| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
I don't see a torque spec for this, is there one? Also I note red Loctite is recommended, Is that correct? I was going to use anti seize. | ||
| Ebutch |
use the Loctite or you will have lots of Trouble !!!!!! And follow shop manual very carefully !!!!!!  | ||
| Jolly |
the instructions are very explicit for how to install...a little bit from memory AS AN EXAMPLE...do not take this as THE STEP, its just an example... clean the threads first..... a drop of oil on the washer and head of bolt (so that no friction between washer and bolt head), Red locktite on the threads, BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET OIL ON THE THREADS. install the bolt to spec torque, back off 1 turn, then re torque, the importance of this step is to get true torque value not a false reading by having dirty threads that induce a friction coefficient to the torque value. don't reuse bolts, buy new ones... its far to critical of a point to risk failure with stressed bolts. yes the bolts are expensive, but damn cheap compared to the time, energy and cost of removing broken bolts at a later date... again, the above steps are from memory not from the manual. | ||
| Jim2 |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B018-263565.pdf I did not use red locktight, I check torque twice a year, Hasn't been a problem. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You also have to absolutely make sure those mating surfaces are clean and flat. The bolts apply force to this surface. It's more the friction applied to the surface that keeps the bike together. Kind of like clutch springs add force to the clutch plates for the friction. The springs aren't strong enough to hold the torque of the engine but the friction from the clutch plates is. You know what I mean? |
