| Author | Message | ||
     Charlies_s1 |
Almost ready to join the frame and motor. My question is are there things you have learned that made it a bit easier and was there anything you forgot and had to go back that I may also forget? The belt is obvious but how about oil lines and wiring? Or other ways of going about it. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. | ||
| Two_seasons |
S.S. on the oil lines. As they age...you know the rest! Is there anyway you can order/procure an connector pin pusher. The reason I ask is I'd be all for rewiring, down to the color code, all wiring to each connector. As wires get old...you know the rest! Best wishes for a great running bike Charlie  | ||
| Hootowl |
Don't forget to put on the belt before you slip the frame on. | ||
| General_ulysses |
I bought a '97 S1 last year. After buying it, I was told the old original design rear motor mounts/isolators were problematic and would eventually fail. They came out with a revised design that was improved. I decided to replace mine, and it turned out to be quite a job. Pretty tough and time consuming, that is. If you have your engine out of the frame now, it would be an ideal time to swap out the rear isolators with new ones while you're at it. That is, assuming the ones you have now aren't the new ones to begin with. Be aware you will have to trim the plastic around the counter sprocket(pulley) cover to make it fit back on though. No big deal, but it is a slight mod that's required. | ||
| Hootowl |
"The belt is obvious" "Don't forget to put on the belt before you slip the frame on." Duh. I guess I no read good  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
One other thing to remember is never forget to install the belt. (Glad I could help) | ||
| Jolly |
Not sure what all you have done to the motor but I would do the following before tucking it into the frame...its a little cramped and getting good access for accurate torque on a few bolts is difficult, now is the perfect time: 1. upper and lower rocker box gaskets / original were paper and either do or will leak 2. xb rocker box cover conversion 3. oil pump drive gear if you are pulling the rocker boxes for gasket upgrade 4. I prefer the collapsible push rod tube assemblies by zippers (sold by NRHS) with stock push rods 5. front motor mount upgrade 6. front exhaust hangar ("Y" style) 7. starter gasket upgrade / old ones were paper and leak 8. silicone the stator plug while the starter is pulled 9. condition of exhaust studs? If they need to be replaced youve got plenty of room right now... just my thoughts.... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Jolly, what makes the collapsible pushrod tubes better. I've considered them but don't know why they are better. | ||
| Jolly |
The base is a one piece billet piece held in place with 2 bolts, instead of two pieces held in place with one bolt each and an alignment pin. The base has two o-rings that it seats against to secure and seal the base. The tube assemblies are spring driven into the base and top for positive pressure against a seal even when the motor "grows" due to heat. They are like the ones on big twins . | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I have the Hammer Performance billet bases. | ||
| Charlies_s1 |
Thanks guys, Motor is ready to go and just need to plan my attack on lowering the frame over it. Would hate to chip the fresh powder coating or scratch the newly polished bits. Thanks again. | ||
| S1owner |
Well my trick that always worked for me loosely install front ISO put rear ISOS into frame put a little lube on the ISO where it will contact the frame you may need a thin putty knife just to get each iso started and then push down on the frame it should slide right in place. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Ken, I'm going to try that trick. How much force does it normally take? | ||
| Charlies_s1 |
Thanks Ken, do you install any of the three solid mount points onto the motor or frame? I am most concerned with having a hard time putting things on after the frame is in place. | ||
| S1owner |
Does not take much force as long as you get the iso lip over the edge at the start with a putty knife ussually I just grab the tail and use my weight nd it slides right in. I always attached the tie bars after get everything in loose first then start tightening. I know others have there ways but this always worked well for me |
