| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
well my bike has been sitting for a whilem the last time a moved it it was fine and now i replaced my levers and now my brake lever is in the BRAKE positon pulled in without actually being pulled in , but brakes r nor on. there r no leaks and the resevior is full... is the any ideas, is my master/ slave cylinder shot thanks | ||
| Two_seasons |
Sounds like pads are hung up. Either on the pad pin(s) or you have enough water in the fluid to seize the puck(s) in the bore. Get a couple of people to help you push it around and see if that helps to free them up. Your rotor may have enough rust on it where the pads are sticking to the rotor. | ||
| 01x1buell |
some thins to look into next weekend i guess. thanks for the info | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or you replaced the lever incorrectly. | ||
| Buellistic |
OIL SCHOOL: Take the cap off the master cylinder, let the bike set over night ... In the morning put the cap back on, if this works, YOU WIN !!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
It won't work. Read the OP - or, try to: it was fine and now i replaced my levers He doesn't have the lever against the plunger properly. Guaranteed. | ||
| 01x1buell |
actually i do have the lever on correctly it is pretty simple thing. maybe i miss spoke in my post the bike was sitting for a while and it was like this before i replaced the levers. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i will try buellistics approach | ||
| Ratbuell |
yeah...your post reads that it was fine...then you replaced the levers...now its not fine. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Grab the caliper with both hands; push it toward the wheel, and pull it away again. Get a plastic pry bar and wedge it between the shoes and the rotor; create some gap. Now apply the brake and release it. See if the wheel will turn. If this doesn't work, take the pads off and push the cylinders into the caliper, then bleed the caliper. If that doesn't work, take the caliper apart and de-crud the bores that the pistons ride in. New seals wouldn't hurt. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you leave the reservoir open the the atmosphere, the brake juice will be contaminated by humidity. In extreme cases, brake fluid will draw in so much water from the air that it will overflow the container. Water in brake fluid = bad Brake fluid on paint = bad | ||
| Hootowl |
The moronic comment about DOT5 fluid and the S2 has been redacted. The author was confused about which topic he was posting under. He has been publically humiliated and thoroughly chastised. (Message edited by hootowl on April 13, 2015) | ||
| Buellistic |
OLD SCHOOL: Change the fluid in both master cylinders once a year for longer caliper life/master cylinder life(this works for your cars/trucks too) ... Works for me as my 97S3T has 111,819.0 miles on it as of the last ride with no problems ... | ||
| Imadog |
I agree with Harleyelf, your front caliper is probably stuck with contamination. Rebuild kits are available from American Sport Bike or www.twinmotorcycles.nl. The work is not that hard, you must be careful not to get brake fluid on any painted surface. After you get you brakes sorted out, bleed the air out of the system and take Buellistic's recommendation and change the fluid in front and back brake systems yearly. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well it was just a stuck caliper , but the bike still rolled so oh well thanks guys . I guess i should have worded it right the first time maybe i was drinking when i typed it. i know i have to change all fluid coming up. thanks again | ||
| Hootowl |
"maybe i was drinking when i typed it" Yeah, I do that a lot too. You can usually tell.  | ||
| 01x1buell |
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