| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
I've just installed a complete new/used rear brake set up, master. caliper, reservoir, lines, etc. Is there a good or easier way to bleed this, it looks like it's going to be problematic. Thanks | ||
| 651lance |
I've done it a couple ways. Fill the reservoir and open the bleeder and let gravity pull the fluid through the system, its slllllooooooowwwwwww. If you can get your hands on a power bleeder that works the best. The big problem is getting the air out of the master and don't pump the master fast, that just adds air the the fluid. Pump the master slow without opening the bleeder until all the bubbles stop coming up. After that then you can start pushing the air out of the lines and caliper. And what ever you do don't shake the brake fluid it the bottle, don't laugh, we see people do it all the time and it fills your fluid with air bubbles and you'll be bleeding it out for days. If you shake it just stop and get a new one for now.  | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks,, yes the master is part I figured is going to be trouble. | ||
| Jolly |
I bought a hand pump... Mightyvac(?) I think it was.... Works perfectly! | ||
| 4speeder |
I replaced the rear master cylinder and caliper on my S2 with Ducati parts and I don't recall any issues with bleeding the assembly. Before I ever put a master cylinder on a car or bike I usually bleed it on the bench first and then install it. Clamp it in a soft jawed vise and wire up the reservoir above it. If you have the line off the bike attach it to the master cylinder and run the other end back into the reservoir and be sure it is submerged in the fluid so no air can get in the system. Slowly pump the piston in and out with a phillips screwdriver that fits the pocket in the piston. After a couple dozen strokes all the air should be out, and then mount it on the bike and pump it to fill the line and the caliper and then bleed the caliper and you should be good to go. Be careful to never let the reservoir run dry or you'll have to do everything over again. You can do the same procedure with the master cylinder mounted on the bike. If you don’t have the line off, and can’t run the end of it back to the reservoir, you can make a fitting and hose for bleeding out of old stuff laying around, or you can buy the cheap plastic bleeding fittings and hose at the auto parts store so you can bench bleed the cylinder. | ||
| Johnod |
4speeder, thanks for that info, sounds like just what I need to do. Re the Duc parts, that is exactly what I've done, won't see if it's any better for months yet though, due to winter. | ||
| Fasted |
if you are going to wrench your own bike, spend the $30-$40 to buy a vacuum bleeder like this, and be done with it. be a hero, loan/rent to your buddies, never worry about wasting your time again....get the right tool for the job...........http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_391 590_391590?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm _medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Brake%20Repair&utm_camp aign=Mityvac&utm_content=33160&ci_src=328768002&ci _sku=33160 | ||
| Johnod |
I've got one, I've just never had much luck with it. | ||
| Jolly |
that's exactly what I used, worked perfectly! | ||
| 4speeder |
I’ve had a Mity-Vac for about 25 years (the old solid brass type) and rarely use it for brake bleeding. I even made a quart jar to go with it for bleeding automotive brake systems. I used it for a while. I still prefer bleeding the systems mechanically so I can feel how everything is working and when the sponginess is out. Vacuum bleeding will not force the pads and shoes out against the rotors and drums either so the pistons are at their full travel. Also many times on a car the bleeders will be clogged with rust and road debris and a vacuum bleeder won’t work. Bleeding with the pedal will give you enough pressure to blow the crud out of the clogged bleeder to get the air out of the lines. Vacuum bleeders work fine most of the time, and when working by yourself on a car they are the berries. If a master cylinder is bled properly on the bench and the lines going to the master cylinder are not allowed to get air in them when you unhook them, most of the time it isn’t even necessary to bleed the system when replacing the master cylinder on a car. Using a pressure bleeder is another option, but I don’t know if that would be more trouble than it’s worth on a motorcycle. | ||
| Johnod |
Bench bled the entire system, seems to have worked. We'll see in a month or three. | ||
| 34nineteen |
I use a large syringe. You can get them for a few bucks. I use a selection of clear tubing from Ace hardware that I adapt to different sizes by slipping the hoses inside or over each other. You can use zip ties on the hoses to prevent air from leaking in under vacuum/compression. Plastic syringes are a few dollars each (and can be reused if you clean them out) and the tubing is less than $.50/ft Mountain bikes use a similar system for bleeding brakes as well, just with much smaller syringes. | ||
| K12pilot |
back bleed w a syringe air likes to go UP, easy peasy, DONE | ||
| Johnod |
I've used the syringe method before, and had good results, but it didn't seem to be doing the job this time for some reason. I dunno??? The bench bleed seems to have solved the problem though. | ||
| S1owner |
I was so frustrated on my last one on the S1 I pulled the whole system hung it in the air and used a bleed gun. That finally worked! | ||
| Lake_bueller |
What K12pilot said^^^^ I've done both vac bleed and reverse syringe bleed. The syringe method works the best for getting clean fluid through the entire system. |
