| Author | Message | ||
     Dammitquikgentry |
Ok might need a clutch and cable any suggestions? Read about the Barnetts and didn't know if any of you have any input. Also looking for a steering dampener. Never had one but if it absorbed some vibes that'd be cool. Anyone have one for sale? Other than the oil pump gear and primary tensioner any other recomendations? Thanks | ||
| S1owner |
replace the steering beerings, replace the rear and front isolators while you have it all off. I have a Barnett kevlar clutch and love it. I use Vinehill usa for cables I make my own and get them in a kit will the throttle cables very easy no special tools. | ||
| Oldog |
Remove the grenade plate from the clutch. While you are in there change out the primary seal. Swing arm bearings too. | ||
| Jolly |
Youre not new to Buells, so most of this you already know, but I post this full list anyway, as others learn from your questions and the answers (just like I do...data mining for smart nuggets!) Tube frame Buell smart list: Some of these are Must do, some should do, some recommended and some just personal preference… 1) Should do: Older front rotor uses 6 buttons to attach to carrier, these are weak and the rotor should be upgraded to either the 9 button carrier found on later years or an aftermarket wave rotor or similar with a better set up…personal preference, American Sport Bike sells ‘Braking” wave rotors that I really like and have on most of my Buells. 2) Must Do: Exhaust mount is an "L" shaped piece of steel and should be upgraded to the "Y" shaped design that is a much better set up. improper exhaust installation leads to a lot of stress at the heads and will either break exhaust studs or the exhaust itself.. update soon! American Sport Bike sells them 3) Should do/Must do: Front motor mount is a "v" style that sets up a vibration in the longer arm, upgrade to a CNC machined mount with grade 9 bolts from American Sport Bike, if this fails you will break a stud off in the head, you have to extract the bolt then possibly repair the threads... I recently repaired stripped threads on my motor using a time-sert...outstanding product! did not have to pull the head to do the work! 4) Must do: Upgrade the primary drive tension foot immediately! The stock ones are far too light weight and when they break...it goes poorly quickly..that hunk of metal gets trapped between the drive chain and the sprockets and it is expensive.... personal experience on that one! 5) Must do: The oil pump drive gear is made from a material that was not "hardened" to high enough spec and WILL fail (the oil pump gears slowly sharpens the teeth on the drive gear then they break off and cause havoc and oil starvation)...you can only guess the damage that does...obvious right? American Sport Bike sells a hardened drive gear... 6) Recommended: Upgrade the rocker box covers to XB style, they are one piece instead of 2 piece so there is one less place to leak and they change the way the motor breaths...much better design! You will also need a catch can... 7) Must do: The stock rocker box gaskets were paper...WTF right? Change them out when you do the rocker box conversion..when you do the oil pump drive gear... 8) Personal preference: The push rod tube assemblies are really kind of a weak design...as long as you are doing the oil pump drive gear, and the XB rocker box conversion, and the rocker box gasket...from personal experience I recommend the collapsible push rod tub assemblies with billet bases sold by zippers performance...they have a much better design for mating against all surfaces with o rings and gaskets... 9) Must do: final drive belt needs to be "scary loose" or it wreaks havoc on the transmission and output shaft bearings and seals.... 10) Must do: Check isolators,, replace as necessary special tools required: 1) primary locking tool American Sport Bike or other source (to remove clutch basket nut) 2) pinion shaft locking tool to change out oil pump drive gear) 3) 28mm socket (main rotor nut) 4) 30mm socket to remove clutch basket nut 5) rocker box wrench (to tighten right rear rocker box cover bolt that is under frame) amazon 6) push rod tool if youre installing collapsible push rod tube assemblies..you "can" do it with a screw driver if you are VERY careful 7) torque wrench one for medium range and one for 150 ft lbs 8) time sert 5/16 x 1inch with 1 inch stainless steele inserts if you or previous owner screwed up the threads on the motor mount bolt mount point 9) bolt extractor from American Sport Bike to remove motor mount bolt in the event that you do have one sheared off...I've never done it but lots have and there is experience here you should reach out to if you have to do the job. don't use an easy out, it will break and then the job is that much harder... all of this can be done with most basic tools and a torque wrench and patience...and a manual....AND help from here! reach out to JeffC if you want a frame brace, he recently had a bunch made and I think he might have had one extra one made, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/727391.html?1389140262 if you are looking for a cool drive arm support/pulley guard, shoot me a note, I just had one designed and I am having about 10 made right now, if you want one, jump on the list.... most importantly...fix the stuff that is a safety issue, then just ride it and enjoy it, learn the bike, connect with it...then make it yours! I also ride moto guzzis and a great quote about guzzis..."whats the best thing a guy can do with this bike...put the tools down and go ride it!" I've learned all of this from the experts here, and some personal experience and its all helped me build 5 tube frame Buells, this is a fantastic forum with dedicated true riders and wrench benders who love to help. (Message edited by Jolly on November 09, 2014) |
