| Author | Message | ||
     D_adams |
Yes, 304. | ||
| Fxdrydr |
I'm interested! | ||
| D_adams |
I'll probably do these for about $425 + shipping after looking at the other offerings out there. They'll be all 304 stainless, repackable and come with clamps for the mounts. At this time, they will only fit the updated front mount since that's what I have on the bike I've got. I know the supertrapp one is $525 + shipping, the d&d is just under $400, so that's where I'm getting my price point from. The body (muffler section) will probably be about 1" longer than the 1st one I built. | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's going to be a nice alternative for folks who don't have race headers. Very nice. | ||
| D_adams |
Got a pic of the clamp earlier, should work for what I want. I may end up using 2 of them for the end support.  | ||
| D_adams |
Built another one of these yesterday.    | ||
| Buelldualsport |
X1 Muffler Just returning to the Tuber world after a long stint on Ulysses , then a health issue for my wife. What might you fab up as a replacement for the race muffler? Appreciate the input Regards | ||
| D_adams |
Post a pic of what you've got currently. I can probably make a replacement for it, although it will not be an oval one like the factory race can. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
D Running a Vance & Hines right now on the stock header. Looking to replace the stock header with the race header, and the race mufflers are getting harder and harder to find. | ||
| D_adams |
Just need a length from the end of the collector to the farthest rear mounting point on the Z bracket. The pipe above should work with it, I can make them whatever length is required. | ||
| D_adams |
Since the original thread got archived and it's not worth dragging it back out, I'll just post this here. Other than running it in a tumbler for a short while, nothing has been done to these for the finish. Not sure if I'll polish them or leave them as is. The toe pegs are EBR bits that are no longer available, so I'm having some made that will work in a similar fashion. Slotted for some adjustability. All I'm really missing is the link rod for the shifter. Again, the heim joints are EBR bits, they're metric as well. I'll probably find a different source for them soon enough. The bearings in the shifter are 1/2" OD, 5/32" ID and about the same in width. There will be 3 bearings in it. I'm just using a single post for the shifter for now, it may change later on.     | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
3m pad on a grinder will give a nice finish. Heim joints from McMaster Carr or granger. | ||
| Jayvee |
Wow, nice. I can't make it out in the picture, but where the toe peg goes into the adjusting slot, but there should be a raised shoulder sticking into the slot from the footpeg, right? So it's not only the screw taking the load? Like where the footpeg clevis bolts to the frame under the isolator, it has sort of an oval-shaped shoulder that fits into the slot, and the screw tightens to that shoulder. Dang, I don't know the terminology, but the inside end of the toe peg shaped like the inside end bit of the this mount except it can slide inside the adjuster slot (when the bolt is loosened):  | ||
| D_adams |
http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17460  Along with this. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17459  Stock foot peg mount, yes, it has a tab machined for the frame. Just spoke with Al, make sure to loctite the bolts for that so they don't vibrate loose. My intent with the shifter/brake setup pictured above is a complete package eventually and do it for a reasonable price. Either way, that's what is going on my M2. I'll probably go this route as well. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16067  http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16065  | ||
| Hootowl |
I have those pegs on my S2. I like them. | ||
| D_adams |
So, brake side is completed. Used the stock mounts and a set of LSL pegs from American Sport Bike. Toe peg was from EBR, I'll be having all of it made locally soon enough. I like the end result. Now to the shifter side.    | ||
| D_adams |
Missing the connecting rod between the heim joints and the bolt is too long for the main one, but this is close to what I'm after.    | ||
| S1owner |
Dean are you having this part made also?  | ||
| Jayvee |
Beefy ! You're making the mounting bracket too? That is so cool... | ||
| D_adams |
I bought the shifter shaft part from the company that makes them, they're about $25 each I think. Not really worth making them locally unless they buy the broach for doing the splines and it would take a large quantity to justify it. I could probably buy the part from hd, just get the one for an xb of any year. Never checked the price on one, these are pretty nice machined ones. I'm still looking into getting the footpegs and all the other associated hardware made, but the guy's shop just got destroyed by a tornado last weekend. I don't know what his current plans are, although I know he did move some of the more expensive machinery (cnc turret lathe?) to another location temporarily. Bare Knuckle Choppers, the guy does a lot of custom builds and fabricates his own frames. I think I'll be re-designing the mount bracket where the pivot point is so I can use a stripper bolt there and make it a little easier to manufacture. We'll see. Modified the linkage a few weeks ago and promptly forgot to post a pic of it.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Nice piece, but it needs some quality time with you and some sandpaper to round and polish it. And that bolt and washer setup has to go....  | ||
| Fxdrydr |
I like it! I'm definitely in for the whole enchilada for an M2 when they're ready. | ||
| D_adams |
Going to pick up another M2 in a few hours. 10k miles on it, looks to be completely stock. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Nice! Post pictures! | ||
| D_adams |
Pretty clean, mostly unmolested, 10k miles. There's a few things that need fixed, rear tire is mounted backwards, rear shock locking nut is backed out and possibly screwed up. Couple of indicator lights don't work. Otherwise it's pretty decent looking for a 15 year old bike.       | ||
| Reepicheep |
Beautiful! Replace the oil pump pinion gear when you replace the paper rocker box gaskets. | ||
| D_adams |
New choos.   | ||
| D_adams |
So I rode the new one to get it inspected on Monday. On the trip to the DMV, I felt what I'll call a mild "clunk" from the suspension. It was almost like a hard bottoming out from a large bump, but the roads were fairly mild and smooth. Never got up over 45 mph in town, might have been 5-6 miles one way. Suggestions on what to look for? Bike is obviously 15 years old and has 10600 miles on it. The rear shock appears to be the upgraded version. It seems the springs up front are slightly sacked out and it sits a little lower than I thought it should. I've made no adjustments as of yet, so I don't know what the settings are at from the previous owner. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it is from the transmission and happened on your first hard acceleration after a shift into second gear, like the belt jumped a tooth, it's shift dogs (don't panic, tubers have a cartridge transmission). If it was a bump, then your belt is too tight, and you want to get it loose ASAP, or you will crush bearings in either the wheel, or more likely, the 5th gear drive assembly. | ||
| D_adams |
The belt was tight prior to me swapping out the tires. It's got about 1.5" of play now. It happened while rolling, not on the throttle or getting off it, just cruise. Didn't get on the throttle all that hard since it's a new to me bike that I haven't gone over with a fine tooth comb just yet. I only did a basic inspection of it (more thorough than the state inspection by far) but I know there's probably several things that need attention. Possibly the isolators, both front and rear. It seemed like it never really settled down or smoothed out, regardless of the rpm. The single instance of that clunk was about 1/2 way through the ride. |
