| Author | Message | ||
     Lake_bueller |
So I was thinking about what to do with my S2 the other day. The paint job sucks. I was going to get it resprayed but some major vet bills have set me back a bit. That got me to thinking about doing a vinyl wrap instead. Any experience on here? | ||
| Hughlysses |
A guy did a simulated carbon fiber wrap on an 1125R a few years ago that looked amazing. You should be able to find that thread in the 1125 forum. I tried to do my airbox and found it to be a LOT harder than it looks! | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
Would hydro dipping work? Has anyone tried it? I've seen some places offer carbon fiber prints. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
The problem with hydrographics is that you need a good base paint to start. I'm not really interested in a pattern/print. I'm thinking of a matte orange. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Maybe that a plasti dip is a option!? | ||
| Spiderman |
if you are looking for matte orange, go plasti dip. But make sure you spray THICK | ||
| Buelliedan |
doing a wrap is easy on a flat surface but absolutely sucks to do on a round one. If you have to pay a pro to install them it would most likley be about the same as a single color paint job. | ||
| Phelan |
The only thing about Plasti-Dip is that it's not very durable. Yes it's better with thickness, but easy to rub off that way too. And gasoline dissolves it quickly. | ||
| Phelan |
I've had success with wrap, but it takes substantial time and patience. Make sure to pull and wrap it over the edges and have it stuck on the under side at least 4-6" for better retention. The closer to the edge you have to cut it, the more likely it will peel up with temperature changes. (Message edited by phelan on May 25, 2016) | ||
| Spiderman |
I plasti dipped my wheels on my ST and it held up till the day it took me 6 hours to remove it. It is very durable, As for gasoline I cannot attest, a google search shows it running from it. As for normal wear and tear it is durable... | ||
| Froggy |
I wrapped some parts on my XB a while back, even on small and flatish pieces like the sides of the chin fairing it was a pain in the ass. If you have the patience and skill it can come out great, but I have neither. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I plasti dipped my wheels on my ST and it held up till the day it took me 6 hours to remove it. I'm guessing it didn't peel right off as advertised? | ||
| S1owner |
Plasti dipped my sons rims on his car. Damaged a rim had to replace it held up pealed iff in one big chunk. I found the key is surface prep and lots of coats! Is this a tank cover or a tank? Just not familar if its a cover no orob if its a tank wont work it will bubble. My friend has his own vynil company on the side and he could wrap anything flawlessly but he has patients and skill ! | ||
| Spiderman |
I'm guessing it didn't peel right off as advertised? It did in spots, bit I didn't do it thick enough which is the key to the peel. Hence my comment on spray it on thick | ||
| Hughlysses |
It did in spots, bit I didn't do it thick enough which is the key to the peel. Hence my comment on spray it on thick Gotcha. I wonder if you could wax the parts first to make the coating easier to peel off, or if that would screw up the whole thing. | ||
| Spiderman |
they sell dip melt for the areas you cannot peel. BUT said dip melt should not be used on plastics | ||
| Jmanscotch |
https://youtu.be/7N5N-AYaENI I've seen the faux plasti-dip carbon fiber job on a coworkers Beamer and it really looks ok, not great but compared to crap paint...I'd prefer it anyday. As other have said, the key to being able to remove the plasti-dip is a in the total layers (4-5 is a minimum) in an effort to make it build thick enough to pull up and stretch vs breaking as it's removed. That video is for CF specifically, but that gentleman has several good tutorials on tips and tricks to working with plasti-dip in many applications. |
