| Author | Message | ||
     Paulson |
I traded an '02 VT750DC for an '00 X1. Though I have had to fix a few things over the past year or so, I still feel I got the better deal.  I have been wondering why my rear exhaust header is contacting the frame. I think I have found the reason:   | ||
| Ltbuell |
...definitely tater totted.....i know it will be multi posted......get the updated isolators.LT | ||
| Kalali |
Dead for sure. How many miles on the bike? | ||
| Dannybuell |
do the front isolator at the same time! | ||
| Hootowl |
On the bright side, X1s are easy. Suspend bike by tail section. Remove isolator bolts. Remove side plate. Remove heim joint bars on swingarm and front of engine (by oil filter), shove frame sideways...the left side isolator should fall out. | ||
| Steveford |
Put jack under motor... | ||
| Buellistic |
If you do not know where to put the jack you could crack the case/case's !!! ISOLATORS Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Paulson |
Thanks for all of the pointers! I am reading and can see that the X1 has that frame advantage. The bike has 20K miles on it, but I am certain these failed 8-10K ago (or maybe I got it this way?). Even so, I love this bike.  Buellistic - PM sent. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Holy crap! you will LOVE LOVE this bike once it has actual isolators in there! You might want to replace the front one too. | ||
| Oldog |
double check the front mount bolts. I lost mine after a bout of bad iso's | ||
| Hootowl |
"Remove heim joint bars on swingarm" That should have been "swingarm mount". Jeff | ||
| 89rs1200 |
New rear isolators, with metal "wing" fit all S3s steel or aluminum swing-arm. I built and recently used a "Rear Isolator Replacement Tool". Used a large bolt cut to length so it would just fit. Put two nuts on it as one nut was not long enough. Spread only enough to allow the isolator to come out!! Service Bulletin B-016B has the best instructions. Find this or a manual. Must hoist the tail to take nearly all the weight off the back tire. Found Service Bulletin B-016B http://www.ukbeg.com/downloads/files/techbulletins /Isolators96-00.pdf Use anti-seize on the washer and bolt head, Loctite on threads. Use a marker and draw a line across the rubber. If it moves into an angle/curve, you know the isolator has moved. Torque for the new Torx style bolt is 62-70 Ft Lb. Hmmm. Maint. Manual states red Loctite and 100-110 Ft Lb for the older allen head bolts. Be patient and DO NOT CROSS THREAD!!! These are fine thread bolts, so ensure they go in absolutely straight!! Go to Americansportbike DOT com for the isolators. | ||
| Hootowl |
I would not use red loctite, regardless of what the book calls for. Blue and the correct torque is just fine. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
I must agree with Hootowl. About 100,000 miles on S3s using blue Loctite and not a one bolt coming loose. This is not advise, just a personal agreement. | ||
| S1owner |
I use blue also! | ||
| Hootowl |
If I recall, the bolts that came with the isolator upgrade kit (don't think they come with the isolators unless you buy a kit) had thread locker already on them. I don't remember what color it was, but it may have been red. I don't trust the pre-applied dried on thread lock, so I added a bit of blue. Blue won't let a bolt rattle out, and these things aren't under any sort of immense load, just the weight of the frame and your butt, and they don't rotate in oil like a crank nut (always use red on those!) so...yeah. Blue. | ||
| Steveford |
The washers in that kit should come with a coating of wax to keep them from gripping the rubber (in theory, at least). | ||
| Paulson |
Since I already love this bike, I am excited to find out how much I have been missing when I replace the isolators. | ||
| Paulson |
So I replaced the rear isolators and also the front isolator (it was shot too). This bike handles better and I can even use my mirrors now! That front isolator was a pain to get at. |
