| Author | Message | ||
     Bsanorton |
BUT, when I take a ride and she's warmed up, both start working. I do need to pull in the clutch when cold to start bike when cold & no neutral light. After riding for awhile and the neutral/right turn signal come back I no longer have to pull the clutch in to start as normal. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Wiring short to ground? Diode bad? | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thanks Ft, I can't tell by the schematic, too small for my eyes, but what's common between the right turn signal and neutral light/switch? Anybody know? the left turn signal keeps on working. When I walked into the garage this morning and turned on the ignition it now works fine, but I know it won't last long! | ||
| Two_seasons |
You might have a broken wire inside the wiring loom that goes around the fork stem area. Every time you turn your bars, you're flexing the wiring. Over time this will break the discrete wires, one strand at a time, that is trapped inside the insulation. Pull the tank off, clip a couple of the ty-raps and start running your forefinger and thumb down each one of the wires. I found one like this when my headlight would go out if I turned the bars to the left. Check all your grounds too. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
No similarity that I know of. You may have two unrelated failures simultaneously. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
(Oops! took too long to post  ) >Might very well not have anything in common and just be a coincidence. (Message edited by natexlh1000 on March 27, 2015) | ||
| Lakes |
Have you checked the light globe's are in tight for N & right turn in the dash? | ||
| Akbuell |
I hear you about the schematic. I had to go to reading glasses and a magnifying glass. One thing that can help: one of those clear sheet protectors from the office supply store and a grease pencil. Put the protector over the schematic and trace the circuit you are looking at with the pencil. That way you don't 'lose' the wire you are looking at when it crosses other wires. When done, wipe the sheet clean for reuse. As to you immediate situation, no common sources I know of, per my X-1 diagram, as others have mentioned. The only 2 places in common seem to be the wiring loom as it passes the steering stem, and the connector from the harness to the instrument cluster. Might do to check that connector. One quick check would be to ohm the neutral light switch at the switch. Should have something close to 0.2ohms. If much higher, or if the resistance goes down when warm, the switch is probably going south. Which also explains needing to pull in the clutch to start when the light is out. The turn signal is likely a separate issue, as others have mentioned. The fact that it changes when warm leads me back to the plug-in as a likely source. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| 1313 |
Rich, I sent you a PM. Please make sure you forward (send your reply) as indicated in the PM and I will send you what I got. It ain't your answer, but should help you determine your answer... 1313 | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thank you guys. Will start looking tomorrow. 1313, I don't have a PM from you. you can e-mail me directly at rmayer@comcast.net , thanks again | ||
| 1313 |
1313, I don't have a PM from you. you can e-mail me directly Email sent! |
