| Author | Message | ||
     Damnut |
So the other week my 02 S3T died on me going down the highway. Up until then it ran fine, I noticed the engine light come on then it died. On the side of the road I stuck a piece of metal into the spark plug wire to see if there was any spark and she fired up on one cylinder. Today I was riding into work and on multiple occasions (2-3) the bike cutout/died while going down the highway. It was only for a second or two and each time the engine light would come on. The engine light would turn off as soon as the bike came back to life. The bike runs flawlessly and this is the only problem I've had. Could it be an ignition switch issue? I have to pull the codes if any are stored. Any ideas? | ||
| Jolly |
kick stand safety cutout? I bypassed mine sine it was killing the bike and preventing it from starting...2002 S3t | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yeah That idiot kickstand switch lasted about to 40K. Been jumpered ever since. It ended up being full of water. Another thing to look into is that BAS. Bank Angle Switch: it's supposed to stop your engine if you tip over. (mine didn't work since I had to reach over and switch it off when I dropped it on the highway some years back) | ||
| Damnut |
Didn't even think about the kickstand switch. hmm going to have to bypass that bitch and see what happens. I have ~30K on the clock. | ||
| Jolly |
thats about where mine failed on the S3T....35K or so... left me stranded...but fortunately I was "stranded" in the drive way when it failed! so my rescue was a cold beer a set of wire cutters, strippers (no not those kind...) a soldering iron and heat shrink... and back on the road | ||
| Oldog |
Damnut, also consider the main switch.. The runs on one cylinder is a clue, one other thought have you tried to get the fault codes? if it generated a light it might have generated codes, | ||
| Damnut |
Oldog, it was running on one cylinder because I pulled one of the wires to check for spark. | ||
| Alfau |
It ended up being full of water. Washing the bike again ? Definitely not designed to take outside. Check the clips on the ends of the plug wires for rust causing poor to no contact. | ||
| Kalali |
One of these three switches: kick stand, clutch safety, ignition. The only misleading clue is the CEL lighting up. These normally don't cause a code. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
I would also check the leads to the coil and coil wires. I recently bought a Low mileage X1 engine that the glue that held the ignition timing module melted. This is behind the little round riveted plate which says which engine it has - mine says Lighting. The only way to get to it is to drill out the rivets. You can get the Spark plug tester that allows you to see if there is spark - Harbor Freight - few bucks. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Cam position sensor can do that. Mine gave unwanted sparks that happened way before TDC and stopped the engine suddenly as if it had seized. If you replace the rivets that hold the plate on, use ones without FOD behind them. Many of us use the screws that hold the under-plate on and a Sportster timing cover. The CPS often smells burnt if it has failed. | ||
| Akbuell |
When I removed the plate covering the CPS, I did some measuring, and discovered that a 10/24 tap can be used to thread the holes that the rivets were in. Then got some 10/24 Allen head screws for cheap at Ace Hardware. Be careful though; the backing plate is only thick enough for 1 1/2 threads or so. More than enough to hold the decorative plate on, just tighten carefully. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Harleyelf |
You can also leave the backing plate off and use a Harley timing cover. Plenty of threads to catch your 10-24 screws. | ||
| Damnut |
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I'm in the middle of slapping a 29 tooth front sprocket on and putting my race can back on after a repack. I'll see what could be my issue after I'm done with this stuff. Jim | ||
| Imadog |
I have been using Hylomar Blue Universal Sealant for any screw that can't be over torqued. Had to order from O'Reilly Auto Parts. FSM recommends this sealant in several applications. See www.hylomar.com | ||
| Jolly |
Damnut, did you solve this? just wondering what it turned out to be. | ||
| Damnut |
I "think" it is the clutch switch. I was riding home the other week and it kept dying for a second or two and would come right back to life. I had already bypassed the kickstand switch at that point so it wasn't that. I pulled over and pulled the pins on the clutch switch and taped them together. It did it one more time on the way home that day. So I guess the answer is that it is ongoing. I'm going to get a better connection on the clutch switch and see if that's it. I haven't had a chance to take it out again since then. I'll keep ya posted. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Clutch switch should not affect running, look at ignition switch. | ||
| Damnut |
That's what I was hoping it wasn't Jim. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Don't forget you may have an issue in the relay/fuse box. Could be as simple as corrosion, or a wire on the backside that the lock for that discrete wire is failing and pushing out of it's position. Wiggle test kind of hard while going down the street to test. I just developed a problem myself. Getting all the bikes ready for their winter nap and got around to the 2000 X1 Lightning with a weak battery. Thought to pull the relay to kill the lights! I pulled both! BTW, it's a 20A fuse! So now, I've got to twist the lower relay to get the starter to work. Windup will be I'll have to pull the ECM etc etc to rotate the aluminum tail. Oh well  | ||
| Jolly |
I think I could loan my ignition switch from my S3 to you if you need it to help with trouble shooting. I'd of course like to get it back, but I can spare it for a bit, just let me know and I'll try to find the time this weekend to pull it and send it and a key to you if it will help. | ||
| Damnut |
Thanks jolly, I'll let you know if I need it. My garage is packed with shit and can't get my bike out. |
