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Archive through October 09, 2014Sportyeric30 10-09-14  08:05 pm
Archive through August 29, 2014Jolly30 08-29-14  10:29 pm
         

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Thylacine
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



a standoff that uses another pivot point is beneficial.
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Johnod
Posted on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just found this thread, looks interesting.

What bikes are these going to fit?

I have an S2 and would be interested.
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D_adams
Posted on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got most of the stuff back last week, just haven't had the time to bolt it on to the bike yet. Working on an 1190 RX exhaust this week.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 05:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

John, I politely suggest you read back through the entire thread, it is a developing project that may fit numerous models. You'll want to know what's taking place and a lot of details are in previous posts.

Looks like a real cool project Dean.

One question/observation and comment. Why so bulky? I bought a Banke brake pedal from Al years ago, then sent it back, it was strong and nice looking, but clonky. Bulky parts really aren't necessary when they're cnc'd from billet metal. Just consider how much smaller the stock cast metal parts are... the cnc'd stuff could be more elegant and still stronger than stock, it's most certainly a better material from the start just because cast isn't all that great.

I hope that doesn't come off too critical, I hope you see what I'm saying, knowing the beautiful pipes you've crafted I anticipate you may understand what I'm attempting to convey.

Also, I mistakenly bought an X1 brake pedal for my M2 years ago, I didn't do close comparison to see what the difference was but they weren't cross compatible, hopefully someone who knows if it was just for the length to the peg (as in the shifter) can chime in. The slotted lever would make that a non-issue and make it work for all the tubers.

-Mike
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 05:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No worries for criticism, it is a work in progress. If it needs to be thinner, then it needs to be done. Just finding time to get them done is the hard part now. 3 bikes are stacked up like sardines so I have room to work on the RX exhaust. The pipe itself is now done, I want to build a jig off the existing one now so I can replicate it better. I finally got the mount points and bracket sorted out, so it will be different than what I did on the 1125 and I may retrofit the bracket to the 1125 later if it works like what I want.
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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1 and S1 levers for both sides are interchangeable M2 are not. The positioning of the toe peg on the shifter is diffrent which can be solved by the adjustable toe oeg but the brake issue is with the angle of the rear area that the master attaches to. If you use a X1 style on an M2 the pedal will be sitting at such an angle down that you cant reach it.
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Phelan
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a Banke and didn't find it particularly bulky. It was thicker than my stock pieced on my S2 but they are chromed steel, not aluminum. The stock pieces that are aluminum really aren't much thinner, but they are taller and solid. The holes and slots in the new pieces will require them to be bigger. Billet is stronger than cast, but it isn't a miracle metal. They can brake too, though they usually bend first.
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After looking at it, I think it needs to be 1/2" thick material just for the brake pivot point alone.






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Jolly
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like it!!!

Looks great!

Well done!

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Schlong
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great work ! Looks excellent , I'd be interested in a set when you get started making them
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Jolly
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Banke does outstanding work and is certainly credited with originally solving this problem in the early days!! With 5 Tubers I have multiple sets and was quite grateful when Al worked a deal with Banke to do a short production run for the S1/X1 bikes recently,

however, when I needed stuff for my S2 there wasn't anything available (that I could find, or that I was aware of) so I had to work with my machinist and make my own

Its nice to see talented folks producing things that provide options for what is currently on the market, or even off the market.

this is what makes these bikes unique, at least in the riders category, were an older crowd for the most part and there are some extremely talented folks here with the tools and experience to solve problems and pass those solutions on to each other, I could rattle off probably a dozen rider designed (produced) parts that folks are passing on to each other.

I keep checking in to see if you have the shifter completed yet!!
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm missing the connecting threaded shaft between the heim joints. I will probably take the one off my xb to see if it's even close for a fit or what length I'll need.
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S1owner
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They do look great Dean and you do awesome work Here is some comparison pics for what I was meaning with the rear angle
M2 shifter top X1/S1 bottom


M2 brake top X1/S1 bottom
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V74
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an X1 shifter kit on my M2 I repositioned the foot pegs up and back and cut 1 inch from the gear lever to get the correct length.
I have a banke rear brake lever and had to cut the adjustable threaded part to get the correct height for it to work as it should.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2014 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks good Dean.

V74, I have an X1 shifter and had to trim the length too. Sure is a nice upgrade from the stock boomerang shifter.
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V74
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2014 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The shortend lever means more pressure to change gear than required on an X1 so was thinking of flipping the top bit over and drilling and tapping a new hole to the rear of the shifter pivot and trimming the front off similar to how the banke shifter is but calculating the correct distance is tricky, I could use the same measurement as the original hole to pivot but was thinking this might not be correct for the pressure required to change gear smoothly and positively?
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