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Valguard
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2015 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello all! I'll be getting my first Buell tomorrow morning. Just wanted to introduce myself. I'll be getting a 98 S1 Lightning. Not too sure on the miles. I think over 30K? Anything I should lookout for before I drive it home? The guy says it's in tip top shape. Thanks so much! Can't wait. : ]
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 02:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Upgraded primary chain tensioner, new intake seals, tire rot, wheel bearing rumble, brake pads, belt sloppy loose (that's good, otherwise your drive sprocket seal will be shot), new design front isolater, front brake disc mounts not too loose, throttle cables lubed.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 04:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just take it easy and get to know it and enjoy American!
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 04:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, that, too.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure about the 98, but the front exhaust hanger on the tubers was also a source of drama. The upgraded beefy looking "upside down Y thingy" solved the problem.

(This was for my 2000 M2, not sure what system the 98 Lightnings used).
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Valguard
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, got it. And I'm in love. I've only put on 60 miles so far but it's runs great. Plus it has under 18K miles! AND, I'm pretty sure its an S1W! Got it for $2,250 which seems like a great deal.

The heads are defiantly thunderstorm and the VIN on the engine has YS instead of SS. Where is the VIN on the frame? Haven't found it yet so not sure if it matches. Plus, the tank seems like the bigger one, but I guess I'll figure that out when I fill her up.

Pumped. Here's a pic:

98 S1W
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Hybridmomentspass
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

looks good!
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

VIN should be on the steering neck. $2250 for under 18K miles is a great price. Looks good! One other thing to ask about is the oil pump drive gear.



(Message edited by harleyelf on October 10, 2015)
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Valguard
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Harleyelf, I have no idea what that means, haha. I need to get my hands on a manual! I have noticed that when idling, the oil light will flicker on and off. Is this normal or have something to do with what you're talking about?

Also, checked the VIN on the frame and its a match. Sweetcakes.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The drive gear is located under the timing cover but can be changed by pulling the oil pump from below. The design was upgraded in 2001-2002 and the better one will retrofit into older engines. When it fails it sends metal shavings everywhere oil goes. Use the "search" feature and you will find instructions on how to change it and what the good part number is. Don't forget to drain the oil before taking the oil system apart.

You do need a manual, though. We all do. A Sportster manual is a good start. There is a good manual pdf on this site that will get you most of the information you need to get to know your bike better.
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Jolly
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM me, I've got a full step by step job guide that breaks down the steps in the manual on how to do the oil pump drive gear swap... It also walks you through the rocker box gasket upgrades and rocker box cover swap to XB style.

You can inspect the oil pump drive gear by dropping the oil pump but you have to pull the cam cover and cams to actually replace it.... Sounds slightly intimidating but it's actually quite simple with a manual and the job guide I put together!


Nice bike!!
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Johnod
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice looking bike.

Welcome.
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S1owner
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can download the manual from a 97 in th KV
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can inspect the pinion gear for the oil pump by dropping the pump, but you have to remove the cam cover (and therefore at least one rocker box) in order to get it off without risking cam bushing damage, and to get the cover back on at all.

On a tuber with that milage, and a blinking oil pressure light, I would *NOT* run that motor another second without inspecting that pinion gear.
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Andy350
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks nice! What is the headlight setup?
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Alfau
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oil light flickering could be a lot of things.
First check if idle is too low, it should be around 1000 rpm.

Could need the Oil and filter changing, you should do that anyway just to be sure.

Could also be the oil pressure switch located near the oil filter.

New oil pumps are not expensive, they are the heart of any engine and if there is any sign of problems rip it out and replace it with a new one. There was an oil pump update for later models which I would go for.
Probably just the idle though.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A new oil pump will not upgrade the drive gear. Repio and Jolly are quite correct, the cam cover needs to come off to change it. With that low mileage and the fact that it's eighteen years old, think about changing the lifters while you're in there. At some point in time that bike sat for a year or more without being run... and that's what gunks up lifters. Your oil light shouldn't flicker if your idle is above 900 rpm. Thin oil, worn main bearings, worn oil pump, bad sensor unit are all possibilities.
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Alfau
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't just take the cam cover off until you have removed the pushrods first.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/129393.html
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