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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through October 09, 2016 » Tube silencer from off shelf auto parts « Previous Next »

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Mhlunsford
Posted on Monday, September 19, 2016 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

90 bend with reducers and screen and packing material inside.

Much quieter than open pipe.
Pipe
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd be pretty worried about odd fueling (which could lean things out and hurt the motor) as well as the mounting system on that setup (which could shear exhaust studs, which is a PITA to fix, and can ruin a head).

Clever way to get home in a pinch though!
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What the hell is puking oil all over your inspection cover??
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Harleyelf
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shifter rod seal. The circle around mine is not that large, but it does go up as well as down.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks - will have to look at the seal.

I also ordered a 90 bend 2 1/2 dia 2 1/2 radius from summit. Will then see about a bracket. the 4 in dia just to close to my foot.

The d&d and the VandH I had basically tore themselves apart.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can macgyver this,why not make a replica race-can from some quality tube!?
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can just contact Dean Adams he makes awesome cans and they are built right



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Jayvee
Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2016 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's a few sites that sell DIY components. Shouldn't be too hard. But might add up to cost as much as a used muffler.
These guys look good: http://www.coneeng.com/mufflers.html
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2016 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whatever you Macguiver, make sure to put a safety cable on there.
At least one of "our team" has gone down due to pole-vaulting a muffler that came loose in the front.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2016 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good call. I had the baffle come out on my s2 tore a brand new rear tire at 70 on freeway. I was lucky on that one to slide into shoulder with no cars.

I took off the dd as it was vibrating where the muffler connected to where it was ready to drop from the front.

I will not but a muffler on instead I basically put a baffle into the stubby
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Saturday, October 08, 2016 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Version2
Summit racing 2.5 90 bend and connector swivel exhaust hanger and reducers from autozone and steel rivets no baffle

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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, October 08, 2016 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can I ask what you are trying to accomplish?
Just curious?
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Saturday, October 08, 2016 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Run ok and a little quieter than open pipe want it to last a few years.
Spent $$ on cans that just fell apart.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2016 - 03:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is fun doing it on the cheap ,only thing i would make sure is that the pipe is straight and thigh at the front hanger mount ,so no risk on breaking studs.
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S1owner
Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2016 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I get it.
My thoughts take them or leave them.
1- the joints are run backwards the up side pipe should be on the inside of the next oioe not the outside.
2- use a proper clamp that distributes force evenly like the stock ones. The one you are using does not and creates weak points
3 - use a proper hanger like a race shoe the unuversal hanger you have will allow to much movement and possible fatigue in the header, joints, and possibly wear through at the attachment point.

IMO without fixing these you will either wreck the header or it will not achieve your goal.

Remember in every system there has to be a fail point. Where do you want it on a very expensive header or a replaceable muffler.

Here is my example
Used to get pissed wrecking my trail arms on my sled 2 times per year. Was a cheap repair my friend works for polaris so parts are like 125.00. But me I bought a aftermarket iver built sytem and said I wont bend it this year.
Well I did not bend it. Instead I bent the tunnel. Which took me about 60 man hours and 1000 to repair. Thats not even replace just repair.
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