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Tigermann
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A few months ago a Craigslist ad for a S2T in Los Osos, about 4.5 hours from me in So Cal. 8,200 original miles, looked all original in the pictures, asking $3,550. Then member Rocket88 posted in the overall Old School Section asking about recall shocks – I realized he was talking about the same bike as it had the WP shock still on it. Anyway, he passed, then the price came down to $3,250.

I talked to the guy and negotiated $2,900 and ran up there last Sunday and grabbed it. The poor thing spent the last few months outside under a tarp, a few blocks from the ocean – another 6 months and would have turned to a rust bucket. Owner said the bike spent the first 15 years with a collector (probably never returned to a dealership), then he died, owner #2 got it , then passed it to this owner, both of which just wanted a Harley and didn’t know what they had.

Here's the rescue and roadtrip....


S2T Found



S2T Found 2



S2T Found 3



S2T Found 4



S2T Found 5


At least the roadside attractions were fun


S2T Found 6
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Tigermann
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK a little more info....

The good;
• 49 state bike #241 of 398 (what’s it doing in California?) with 8,200 original miles
• Engine starts and runs like a new bike
• Bike is absolutely original - looks like no recalls done (probably no service either) and I think even has the original tires (Dunlop sportmax 205s), the rear completely bald – doesn’t look like anything’s been touched since factory
• No modifications other than a Riffle taller screen, even has the original fairing bags

The Bad;
• No Documentation at all – just a pink, owner’s manual and one set of keys
• Looks like the rear isolators are toast (bolts way above center on the side plate holes)
• Rear fairing screens missing (already got new ones – just need to figure out how they attach)
• Only 1 OEM turn signal survived (going to go with XB smoke units)
• Got home and replaced the tall Riffle touring windscreen with a used OEM I had, but one of the front holes doesn’t line up??
• Needs new tires for sure
• Need a good cleanup of the oxidation that just started here and there


S2T Home 1



S2T Home 2



S2T Home 3



S2T Home 4



S2T Found 5



S2T Home 6



S2T Home 7
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Lornce
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice catch.

How much work will it take to bring it back?
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Lornce
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We posted at the same time!

Apart from a little scuffing, that thing looks like new!
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Phelan
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe that is proper location for the isolator bolt. IIRC, the bolt would be cwnter or below center if the isolator was bad.
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Tigermann
Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2016 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Phelan

I wasn't sure - didn't see any tears but just didn't look right with the bolt off-center - I guess I still don't understand how that rear system works.

I see the swingarm mounts within the rear engine mount, and the isolators bolt to that from the outsides, but what keeps them (and the whole assembly) from moving around withing the side plates? Or what holds it all up, for that mater?
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K12pilot
Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2016 - 07:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

VERY NICE!!
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Court
Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2016 - 07:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sweet ...... that will be showroom in no time.

Probably got to CA as the result of some paperwork Dave inadvertently left in a drawer.

Great buy!
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Tigermann
Posted on Monday, November 21, 2016 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, had time to start on a few things last weekend.....

First, some new rubber and upgraded to spring loaded footpegs








Next, later version turn signals (put remaining good OEM ones on the shelf)





Now, first question - are there supposed to be two mounting tabs at the rear of the stock exhaust? I only have one





Second, I bought new screens to replace those missing on the rear fairing - they're different that whats on my '95 S2. And the '95 seem to just be held on by bondo - can that be? What do you guys recommend to mount these to the '96?







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1313
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bought new screens to replace those missing on the rear fairing - they're different that whats on my '95 S2.

As well they should. The '96 screens are different than the '95 screens. The '95 are 'expanded metal' while the '96 are flat sheet. What your pictures show are the OE correct 1996 screens (loose) and 1995 screens (in place on red tail section).

And the '95 seem to just be held on by bondo - can that be?

I don't recall exactly what was used, but it's possible that it was simply bondo/body filler.

What do you guys recommend to mount these to the '96?

If I recall correctly, 2 part epoxy of some sort was used to install the '96 screens.

Great job saving the S2T and I hope my input helps,
1313
P.S. Rear exhaust should have 2 straps.
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1313
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 06:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can you please post some closer pics of the side isolators (looking into the bore, and side views from the front if possible)?

I would expect the bolt to be 'below center' with good isolators. But closer inspection is needed to be definitive.

