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Ausx1er
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm after a copy of Buellistic's Belt Adjustment 101

I PMed him a while back and more recently but didn't hear back. I've seen that PMs/emails weren't working for a time.

I have just changed the pulleys on my X1 from 29/55 to 29/61 and once I've adjusted the belt correctly I'm good to go.

Buellistic or anyone that has a copy could they please PM me.

Cheers
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Fasted
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Subject: 1 of 2 <100428> "DRIVE" BELT/CHAIN Adjustment BUELL "TUBE FRAME" Classt 101 PAGE 1 of 2
BUELLing

A picture is worth a THOUSAND WORDS !!!

This how you set the BELT(applies to chain also) ADJUSTMENT up ...

CENTER rear axle - CENTER swind arm pivit point - CENTER countershaft sprocket !!!

ZERO slack on the tight spot(yes belts have tight spots just like chains) ...

Once you have the belt set up "CORRECTLY you will "NEVER HAVE TO" adjust the belt
again ...

This may seem to be time consuming, "BUT" would'nt you like to do it right the first time ???

If you wear out a belt or break a belt, you just put the new belt on and the
belt will be in perfect adjustment ...

There will be a point in time where your REAR SPROCKET will wear out and the way you
will know this is the belt will jump teeth which is the same thing that a chain/sprocket will do ...

Just install a new rear sprocket and you are back riding again ...

The OEM Tube Frame belt should be replaced at 50K(it is the same as a SPORSTER 128
[some SPORTSTER MODELs] pully teeth), "BUT" depending on your type of riding the belt
can last much longer ...

Torque the rear axle nut to 68-73 ft.lbs., ONER TIGHTING WILL COMPRESS BEARING
SPACER CAUSING THE WHEEL BEARINGS TO FAIL) ...

If you have more questions feel free to ask ???

THIS is a little time consuming, "BUT" would'nt YOU want to do it as correctly and perfectly
on YOUR bike ???

In BUELLing
LaFayette(aka BUELListic)
Ljenne73c@verizon.net
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Fasted
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLers:


Subject: DRIVE BELT Adjustmet "TUBE FRAME" also Primary Chain("TUBE FRAME" , BLAST, and XB) <100910> 2 of 2




The rest of the story as to "WHY" you adjust the DRIVE BELT this way ...

Is it important to adjust the DRIVE BELT as correctly and perfectly on YOUR bike ???




"DRIVE BELT" ADJUSTMENT("Tube Frame" Models 1986 to 2002)



I'll start out with my usual disclaimer: This is my opinion and not the opinions of BMC or anyone else. There, that's out of the way. "IMHO" this what I think. Every BUELL that I have checked out on the road has had its rear drive belt adjusted TOO TIGHT. Many of them seem fine when checked without a load on them, but as soon as the rider hops on, the belt TIGHTENS RIGHT UP.

Here is the REASONING behind this problem. In an ideal design, the pivot point for the swing arm and the center of the front pulley would be the same point, as in Fig. 1. Then, no matter where the swing arm is in the arch, the distance from the center of the two pulleys is always the same. Fig. 2 shows how a Buell is set up. The swingarm pivot is in between the centers of the two pulleys. On a Buell, the swing arm center is about 1/3 of the total distance away from the front pulley. With this setup, the distance between the pulley centers is always greatest when the three points are in a straight line. The further the swingarm pivot is away from the front pulley, the greater the difference will be between the straight line measurement and upper and lower measurements. What this all boils down to is that the belt tension will tighten up when the three points are in a straight line, which is when you sit on the bike and as the suspension swings up and down the arch.

