| Author | Message | ||
     Tony302 |
looking to do these soon, besides isolators would i need to change anything extra on it?the shop i usually take the bike to said their is a long bolt that could break if its rusted and could complicate the whole job, making it far more expensive or are they just telling me a story here?? | ||
| Tony302 |
I have called 2 shops including jims harley is local to me here and they told me they do not work on buell anymore as soon as I asked about the isolators hahaha. The other shop said they just work on motors (cyclerama)I can understand that.. just hard finding a trustee local shop around here. | ||
| Steveford |
What long bolt? You have an X1 with a removeable side plate, that makes the job so much easier (it still sucks, though). If this is the same shop with the cheap-o battery, you need to take it somewhere else. | ||
| Buellistic |
That is on the SWING ARM and "i" would not have them touch my bike !!! | ||
| Hootowl |
X1s are easy. Remove the tie bar that connects the swing arm mount to the frame and the tie bar that connects the V support to the front of the motor. Remove the isolator bolts. Remove the right hand side plate. The right isolator drops out. Shove the frame to the left. The left isolator drops out. As for getting those bolts out, if they don't come out right away, put some wd40 or similar on them and try again in an hour. I found that the bolts that were the hardest to remove were the side plate bolts. Put some lube on those and let them sit. Try to get the lube in between the bolt head and the plate itself. They tend to stick together, like the bolt has bonded to the powder coating. | ||
| Steveford |
For the sideplate bolts, get a brass drift and give the heads a MANly clout or three with a big hammer before you attempt to remove them. This works real well on brake rotor bolts as well. | ||
| Tony302 |
Buellistic, you know the shop, the same one that messed the adjustment on my clutch on purpose to try to sale me their other services on my m2, over in pinellas park. I was just calling to get a price but he was just yapping about other things. I went to a bike night today talked to another Buller in their and I got wild bills motorcycles, he used to be the Forman on fletchers harley, I'll be taking it to him, I don't have time to work on this bike anymore, I have to hit the road again on friday. | ||
| Buellistic |
Tony302: FYI Dealers are saying the last up-date on TUBE FRAME REAR ISOLATORS becoming a problem to get ??? RIGHT REAR is still available at $96.00 and the LEFT REAR is no longer available or is $18.00 ... The ISOLATORS off the BIG TWIN SOFT TAIL PN 47564-86B (2ea) for $40.00 (their is no RIGHT or LEFT) will get you on the road ... | ||
| Hootowl |
http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/A17021 | ||
| Tony302 |
Buellistic. Big twin isolators are the same??or are those just a alternative? And jyms harley service department they just do not work on them anymore, but at bike night I just found out they don't like to work on anything older then 10yrs. | ||
| Oldog |
Tony302; Inspect the front isolator if it show any significant cracking replace it as well. this also is available from American Sport Bike. Cyclerama is a speed shop. BTW they used to have a 160 hp X1 they explained that the rear and front isos may need changing at the same time or if you have repeated front iso failures check the rear ones, failure to do this can cost you a cylinder head.. AND BTW Cyclerama is about the only place I would have any speed shop work done..... | ||
| Oldog |
There is a LONG bolt in the swing arm that tensions the bearings in the arm, it should not need to be touched, The torks bolts at the isoloator location SUCK get with AL at American Sport Bike and see if he still offers the bolts with his kit, His bolts are BETTER. Check your FSM I thought that the tie bar top center of the motor has to be unhooked too. I have had this apart several times its not difficult. OH and find a new shop.  | ||
| Tony302 |
Already found a new shop, talked to another local buell owner they come highly recommended and have a lot of years experience we shall see how it goes. | ||
| Oldog |
Yes, and if Lafayette recomends them for service work they are probably quite good. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The Allen bolts that I much preferred to the button head torx bolts are no longer available. I found them in the aftermarket, but not with the zinc coating. So the kit we assemble reverted to the Torx bolts that Buell changed to. The torx bolts work OK, some prefer them because the don't hit the isolator walls at large excursions. But that's one reason why I preferred the standard allen bolts in that application, because the bolt head acted like a snubber at large displacements. The other reason is that I just don't really like Torx all that much. In stock, http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/A17021 The picture there still shows the older allen bolts. These work on all 96 and later tubers, EXCEPT S2s. S2's should still use the older HD isolators. Al | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
What years did they use the torx? My 2000 has 1/2" hex. | ||
| Hootowl |
Believe that started in 01. When I upgraded my isolators, I reused the allen bolts. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=175 62&hilit=isolator+bolts&start=15 |
