic's trick for re-using/salvaging copper gaskets by annealing them which softens them up. It doesn't always work but it's worth a try. Hold the existing washer in a pair of pliers and heat-it-up (propane torch, kitchen gas stove burner, etc.) until it starts to get cherry-red and then plunge it into a glass of cold water. It won't fix surface gouges if it's all chewed up, but it should soften it up enough that it will re-seal.
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Super_dooper
Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks a bunch guys,

I'll see what kind of washers I can find locally with those specs. If not I'll try what Oddalloy suggested.
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Resinears
Posted on Friday, January 20, 2017 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want to anneal the existing washer, don't quench it in water!! Working metal makes it hard. To soften it, heat it to cherry, then let it cool slowly.
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Super_dooper
Posted on Friday, January 20, 2017 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK good to know Resinears.
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Jayvee
Posted on Friday, January 20, 2017 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought that sounded backwards, I had to look it up. Copper can be either quenched or slow cooled with the same annealing effect, it says.
Ferrous metals go like you said, quench for hard and slow for soft. Only copper, brass, and silver are good either way.
"I did not know that..."
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