| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
Re, the above, manual reads, to block under engine with jack, which I understand. It also reads, to hoist the rear end off the ground, this I don't understand why. Seems like it's going to be a lot harder to unbolt stuff with the bike flopping about in the air. Seems a rear stand would work better. So the question is, is it necessary? Thanks | ||
| S2forever |
Last weekend when pulling both top ends, I used a rear stand. No reason to hoist rear end off ground. BTW I am doing the same thunderstorm upgrade this winter as you are. | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks, I'll know who to ask questions then.  | ||
| Phelan |
Rear stand is ideal. Also I know Lance said you don't have to remove the isolator and that correct, but I found it easier to align and install the head and rocker box with the front isolator removed. | ||
| Phelan |
Oh, and don't forget you will have to ream out one (or both, can't remember) of the bolt holes in the front mount, as the Thunderstorm heads (and all tubers after the S2, for that matter) use larger diameter bolts. | ||
| S2forever |
Removing piston wrist pins will require special tool. Either you can buy one or you make one yourself. There is a nice picture in KV section. | ||
| Jolly |
Why a special tool to remove the wrist pin? I've never had to use one on any motor, car or bike, however, I have not pulled a piston on a sportster engine yet... Am I in for a surprise??? | ||
| S2forever |
I have no experience with other motors but found this in KV section: Wrist pin of Sportster piston is short enough to move around rather freely. Moving pin hammers on retaining rings which in turn peen ring groove making opening smaller. When piston is new wrist pin slides in no problem but after use you cannot easily take it out through smaller opening. That is what I have found to my surprise and what I have read in KV section (Message edited by s2forever on January 05, 2016) (Message edited by s2forever on January 05, 2016) | ||
| Blks1l |
I tried to remove the wrist pins on my S1 when freshening up the top end and found that I couldn't easily remove them, I ended up leaving the piston on the connecting rod and just removing the cylinder. Unfortunately since you are doing piston replacement that won't be an option it should remove somewhat easily with the proper tool or a version of it. | ||
| Phelan |
The method I've always used, is to remove the circlips from one side of the motor (cover the spigots first!! Clips can fly easily and you don't want them in the bottom end!), then use either a 1/2" or 3/8" drive extension (can't remember which fits, use the one that is just bigger than the ID of the pin, but smaller than the OD of the wristpin) and a hammer. Have someone hold piston (hands outside the studs so you don't pinch your fingers), and hammer out the wristpin. | ||
| S2forever |
I would not use hammer. "By leverage" force on small end is multiplied a lot(=con rod length divided by flywheel pin radius), it may damage bushing/bearing/pin on big end, which will be quite costly to fix. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Hell no! Don't hammer sideways. The connecting rods don't like that. Use a puller. And heat. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Perusing the KV, Firemanjim disagrees with me on the above statement while Pammy doesn't. Anyway, what I found of use to the OP is this:http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/25842.html with pics of some homemade pullers. | ||
| Phelan |
I should validate my statement in that the holding of the piston and the light force I use with the hammer keeps the rod from moving beyond the regular side to side play. Too much force can obviously cause damage. | ||
| 4speeder |
I made a quicky puller out of drill rod, some flat washers and nuts, and used a plastic tube and plastic spacer to pull my pins out. They both came out easily. A deepwell socket would have worked as well as the plastic tube. I would not recommend pounding on it unless you have the conrod blocked rigidly with a piece of wood or something. I used the same homemade tool to pull the pins back into the new pistons.  | ||
| 4speeder |
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| 4speeder |
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