| Author | Message | ||
     Mhlunsford |
I put new seals my intake but I when spray some starter fuild on the intake it is obvious the seals are still leaking a little. Tempted to use permantex. | ||
| Greg_cifu |
Did you lubricate the seals before you put them in or did you do them dry? That type of seal works better and will last longer if you lube it up with some silicone spray or silicone grease before you assemble it. | ||
| Alfau |
Super glue, flood and let it dry. Unproven. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Most use Sil-Glyde and liberally coat the rings. This will keep the rubber supple and allow the intake and heads to expand and contract together while allowing some slippage though retaining the seal thru the heat cycles. | ||
| X1brett |
Mark, I've encountered the same problem with my X1. Let me relay some info I recently gathered, most of which came from Al at American Sportbike. It is recommended to use steel wool (or something similar) to smooth out the ends of the intake manifold, the ends that the seals slide onto. They should be nicely polished to allow the seals to slide easily. Do not use any sealers that dry or harden. The heads move towards and away from the intake manifold a tiny bit when heated and cooled so a grease is recommended. (Sil-Glyde is good, as mentioned above.) Grease the seals and intake ends. When tightening, do so evenly at the heads so that the intake manifold is centered between the heads, not cocked to one side. You also have to make sure that the throttle body (or carb.) side is aligned so that when the throttle body is tightened, you aren't prying the seals out of the position they've found. Once it is back together and you are testing for leaks, use a propane torch instead of a liquid which can wash away the grease. To use the propane torch, don't light it but open the valve and put the tip by the seals to see if the idle rises. Sorry if this is TMI but I felt lost with the same issue a month ago. (I used hylomar to seal my seals but this stuff is not slippery enough and is not a good long term fix, unlike what I've explained above.) (Message edited by x1brett on October 17, 2014) | ||
| Buellistic |
"PLEASE" don't tell me that "i" need to write up a INTAKE CARBURETOR SEAL(s)INSTALLATION Class 101 for you'll ??? | ||
| Dannybuell |
Buellistic needs to start posting! :-) | ||
| Buellistic |
--- "i" do my best with my limited abilities, ie: ID10T and 1NC1C, but doing better is a challenge ... "BUT" if some one wants this HELP "INFO" "i" will put one together ... Even only one BUELLer wants this, just PM me so "i" can start ... | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Thanks x1brett I will get some new seals tomorrow from HD and try a sealer. I was hopping to get there today but they closed on me. I also found others using 3 bond, the propane sounds like a good idea. I will look for a high temp silicon sealer and but back together again. And report back. | ||
| Kalali |
He said no sealer... just a little grease to help the seals slide in and out as the manifold expands and shrinks as it heats and cools. | ||
| Akbuell |
I have had good results with a product left over from my aviation days. Dow Corning 55 O-ring lubricant. Listed for use in temps ranging from -85F to 350F. Contains silicone, lubricates, resists oxidation, and slightly swells rubber for better sealing. | ||
| Buellistic |
"BUT" these IN. SEALS are not true "O" RINGS ??? | ||
| Dannybuell |
I thought I would have seen this by now.... The old timers spoke of greases that were hard on rubber. Their solution was KY jelly because it wasn't hard on rubber. (Message edited by dannybuell on October 18, 2014) | ||
| Fxdrydr |
FWIW, I just replaced intake seals on an M2 and used a very light coat of Vaseline. If my wife saw me taking KY to the garage she'd think I was taking this Buell thing much too far! Also - used a general purpose Scotchbrite pad to thoroughly clean, smooth the ends of the intake manifold and the mating surfaces on the heads. Seems to have done the job nicely. | ||
| Kalali |
That's too funny.... | ||
| Buell_bert |
You can very well use KY jelly. I doubt it may have been tested to the extreme temperatures that you or your bike will experience in your use. I work in the high temp area of steam turbines and grease or lubricant is extremely tempermental as far as specific areas that the grease is used. In high temp areas it may act more like glue than a lubricant. Don't worry we know. Application may be very specific. I still believe any lube is better than none but the correct lube will make it last longer. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Been using Vaseline since I was a teenager (in engines) that was over sixty years ago. On rubber seals, 2 stroke needle bearings(assembly) even front wheel bearings on Drag bikes (very short duration usage).Always on intake seals.Be sure it's the unscented type, unless you want strange looks.  | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Twin Motorcycles has developed a new intake seal system that uses high-temp O-rings that looks like the best long term solution to me. When my seals don't seal any more I am considering giving their new product a try. | ||
| Buellistic |
This is one of the "BEST" PRODUCT IMPROVEMENTS that you can do !!! HIGH TEMPERATURE "O" RINGS LAST MUCH, MUCH LONGER !!! |
