| Author | Message | ||
     Valguard |
So... This happened:  Anyone with a good suggestion on how to get this out? I've got a propane torch, tried heating it. I also gave it some good whacks with a small punch and a hammer. Seems like the best thing would be to weld a bolt to it upside down, or a nut? But I don't have access to a welder. Other ideas? Does this happen because of the weakness of the bolt or a poor quality bit? I used a craftsman bit, but not an impact one, using just a hand driver. Thanks! | ||
| Jolly |
I use a penetrating oil the day before.... Then the day of... Hit it again with the penetrating oil and I use a hand held impact tool by craftsman... And patience..it takes a bit to "break" these free....don't re-use any of them! http://m.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-0 0947641000P | ||
| Valguard |
Oh for sure. I've got new ones ready along with my new front rotor. Thanks for the penetrating oil tip. I'll give em a soak tonight. Does anyone think an easy out would be good here? | ||
| Reepicheep |
You could try a "screw remover", which is kind of like an easy out, but has a head that bites into the surface as opposed to a shaft that goes in a hole. Worst case, it just starts drilling out the screw for you. Typically that will do it, drill far enough down the head that the head separates from the shaft and pops off. Then the rotor will come off, then the tension will be off that screw and it will either thread out with fingertips, or with vise grips on the now exposed shaft. That is probably a loktite red screw though, so use heat to release the threadlocker. | ||
| Jolly |
+1^. I've used that trick as well When things got ugly! Most of my tube frame era Buells have front rotors that I've replaced with "braking wave rotors" so been through this a few times | ||
| 2003xb9r |
You can try a sharp centre or dot punch & make a decent indent on the screw head near the outside edge right about where the yellow dot is in the photo. Then angle the punch in the direction of loosening & keep striking it firmly. Chances are it will break free & undo reasonably easily. I have used this method many times on severely chewed up screws. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Like 2003xb9r suggested It's a very good trick! or you could try it with a torx bit. | ||
| Jolly |
I forgot to add.... (I had a LOT going on)..After you let it sit over night with something like PB blaster penetrating oil, the next morning, hit it again with the oil, then I heat cycle the bolt a few times with one of those blue propane torches.... Heat/cool/heat/cool three or four times.. Then start with the tool of choice... (Message edited by Jolly on November 21, 2015) | ||
| Mmcustoms |
I've welded a extractor to them before I got them out | ||
| S1owner |
Fyi this happens because of the dis similair metals the steel screw and the aluminum wheel react with each other over time. A high grade stainless would help but it will strip easy also. | ||
| Valguard |
Boom.  So, ended up getting the manual impact drive and used my 2.5lb hammer with it. I'd heat the screw up for about 3-4 minutes each with the propane torch I have. Then I'd hammer in a torx bit that was a little too big. Once it was secure in there, I'd get the impact drive and hammer away. Pretty sure one if not both of the torx bits are ruined. Thank God for life-time warranty. So, the new bolts I got are pre-threadlocked with the same yellow locker. Can I heat this up and remove it and use loctite Blue instead? Recommendations? Thanks so much for the help people!!! (Message edited by Valguard on November 21, 2015) | ||
| Steveford |
Run them through a die first to scrape off that thread locker and then use a little bit of Blue Loctite. | ||
| Jolly |
That hammer impact driver has saved me countless times!!!  | ||
| Johnod |
Where did you find new bolts? Thanks | ||
| Valguard |
The new screws I got from HD. Part number 3655A. They were $1 each which seems pretty fair for what you get. They are pan head, longer and torx. The length won't matter as the holes in the rim are much longer than the original screws. The pan head is what I need for the new wave rotor. I'd prefer the torx bit too especially after the above experience. Seems like they will be much less prone to strip. I'm sure they are grade 8 and high quality. They also come with that yellow thread locker pre apllied. Thanks for the tip. I'll run a tap through the rim and the screw through a die to remove the yellow locker. Might even hit them with the torch and wipe in case the die doesn't do the job. Then I'll just use loctite blue. Thanks everyone.  | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks, I guess they won't help me, need the countersunk style. Anyone know of any reason off the shelf grade 8 bolts and lock tight wouldn't work? | ||
| Gobadgers |
Quick question: can you do the heat cycles like you describe to PM rims? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sure! But if it was me, I'd use a heat gun instead of a torch to do it. (The black $9 harbor freight heat guns are cheap and work for a little while, but I've fried two of them in a row now, so find another brand or model). | ||
| 34nineteen |
Ok, I'm confused. You say the bolts in the pic are HD 3655A - pan head? Or you bought pan head bolts, but the pic is of the original flat head bolts? | ||
| Valguard |
The screws in the picture are the stock ones that came with the bike (an S1W). The 3655A screws are not pictured. Let me know if you would like a picture of them posted. | ||
| Screamer |
The disc mounting screws for the PM wheels (AA0508.5CZ) are still available. The screws for Marchesini/Castalloy wheels are obsolete but are a 5/16-18 X 3/4". | ||
| Tony302 |
Screame...that part number for disc mounting screws form the pm wheels, is that for the updated 9 pin disc? | ||
| 1313 |
for the updated 9 pin disc CA0001.Q Or alternatively, online research shows to be 6570Y But back to the AA0508.5CZ Buell part number... AA = American Bolt (just one A would signify a metric bolt) 05 = diameter in 16ths, 5/16" in this case 08 = thread length in 8ths, 8/8" or 1" in this case for fasteners, the '.5CZ' identifies the head style and plating details So the Buell part number for the Marchesini/Castalloy screws would be AA0506.5CZ IMO, I prefer the Buell part number convention over H-D's... 1313 | ||
| Tony302 |
Nice never would i figure that. Thanks for the knowledge their 1313. that updated 9 pin disc mount bolts are those for the pm wheels? |
