| Author | Message | ||
     M2typhoon |
And my bike is in pieces, has been for some time. I took it apart to do some rebuilding only to find the motor needs a complete tear down and refurbishing. The second I took the cams out and saw they were scored was a tall tail sign to me. So now the bike is resting in storage and I have bought some parts over time. Billet-2-Race bars, factory race pipe, factory dual disk "race only" set-up, CR front fairing and some other non notable odds and ends. The issues I'm having right now is that the factory brake controls don't fit on the B2R bars because the bars are to short. I've been tossing around the idea of going to a radial master set-up for the brakes and clutch when I switch to hydro. My issue is that I have no idea which master to buy as far as size and brand. I know Brembo is the brand to buy but what other alternatives would I have? Has anyone done this to their tuber, specifically with the dual disk set-up? The motor... I don't know where to begin. I know it has to come apart and I'm a mechanic so it's something I can do myself. I would love a 1250 kit but I'm really interested in valve train components but I don't really see any real performance parts for the heads other than the "head services" from Hammer and NHRS. Where are some good places to look for these parts? I don't want to just send the motor out and have what everyone else has. I want my bike to be my bike but I don't want to chop it all to pieces to make it different. I love my M2 with a passion and I don't want to ruin the soul of the bike. I don't want it to flashy, the bike is simple. I want it to be full of small mechanical details that would make me or anyone else stand there with their arms crossed taking it all in. Sorry... I'm long winded... | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I've got some old emails, maybe a link to a discussion regarding radial mc, I'll find and post in a bit. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
From an email discussion with a badwebber from Oz back in 2012, he was working on a dual front brake set up at the time. He was looking at parts through A.S.B. which isn't an option, was also considering sourcing a MC and lever from another model bike. Buellistic had a list of Kawasaki levers that work on tubers, not sure if I have that but it is probably posted in the Knowledge Vault... ...anyway here's some discussion quotes for your starting point info: "The original single disc set up works OK but you seem to have to squeeze pretty hard to get the stopping power which compromises the feedback you get, hence I think the Nissin 17mm Radial MC and Lyndall pads are the way I’m going to go. Searching the web, mainly Badweb I’ve seen a few posts by XB owners that have changed to the radial MC setup and been pleased with power, feel and feedback. It also means that the bike can be returned to stock condition easily. Before I commit to ordering the radial MC I need to work a few things out. 1. Confirm compatibility of Nissin MC with Tuber brake set up. Should be OK, as Al stated the tuber and XBs with the 6 piston callipers use the same stock ½ inch MC." and then later he stated this: "I do like the 'feel' of the twin disc setup and Brembo 16mm axial MC gives. The MC and lever once again look at first glance to be similar to the original Buell ones." I'll try and find the pics he sent. edit: nevermind the pics, they won't be of any use to you, just a pic of the left side front wheel with dual brake set-up. I filed off casting lines and polished a lot of the stock parts such as brake pedal, shift linkage, upper and lower triple clamps and some other misc part for that fit and refinement I wanted from my M2. An XB rear brake line and switch + non stock pads will improve the refinement of your back brake's feel, but the Brembo four pot rear is the way to go if you want more power. (Message edited by littlebuggles on May 20, 2016) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Oh, and Jim (Firemanjim) at JTS Performance is probably a good resource for info on setting up your 1250 kit if you can get ahold of him. He did Preybird1's tuning after pb1 had the kit installed by NHRS a few years back. PB1 had some extremely high (for a tuber) hp numbers. He said it's affected the everyday rideability of his X1 a bit, he rides a lot more aggressively than I do, so I have stayed stock on my bike... if I were to up the displacement I'd stay as close to stock cams as possible because I love the torque and don't care to rev out the motor as it only goes to 7.2K anyway. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Looks like it was Ausx1er who I was chatting with about that, he's been on another thread recently, so hopefully he can provide you with more specific info in the brakes if you need it. | ||
| Purpony |
most of the XB guys that stick with the stock ZTL 6 pot that upgrade to a radial master use a 17mm ~ 5/8" GSXR. The XB guys with ZTL2 8 pots use the 19mm ~ 3/4" GSXR radial. Both are Nissin. If you look at this cart is give the breakdown of # of pistons and master sizes  | ||
| M2typhoon |
Does anyone know how to source performance valve train parts such as springs, valves, retainers...etc? Is it possible to use valve train from other sources like the automotive world? I know there's a lot of factors involved like pushrod lengths and so on. Looking to use titanium retainers and keepers with some beehive springs. | ||
| S1owner |
Phelan can help with that | ||
| Phelan |
AV&V, Kibblewhite, Ferrea, and S&S sell valvetrain components. The problem is that you really need full machine shop access/tooling to take advantage of the individual parts. Even stock head size aftermarket valves in stock 5/16" stem will not be stock length, and any spring pack you get needs to have the spring heights measured and shimmed or cut accordingly. Harley heads use unique length valves so unless you can measure, cut, groove, and work harden tips, you need to stick to the Harley-compatible offerings from the above brands. | ||
| M2typhoon |
Thanks Phelan, I did know that going in. I used to port and do performance head assembly for a local shop here a while back. I can't remember where any of the parts came from other than rods and pistons. It's been a while and I do have full machine shop access but I'm not really all that happy with HD compatible valves to be honest. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
One of the sneaky things that the XB engines have is the beehive springs with smaller stems. Effectively allowing more air through while being lighter. If you were to go this route, you would then have to change the guides too. I think I read that XB cams are profiled differently too because of this. Beats me how much this would actually help you. You would probably get the most bang/buck by swapping the cams with X1 and pretty much leaving the valves and top end mostly alone. |
