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Burt_macklin_fbi
Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2016 - 12:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's one for ya....
Bike will start fine, idle for 5-10 seconds then stall out. No sputter or coughing, just dies. Will not restart, wil just turn over endlessly UNTIL you cycle the kill switch on and off. Every time you cycle the kill switch it will restart, run for up to 10 seconds then die. Obviously an electrical problem but i have no idea what would be causing it. Ideas? Thanks
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Jim2
Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2016 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure but try swapping the starter and ignition relays. See if the problem changes.
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Bluebueller
Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2016 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You confirmed no physical blockage in fuel line somewhere, or vent tube from tank isn't pinched? Easy to check the easy stuff first...
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Burt_macklin_fbi
Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2016 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No blockages. Swapped the relays noticed that the connections had some corrosion on them but still same problem no matter which relay was where. The strangest part to me is how short it runs. 10 sec max, you would think that it would occasionaly idle for a few minutes. The main thing making me think electrical is the cycling of the kill switch making it start every single time.
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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2016 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure your gas tank vent tube is not blocked
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gee Whiz, as you have describe it why have you not replaced the kill switch. Have you checked the ohm value before and after you cycle the switch?
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gee Whiz, as you have describe it why have you not replaced the kill switch. Have you checked the ohm value before and after you cycle the switch?
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gee Whiz, as you have describe it why have you not replaced the kill switch. Have you checked the ohm value before and after you cycle the switch?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the M2 have a bank angle sensor? I can't remember.
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1313
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the M2 have a bank angle sensor?

This excerpt from the 2002 M2 service manual says yes it did.


M2 BAS


For posterity, the 2001 M2 service manual shows it as well. My suspicion is that it was introduced on the 2001 M2's - due to skip-spark, new ECM, etc...

HTH,
1313
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bank angle sensor was used on 01-02 M2's. 99-00 did not have it. Remove sensor and jumper pins A&B to bypass it DO NOT jumper A&C it will blow your IGN fuse. This will tell you if this may be your problem. Usually if the sensor is bad it will not even try to fire.
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Burt_macklin_fbi
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2016 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks bert, the fact that it starts fine made me doubt that it's the sensor as well. Does anybody know if there is a certain progression to the start cycle that something happens at 10 seconds after start (ex. one relay takes over for another) Other wise I think ill just have to start replacing pieces in the ignition circuit one at a time.
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2016 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not that I know of. Unless your choke is closing before it's warm enough to sustain idle and it dies.

This sounds like it may be a thermal event. Try freeze spray on one electrical component at a time before the 10 seconds is up.
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Bluebueller
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2016 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is this occurring no matter amount of gas in the tank? Has it happened on different occasions or just one "session"?
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Burt_macklin_fbi
Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2016 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its all the time, very disappointed that i cant ride it at all right now since it wont run. Work schedule is always pretty hectic so finding the time to work on it is tough as well so im trying to find the most likely cause so when i do have an hour to mess with it i can hopefully find the problem quickly.

Jim are you referring to something like a co2 canister?
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Jim2
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2016 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've not used any in a motorcycle application but my thought was to test ignition module, timing sensor, ignition kill switch, ECU, etc.

I would use extra care not to spray on hot engine block, or anything that might crack from the temperature difference. i.e electronic components only.

FULL DISCLAIMER: I know nothing. I am not a professional mechanic.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-16 72-10S-/20-2200

P.S. I believe that a simple can of compressed air, like used for cleaning computer keyboards, held upside down will spray cold propellant.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2016 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heck, just a normal air compressor line will blow cold. And blow a lot of it, so that's probably enough to do the same thing as the spray stuff.

I know that trick can work, but it is by no means guaranteed, and I think the number of times it will actually work is really low.

You would be much better off with a cheap digital scope

(Nano, on ebay and amazon)
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Alfau
Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 02:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fuel filter
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

M2's are carbed and the only filer is a plastic screen in the petcock.

Good idea to check though if you're not the original owner, perhaps one was added and has clogged as Alfau suggests...
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Buell_bert
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let us go back to the basics. What is the last thing you did to it before this problem became an issue. In the past this has worked for me. Or the diodes?
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Burt_macklin_fbi
Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So after having a little bit of time i went out and started it today and it ran perfectly fine. I had previously taken fhe relays and diodes out of the block on the underside of the seat and cleaned the terminals up but that didnt fix it. Today started perfect every time and stayed runninf. HOWEVER, after putting on 100 miles today it started randomly losing power then big backfire and studdering. Did this about 4 times on the last 10 miles. Noticed lots of oil coming out of vent hose that comes off of carb. Probably unrelated but weird timing.
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Alfau
Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

started randomly losing power then big backfire and studdering

could have water in the fuel.
check the fuel cap seal.}
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