| Author | Message | ||
     Buellracer01 |
Hey yall. I've got an 01 x1 Lightning that I'v owned since new. I bought it and over the years did a race intake, D&D full system and race ecu as they all came out. I haven't ridden it much over the past several years because it never is running good. I've got ecmspy and all sensors are good and tps is zero'd. Main thing is that it has a low, rough idle with the adjustment screw at it's maximum setting and it runs so rich it fouls plugs just driving it a couple miles. Any ideas or info greatly appreciated | ||
| Buellracer01 |
just as a side note, I've replaced all of the intake seals and gaskets years ago when this first started happening, had HD shop rezero tps several times (years before ECMSPY). Replaced header gaskets, put in NGK iridium plugs. Except for when it was stock it just never has seem to run right. It was great the 1st year I had it then I went fooling with it and the past 14 years have been rough with barely any riding. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Get ECM Spy and see what your AFV is, suspect it is way high and see that your engine temp readings are normal. | ||
| Hootowl |
A bad engine temp sensor could make it run fat, I think. | ||
| Kalali |
If this all started right after you switched the intake/exhaust/ECM, then your fuel maps need to be adjusted to match the upgrades. As mentioned before, the AFV should be your first clue. The goal is to maintain an AFV value between 95-105. This is assuming sensors are good and the TPS reset procedure was properly done. (Message edited by kalali on January 25, 2015) | ||
| Hootowl |
The d&d was designed to use the race ecm, with an unmodified race map, so no map adjustment should be necessary. | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Ive done some reading and found out the SE exhaust gaskets are recomended with my d&d header, I replaced the stock with fresh stock gaskets when i replaced the exhaust and it's always had a lot of pop on decel that made me think it was leaking so I'll replace those and hope the O2 sensor gets a better reading. My ecm spy said last spring when I checked it that all my sensors seemed to be in spec and I rezero'd the tps again with it. Could an exhaust leak be screwing up my maps that bad? Just in case I plan on putting new head temp sensors in it, I've replaced one that went bad before... Can't remember though, does it have one in each head? | ||
| Buellrobot |
Engine temp sensor is in rear only, if I remember correctly. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Could be a couple of things... ETS http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17035 May want this too... http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16140 O-rings that go around the fuel injectors http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17481 http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17480 O2 Sensor http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16079 easiest way to remove old is to break off the back end, then you can get a socket on it. Good luck figuring it out  | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Alright, I picked up all of those along with new SE exhaust gaskets and new retainers, studs and flanges. Also picked up all of the gaskets and stuff to do my oil pump drive gear. Hope I get this fixed up correct, I'd love to see how it feels running right after all of these years. Another quick question. If I get some xB rocker boxes off of ebay, what else would I need to do the xb rocker box conversion? | ||
| Buellrobot |
Buellracer, please keep us posted on how things go. I've done similar work, trying to ferret out some lag on throttle response and decel popping. My X1 is pretty crisp when cold, but once it warms up it gets less responsive and more poppy. Good luck exorcizing the gremlins. | ||
| Lynrd |
For the XB rocker boxes you'll want 2 PCV valves, 2 Grommets, some hose, a tee, a few hose clamps, and a catch can. I would pick up a six pack as well. You never know who might stop by (Message edited by Lynrd on January 25, 2015) | ||
| Buellracer01 |
LOL! thanks y'all. I will for sure get a 6 pack and keep y'all posted | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Just an update for y'all: I've got the bike torn down, exhaust is off and I'm going to ceramic coat my headers, sad to lose my photite d&d coating but it's starting to rust. When I took it off I inspected the gaskets and they looked as if they were sealed and in place perfectly, I've got the SE gaskets but I may just go with stock gaskets again because they seemed to be sealing very well. On the intake side it was unbelievably difficult to get the different pieces of the intake apart and get it all off the bike! I'm replacing all of the rubber gaskets and fuel injector o rings and coating them all in gasket sealer. I didn't see any damage to the seals where it looked like it would definitely be leaking but from what I've read just being several years old and dry will get them to leaking. Going to replace my oil pump drive gear this week and ceramic coat the exhaust. I'll replace my O2 sensor and head temp sensor and it's connector before I get it all back together. My garage is a mess and my wife hates it but hopefully I'll get this thing to running right. Here's to hoping those intake seals were leaking because I don't know what else it'd be at this point. (Message edited by Buellracer01 on February 09, 2015) | ||
| Buellracer01 |
My biggest hint is that for some reason before I started taking it apart, I had to have the idle control screw set to its max setting just to keep it running and it was only idling then around 1000 rpm. When it was new and stock if I were to screw that in that far it'd be idling at least 2,000 something rpm. Don't know what to make of that. I know the tps was finally properly done to because I got ECM spy in 2013 and did it myself. | ||
| Robertb1958 |