SWEET S2T!
1313
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Court
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>I don't recall exactly what was used, but it's possible that it was simply bondo/body filler.

You recall correctly . . . as I recall.

I have a couple new 1995 fairings . . . I can look.

I used to have some sheets of screens and no clue where they are. They can to use in packages, like posters, and the sheets were like2' x 2' and the screens were snap-outs . . like model car parts.

Steve S was the king of those and I thought about seeing what he did with all the piles of leftovers.
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Tigermann
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Brankin/Court,

Yeah, the 95 screens look like they were cut out of a larger sheet of expanded metal - I was assuming epoxy for the new ones but wasn't sure.

On the muffler, should I just add a second rear "strap" bracket or go with the later Z bracket I've seen someone do in another post? I see both available on eBay.

Next Issue - Rear Isolators. Neither looks ripped and left looks in place, but I can see the right side one is definitely off its locator pin and doesn't even seem to be touching the sideplate. Do I just remove the side plate and re-locate correctly or replace while its all apart? (I have two spare new ones from American Sport Bike I got with the '95)

And I still don't understand, the front isolator has a bold going through it but the side plates just "squeeze" against the rear isolaters? - Nothing else holds the rear of the engine/swingarm assembly to the rear of the frame?

Thanks for the help!







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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I believe that is proper location for the isolator bolt. IIRC, the bolt would be cwnter or below center if the isolator was bad."

The frame pushes down on the outside of the isolator. The bolt should appear to be at the bottom of the frame opening. As the isolator sags or tears, the bolt appears to move up towards the top of the opening.

Also, the picture above is a dead giveaway : )
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Johnod
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Isn't that the isolator locater pin sticking out below the isolator in the last pic?

That's not right if so.

Also have you got a source for those fairing screens please?

(Message edited by johnod on November 22, 2016)
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Tigermann
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Johnod,

Yes, isolator has come off the locator pin - what do you recommend?

The rear fairing screens are P/N M1050.8 - I just typed it into eBay - one seller has them listed for $8.30 each right now
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Johnod
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the screen tip, bought them.

There are guys here with far more experience than me who will pipe in I'm sure, but...

You'll have to remove isolator plates, to see what the problem is , torn isolators or improperly installed plates. You'll need to suspend rear of bike to remove the weight from wheel/tire,before you remove plates.

Then you'll see what the problem is, and go from there.
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1313
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the muffler, should I just add a second rear "strap" bracket or go with the later Z bracket I've seen someone do in another post?

Honestly, I don't know about the compatibility of the Z bracket with the S2 muffler, so I'll just throw this out there as conversation. On the S2, the muffler has a Z-bracket welded on it - which are the tabs that the muffler mount straps attach to. The later tubers kind of reversed the situation, using the Z-bracket in place of the mount straps and having a bracket that went around the muffler that basically ended up having 2 tabs sticking up which mated to the Z-bracket. Maybe the Z-bracket will work with the S2 muffler that already has Z-bracket mounts welded to it, or maybe it won't, I don't know and I haven't seen the thread you referred to.

Do I just remove the side plate and re-locate correctly or replace while its all apart?

That's the beauty of an S2 (and RSS, RS, etc...)! See next answer for a little further clarification.

And I still don't understand, the front isolator has a bold going through it but the side plates just "squeeze" against the rear isolaters? - Nothing else holds the rear of the engine/swingarm assembly to the rear of the frame?

All that's holding the frame to the engine (or the engine in the frame if you prefer to look at it that way) are:
- 1 front isolator
- 2 side siolators
- 3 tie bars (4 tie bars on select later tubers)

Yes, that is it! Well, outside of a ground strap, wiring, oil lines, and other not-so-rigid components.

One tie bar is at the front attached to the engine near the oil filter. One tie bar is at the center of the V near the top of the engine (bolted through a spacer to the engine mount). The 3rd tie bar is attached to the swingarm mount block. There will be some freedom of movement when one side plate is removed, but it should be limited enough that you should be able to get away with removing only one side plate to inspect/replace the isolator. Even if there is enough movement for the other side plate to move away from it's isolator, it should be easy enough to put it back in place before reassembling the inspected side's isolator.

Outside of having to remove the left side plate in order to easily remove the primary cover, the S2 is likely the easiest tuber to work on.

That picture of the right side isolator looks to me like it's got all kinds of nasty going on. Hopefully it doesn't and all goes smoothly. But - if not - you did mention that you have a spare set.