On a BUELL, the difference in the measurements is enough to make the BELT too tight at the center of the ARC if not adjusted correctly. The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL(1999/2000) recommends 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" of slack with no load on the bike(on the BELT tight spot). So go out to your bike and feel the slack(BELT must be on the TIGHT SPOT to be "CORRECT". "YES" BELTS have a TIGHT SPOT just like "CHAINS".) in the belt with no load. Then lie over the seat to get the bike loaded and feel how the belt has tightened up(even more so when you pack double).
A belt that is too tight will cause the following problems. First will be wear and tear on the belt(it will not last 50K miles). Next will be more chance of belt failure when foreign objects get caught between the belt and pulleys. There is no slack in the belt to make room for the object so something has to give. Tight belts also overload the rear wheel bearing and the output shaft bearing of the transmission. Last would be the effect on the suspension. A tight belt will bind the movement of the swingarm and reduce the effectiveness of the suspension(rough ride packing double). All of these things are bad for your bike.
Here's how I set up the belt tension. ZERO slack(no up and down movement of belt) when the three points(Center of rear axle, swing arm pivot, and countershaft sprocket) are in a straight line. Get the rear wheel off the groung, remove the rear shock bolt and raise the rear axle with a small HYD.jack. This works out to about 2" of slack in the unloaded state. I'm sure that some of you are thinking that the belt will jump over the sprocket teeth( this will only happen if the rear sprocket pully is in need of replacement)due to too much slack. A number of years ago, Jay Hawley(FIRST Grand Po Pa of American Thunderbike Club) was out at E. Troy riding with some BMC test riders. They were showing him some nice local roads. They were also testing the effects of too much slack in the rear dive belts. They had moved the rear wheel all the way forward for maximum slack. Then they rode the hell out of the bikes... Wheelies, hard riding and riding double. No matter what they did, they couldn't make the belt jump. So belt skipping is not a problem(this will only happen if the REAR PULLY is WORN OUT).
IF THE BELT SLIPS(JUMPS TEETH), THAT IS AN INDICATION THE REAR PULLY IS
WORN OUT(it wears out prematurely when the belt is adjusted too tight since it is aluminum alloy !!!
"IMHO" the number of belt failures, rear wheel bearing and transmission bearing failures, and front pulley problems would be reduced by simply ADJUSTING THE DRIVE BELT CORRECTLY!!!
"PRMARY CHAIN"("TUBE FRAME", BLAST, and XB):
The PRIMARY CHAIN should be adjusted to 3/4"(COLD) on the tight spot( FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL 1999/2002 says 3/8" to 1/2" which is TOO TIGHT when the egnine is at operating temperature)!!! The KEY WORDS are 3/4" and CHAIN TIGHT SPOT ... If one can not find the CHAIN TIGHT SPOT all else means nothing ...
THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT BY THE NUMBERS(this also applies to the BLAST P3 as the FACTORY METHOD IS ALSO NOT GOOD ENOUGH) !!!
WITH THIS PROCEDURE THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE PRIMARY INSPECTION COVER(the BLAST does not have an inspectiion cover) !!!
1) Get the rear wheel off the ground("i" us car body stands under the foot pegs) ...
2) Remove the spark plug/plugs(make sure to blow away any FOD(anything that could cause damage it gets into the spak plug holes before removing the spark plugs) ... FOD stands for Foreign Object Damage, that is if it gets into the spark plug holes !!!
3) Rock the rear wheel so the transmission will shift and put transmission in 5th gear ... If you do not do this and try to force it transmission to shift the result will be transmission damage !!!
4) Back the 7/8 inch lock nut on the Primary Shoe Adjuster ...
5) With a 1/4 inch allen wrench back out the adjuster bolt ...
6) Now with the 1/4 inch allen wrench, screw in the adjuster bolt finger tight ...
7) With a Machinest Ruler(any small ruler with 1/16 inch incroments), measure the adjuster bolt lenght from the primary case to the end of the adjuster bolt ... RECORD THIS MEASUREMENT !!!
8) Using the rear tire valve stem as a referance, turn the rear wheel one reveloution ...
9) Repeat setps 5) thru 8) 10 times to get the longest adjuster bolt lenght(REMEMBER TO RECORD THE MEASUREMENTS) ...
10) Now take the longest measurement(this indicates the primary chain tight spot) and add 1/8 inch to it to have the adjuster bolt this long(from the primary case to the end of the adjuster bolt) ... IF YOU CAN NOT FIND THE "TIGHT SPOT" ALL ELSE MEANS NOTHING !!!
11) Holding the primary adjuster bolt still with the 1/4 inch allen wrench, tighten the 7/8 inch lock nut ...
12) Rock the rear wheel and put the transmission back in neutrall ...
13) Put the spark plugs back in(clean the park plug/plugs, regap if necessary, put anitize compound on the spark plug threads, and torque each to 12 foot pounds(the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL says 11 to 18 foot pounds, "BUT" they will stay tight at 12 foot pounds so there is no reason to tighten them more) ... REMEMBER THESE ARE "ALUMINUM ALLOY" HEADS !!!
14) Remove the car body stands if you used them ...
NOTE : The primary chain will now be prefectly adjusted to 3/4 inch chain play on the chain tight spot !!!
The PROOF that you are adjusting the PRIMARY CHAIN TOO TIGHT is how much the primary chain has worn into the plastic on the adjuster shoe !!!
If too tight it can the flywheel assembly moving the pinion shaft oil pump drive gear away from the oil pump gear causing a slight mismatch causing the pinion oil pump drive gear to fail !!!
Excessive heat from the crankshaft main bearing causing the crank shaft oil seal to fail, the alternator(burns out the stator, also voltage regulator !!!
Excessive pressure on the clutch hub(clutch basket) bearing which takes away smooth clutch operation!!!
Transmission does not shift well with transmission maninshaft cocked !!!
"PLUS", decreases the speedometer pick-up problems on BUELLs with the electronic speedometer( ie:excessive metal in the transmission fluid/oil !!!)
Over tightening,not using the correct "TORQUE" on axle nuts(front and rear) compresses the soft wheel bearing spacer causing the wheel bearings on BUELLs to "FAIL" ... This is extremely important on the "BLAST" P3 Model ...
TRANSMISSION OIL with the bike in the up-right position(on level groung) should just come up to the CLUTCH DIAPHGRAM SPRING ...
REMEMBER THIS: "IF" the drive sprocket shaft oil seal goes bad, the oil in the transmission will get into the engine ... That is why "i" run the engne oil SYN3 20W-50 in my tranmiion !!!
This information was PLALAGERIZED from the writings of Jay Hawley(FIRST Grand Po Pa of the American Thunder Bike Club) and up-dated by LaFayette Jenne'(AKA BUELListic)
If you have QUESTIONS, feel free to ask ???
MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!
In BUELLing
LaFayette(aka BUELListic) Ljenne73c@verizon.net
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm guessing you guys didn't see it, but Buellistic is no longer with us:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/780858.html