I went through a similar exercise getting my new to me X1 to run well a while back. Finally found that someone had put the wrong (very lean, thrown away!) injectors in it. Go figure? In the process, I wound up with a spare slightly lean (-6%) set of injectors from an X1 via Ebay that I had cleaned and flow tested (276 CC/min @ 3bar). They matched very well. If you could use them, I would swap for a 6 pack of good beer. I wonder if Buell was trying different things? Just does not make sense for 3 X1's to have 3 different injectors, but that is what I found. (Message edited by Robertb1958 on February 10, 2015) | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Wow, thanks for the heads up Robertb1958! I'll get my injectors cleaned and checked to make sure they are flowing enough. If mine aren't doing ok I'll PM you about those injectors you have. | ||
| Buellracer01 |
update: Got the bike torn down, found some small places where there MAY have been an intake leak. I really dressed up everything on the intake tract and have all new gaskets to put it back together. Took my fuel injectors and had them cleaned and flow tested at a place in Houston, both flowed 320/min before and after cleaning but I did manage to get a better looking spray pattern out of them. Got new O rings for them too and some lube for all of my o rings and intake seals to seal it up well. Took my D&D exhaust off the bike and ceramic coated the entire system. When I pulled the headers my intake gaskets looked great with no leaks whatsoever, those stock gaskets did crush into the flow space but just a little. Maybe a 1mm diameter constriction all around but nothing terrible. The one thing I did find was my O2 sensor had a loose connection at the connector under the battery. This is one that I replaced when the original O2 sensor really did go bad, the blinking light on the dash coded it bad several years ago. I tugged the wire to get the connector apart and the wire slid right out. So I'm thinking that the "new" O2 sensor that I put in the bike several years ago never really had that good of a connection. I ordered a new one from Al and it should be here soon. Next up on the agenda is the oil pump drive gear change out and then it all starts going back together. Ive taken some pics and I'll try to figure out how to get them all on here. As usual any comments or suggestions or plain ol' advice is greatly appreciated. | ||
| Dannybuell |
soldering and shrink wrapping is best! | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Got the bike disassembled for oil pump drive gear replacement right now and I was thinking of replacing the head gaskets while I've got it stripped down this far already. Anybody have any insight? I've got the manual but is removing the front and top motor mounts going to drop the motor? Do I need to replace anything else besides the head gaskets once I have the heads off, like o rings or anything else? | ||
| Akbuell |
IIRC, when you undo the motor mounts, the engine does drop, so you will need to support it from below. If you are not going to have head work done, or the head gaskets are not leaking, why replace them? If you do decide to remove the heads, most folks here also remove the cylinders to replace the base gaskets, because they usually start leaking once the heads are untorqued and put back on. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Thank you Akbuell. Problem is that I forgot to check the compression on the motor before I took the rocker boxes off and got it ready for oil pump drive replacement. I haven't really run into any big issues that I thought would be making it run the way it has for so long like an exhaust leak or and intake leak (possible but I think unlikely from what I've seen) and my next thought was maybe it wasn't getting perfect compression. I tried it with a compression checker yesterday with the rockers off, just spinning the back wheel and I was only able to achieve 40 psi in the front cylinder and about 28-30 in the rear. Bike has been making power like it's not running good on one cylinder for a long time. EVERY SINGLE time I remove the spark plugs after it running the front one is black with soot and the rear plug looks perfect light brown. The front plug will eventually foul. It's my only symptom I've been able to consistently show for why it's running bad. My injectors have been in good shape (had them cleaned and flow tested). Just trying to get this thing figured out and running good again | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The funny thing here is that the actual problem could be on the rear cylinder. All of the sensors are on the rear so if something is wrong there, the computer could be overcompensating on the front. All the programming of the CPU makes the assumption that both injectors are flowing the same amount of juice and that the same amount of air is getting in both. Take for instance if the injectors weren't the same. Say if the rear didn't squirt as well as the front. The computer would rejet the AFV til it felt the rear was running nice. The problem would be that the front is now running rich as hell. My personal X1 has always made the front plug look scary lean while the rear looks of course tan and normal. Been like that since new and hasn't blowed up yet... | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Wanted to show yall some pics of how it's been going: Took my exhaust off to sand and ceramic coat with vht  Got the fuell injectors cleaned and flow tested  | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Bought new speedo sensor, O2 sensor and head temp sensors for it. Changed out the oil pump drive gear and at 13,000 miles I was surprised at how good the stock one looked:   | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Here's the present HD apparently left for me   | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Here's how my plugs seem to always look, rear on left front on Right  | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Rear intake valve, the white is paper towel from soaking up carb cleaner I sprayed in there to try and clean the valve stem.  Front intake valve:  | ||
| Buellracer01 |
Here's my cams I got worried about labelled B instead of 15 like my manual says. I started another thread for quick reference because I was so worried about it before I started bolting it all back up  | ||
| Two_seasons |
OK, it's been a year+ now, what was the problem? |