Enjoy becoming one with your S2T!
1313
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Thunderrat
Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I'm curious. What
s the availability of the isolators for the S2. Are they different than the FXR rear isolators?

Thanks..............ted
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 06:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is how my rear hanger is. Would this work for you.
Two stainless clamps and two stainless mounts

[URL=http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/s1owner/media/The%20ValHala/E8B03B53-2392-4BBF-8DAD-345EC2934FEF_zpsd3ht2lhh.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/s1owner/The%20ValHala/E8B03B53-2392-4BBF-8DAD-345EC2934FEF_zpsd3ht2lhh.jpg[/IMG][/URL]



(Message edited by S1owner on November 23, 2016)
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 06:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Nothing else holds the rear of the engine/swingarm assembly to the rear of the frame?"

The frame isn't supporting the rear end of the engine/transmission/swingarm...it simply sits on top of those things; they hold up the frame. The rear isolators dampen the vibration transmitted to your butt through the frame. The tie bars locate it side to side. The side plates aren't really squeezing the isolators (they do a bit) in an effort to hold themselves in place; the isolators are captured by the plates, and bolted to the swingarm mount, so they really can't move...no squeezing necessary.
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Johnod
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The first time I removed the body work and gas tank, I was kind of amazed, and came to this conclusion.

It's not an engine bolted to a motorcycle, but a motorcycle bolted to an engine.
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Tigermann
Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2016 - 01:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, a little more taken care of....

Got a second muffler strap (it was about 1/4 longer than the one on the bike, so I had to elongate one hole, then mounted it with a spacer to insure no stress on the muffler.


Muffler 1


Then I noticed the battery strap was bent and loose, and the cover was rusting up - so sanded / painted / baked the cover and carefully straitened the bracket (still has the sticker!) - cleaned the battery, and put everything back together with new locknut.





Next, I checked the air cleaner - found one of the breather bolts had broken off sometime in the past and they just unscrewed it out a little and clamped the hose to the threads.





So I can't find breather bolts exactly like the OEM ones, part number now takes you the Evo Twin units, which seem a little shorter - guess they'll work but if anyone has an OEM breather bolt the want to sell....





The fiberglass backing plate doesn't look too bad - I bought 2-part marine epoxy to glue the rear fairing screens to the tail section, and I guess I'll try to clean up the cracks on the back plate and fix with the same stuff?







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Tigermann
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2017 - 12:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finally got time to work on her. First up was to glue in the rear screens. I bought 2-part marine epoxy (for aluminum to fiberglass bonding)


S2T 1


Then held the screens in place while epoxy sets






I have a feeling the original screens were glued in place before the license bracket was molded in .... almost impossible to get in there and remove the old glue and epoxy the new ones in place









That done, I got a good used OEM windscreen, left side mirror (original was badly scratched), and new clutch cover (also scratched).

Then new tires - I tried to stick with original, but since Dunlop D205s are no longer available, went with Dunlop Sportmax II.....here's my poor-man's front lift





Found the front brake in fine condition, but back one down to the metal, so cleaned it up and new pads.

Then luck would have it, found Quicksilver touch-up paint on eBay...and it was still good! go figure





So its about as good as I can get it right now - looks and runs like a dream.









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Sportyeric
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2017 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice score! The new isolators are beefer than the old, which is good. However, they don't clear the downward frame tube. I chopped off a bit of rubber and, IIRC, a bit of the metal plate to allow clearance.

Not sure what luck others have had, but I scored a low mileage 96 two years ago and found that the rubber seals were shot at the crank and the forks. And the headgasket blew within a hundred miles. Considering the bike had sat unused for 5 years at a time, I'm not surprised (or disappointed in the purchase) but I have grown gun-shy of low mileage old-timers. I remember wisdom from my elders years ago about the better value in a higher mileage machine that's had the rubber lubricated by use over a garage queen subject to dry-rot. Hope your luck is better but maybe don't roam too far from home for a bit.
Nice score on the paint. I sure could use a bottle but he doesn't seem to have another listed.
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Tigermann
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2017 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Eric,

I agree about old, low mileage bikes - I just plan to baby this one around town, not put too many miles on it (I have another S2 and an XR1200 if I want to do some real riding).
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Oopezoo
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That looks great. Nice work
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Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 - 03:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice save!!!!
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