RIP LaFayette.
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Fasted
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pm me I can pdf one to you
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Fasted
Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is mine invisible?
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S1owner
Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just thought he might want a pdf to print
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Mabrax1
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2021 - 03:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all Buellers ! New to the forum ! Great to be here ; ) And hoping I´m posting correctly, even though its archived !? Will it open or else I will make a new post ! Just bought my first Buell, a X1 2001 2001, last summer. (in 2020)
Im still getting used to it. But very much fin to ride. I just replaced rear tire. Putting it back together I got to that belt tension thing. It was set to ca 25mm slack with bike on sidestand. Is this to tight ? I loosened it to the point I without force can push the belt up to meet the swingarm, like in the photo posted by another here above. But now it feels way too loose. scary loose when on sidestand. I understand from the long post above, if done right the slack should measure ca 2 inches when unloaded. I have no stand to lift my rear other than the one that supports swing, so my question is, what will that be with bike on its own weight ? That is, unloaded 2inch, and on its own weight, on the ground without rider ? This I cannot find anywhere ! Thanx in adv. appreciate newbie help ; )
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Victory
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2021 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The amount of slack is wrong in the book so you have to set it with what you find here. Crazy loose is the adjustment.

If it has no tension it will skip a tooth coming out of the driveway. Just go back and snug it up a little more. If you do snap the stock belt and its easy to do! Buy the XB 2006 belt. Its 128 teeth too and has TECHNOLOGY. It wont break.
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Mabrax1
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2021 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, Thanks Victory.
I will find a way to lift up rear and unload swing, and measure / set slack to about 2 inches. and go from there.
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