| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
Getting ready, to do a thunderstorm change on my 96 S2. I have the manual, so have the instructions on how to unbolt everything. But I was looking at things today, once everything is ready to come out, how do I get the heads and cylinders out of the frame? Doesn't look like there is much room in there. | ||
| 651lance |
The easiest way I found is to pull the rear head straight up and out. The front head need to go out the same spot the rear head come out. The front mount can stay on if needed. Remember to support the front of the engine. While you have the cylinders off you should install a drain pigtail kit so your valve train oil returns never leak again. Think about also squaring up your cylinders before reinstalling. | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks, Not sure what you mean by drain pigtail, or squaring cylinders though? | ||
| 651lance |
The pig tail kit go into the bottom of your oil return tube on both your cylinders and keep the oil from ever contacting your gasket.  What we call squaring your cylinders is machining just enough to off the top and bottom of your cylinders to make sure they are both flat. If your heads are used I would do the same with them. To make the heads work better you should really change your cams. Are you using the domed Pistons also? | ||
| Screamer |
I apologize if you already have or know this information. Re-facing the cylinder gasket surfaces should be done after tapping the threads for the pigtails - but before boring or honing (if boring or honing is needed). If significant material is removed during the refacing, you may want to consider measuring/comparing cylinder height (front vs. rear). If minimal material was removed, it likely won't matter on a street-use motor. Lance asked an important question - if you're not using Thunderstorm Pistons or an equivalent domed piston, you'll have to raise the static compression by removing material from the heads or the cylinders. If you have a very early S2, the cylinder base studs may have a ring/shoulder just below the top threaded section of the stud. If you have that type of stud and you're raising compression by removing material rather than a piston change, you'll also need to slightly shorten the (internal thread) head bolt so they don't bottom on the ring before reaching proper clamp load. Hopefully, you're using T-storm pistons and can ignore this info... | ||
| Johnod |
I am using the T storm pistons, as well as a cam update. Stock cams that are from the Tstorm engine. Cylinders have already been honed, so I don't know about the squaring part?? Is this pigtail kit a HD part? Can't seem to find any info, as to what is involved to install or much else. (Message edited by johnod on January 03, 2016) | ||
| 651lance |
The pigtail kit is not from HD. There was small one man operation making them but he past away and now V-Twin is making them. We carry them at our shop. | ||
| 651lance |
You can buy just the tails or the complete install kit. If you have a tap set and a set of long allen wrenches you'll just need the tails. The install is easy, you'll just need to tap the drain return on the bottom of the cylinder (the front one on the front cylinder and the rear on the rear cylinder). The threads should be about 1/2 - 3/4" into the drain port. Clean ALL the metal shaving out of the drain port. Put some blue locktite on the tread of the pigtail and with a long Allen wrench coming it from the top of the port back the pigtail in. Once in no threads should be showing and should be in the port. Now all that should be sticking out is the tube. All you'll need is about 1/2" of the tube sticking out below the cylinder, any extra can be trimmed off. Again clean, clean, and clean. Now you ready to install the gasket and cylinder. The tube can be pushed / bent around a little to line it up with the drain hole in the cases. I hope this help I've done a few of them, its from my foggy memory. I drink to forget. | ||
| Johnod |
So this is a tube that allows the oil to pass through the gasket , but not touch the gasket? Is that correct? It's not a plug, so doesn't restrict oil flow? I drink to forget too, just can't remember what I'm forgetting. (Message edited by johnod on January 03, 2016) | ||
| 651lance |
The oil flows through with out any problems without touching the gasket. I've installed them on a few Buells and EVOs over the years and our shop uses them when they take the cylinders off EVO engines. We've never seen a leak after using them. Well wort the time any money spent. | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks Lance, I just need the tails, I have tools. How do I go about ordering from you? Is there any way of screwing this up and putting them in the wrong place? (Message edited by johnod on January 03, 2016) | ||
| 651lance |
I'll have to check inventory Monday when I get I the shop. The job is in my thinking easy to do. Just remember when you're taping the port the port is at an angle. | ||
| Johnod |
Ok thanks. Here's my email, be easier to contact me. johnmsod@gmail.com | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Like the idea behind this pigtail tubes! Everyday is a good learning day. Thanks for shearing this info! |
