| Author | Message | ||
     Phelan |
Wanting to do a 1250 build in my S2T, probably this winter. I may or may not open the cases, as my bike has 50,000 miles on it currently. Depends on what the rods feel like and how things look when I open it up. I know I want ported XB heads and small fin cylinders (I like the frankenlook), but most everything else is up in the air. I rev the s*** out of this thing regularly, so low end is not so much a concern, though a smooth low-end is nice. Highway RPMs are 3800-4000 currently, so it needs to run good there. I currently have a round Hurricane-flow A/C and a custom 2-1-2 exhaust, and HSR 42, among other mods. Runs 84/80 currently, looking for 110/90 or better. Thoughts? 1. squish, 15 or 30*? 2. ignition? 3. dual/single plugs? 4. roller rockers, yes/no? Anyone tried Ultima's? 5. lifters? 6. switch to a Mik 45 y/n? 7. Thanks! | ||
| Hootowl |
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| Lynrd |
I would definitely use an ignition, single or dual plugs AND lifters! | ||
| Phelan |
Lol! | ||
| Lynrd |
More seriously - What is the shift recovery point for how you ride? That is - where are the RPMs at after you bang the next gear? One school of thought for tuning is to tune for that range. And , you know, 50,000 miles + "I rev the s*** out of it" = you maybe should consider lighter wheels "While you're there anyway"... X1 wheels maybe? Or go crazy with knife edge + balance + trued stock wheels? I honestly wish I knew what all Jason did to Rhonda before I got her. She winds up insanely quick. What I do know is Mikuni 42mm, normal HD rockers, XB boxes, Thunderstorm heads, Buell Race Exhaust and Dyna 2000 ignition with VOES connected. I don't know which cams or what all was done to the bottom end if anything, but that combination sure works... | ||
| Phelan |
If I do have to open the bottom end, all bets are off; no telling what I'll do at that point  . | ||
| Phelan |
I generally shift around 4200-5000 in town, sometimes lower. My fun riding is usually 4500-up in lower gears. On the highway it's easy, WFO to 80 and them cruise there at 3900. I've hit 7000 a couple times on accident (no rev limiter) and no purpose (dyno), so that will have to factor in as well. | ||
| Lynrd |
no - shift recovery - what is the RPM range right *after* the shift? | ||
| Phelan |
gotchya; 3400-4000 generally. I have pretty nasty reversion at 2800-3200 so I try to avoid it; I'll shift up to 4th or so if I'm trying to put around 35-40 mph for a couple miles, then double-down to rpm up past the reversion. | ||
| Jayvee |
Do you have budgetary constraints? (Every time I do an engine 'wish list' it comes up to about $4,000 or more....) | ||
| Phelan |
Not really, though it is budget conscious. To validate and elaborate my questions, I'm mainly wanting opinions on how I can build this and which parts to use to hit my target power goals, yet reasonably expect it to have not much more maintenance than the stock motor. I do plan to put another 50,000 mi on this bike. I do expect some parts to wear more often and need to keep an eye on them, but I don't want to do that every 10-15k miles like a 88 or 90" would require. (Message edited by phelan on July 30, 2014) | ||
| Stev0 |
1. squish, 15 or 30*?........ Wouldn't go under 0.030" on a street engine and rarely go under 0.040" on a daily ride. 2. ignition? .... take you pick of something programable 3. dual/single plugs?.. singles, I run both on different vehicles and single are fine for street. 4. roller rockers, yes/no? Anyone tried Ultima's? .... not needed until up near 0.600" lift. 5. lifters? .. Jims or S&S limiters in stock ones.. I use both of these. 6. switch to a Mik 45 y/n? .. 42 is bigger than you need at 1250 unless you're revving to 8000... forget the 45 7. Thanks! ...... you're welcome You've missed the most important question.... cams. With the revs you're talking I'd use SE 0.536's with the XB heads.. | ||
| Phelan |
whoops, how did I miss cams? lol. That's the Q I want input on the most lol. .536's are mild for what I have in mind me thinks  . | ||
| Stev0 |
I ran an 11 second Sporty as daily transport for 5 years with those cams.. Go any bigger and it will make living with it very difficult.. Have taken big cams out of customers bikes many times over the years and have also seen many customers sell the bike rather than lose face and buy something milder.. I will probably use them on a street 88" motor in the Buell tourer... | ||
| Phelan |
.536 is a sick cam, but I also want some of that up-top stuff :P. I was thinking maybe some NRHS cat 3 cams with high ratio roller rockers, or maybe some cat 4s with low or stock ratio rollers maybe? http://nrhsperformance.com/partscamshafts.shtml The kicker to all this is that I'll be an apprentice/shop monkey at a known shop in September  . | ||
| Stev0 |
at a quick glance those "Cat 3's" are similar to SE 0.536's ... I wouldn't be going any bigger on a street bike. | ||
| Ceejay |
I had a t-storm that went 10 over with polished ports - I didn't mess with the size/shape, SE 536's, a 42, dyna ignition, forcewinder intake and a force pipe. Really fun bike that would get into the rev limiter in a hurry, had decent riding manners, I put about 10K miles on it, but was too darn loud for my liking. I planned to put it on a dyno but never got around to it before I sold the motor...It was a really nice combo. | ||
| Splatter |
"The kicker to all this is that I'll be an apprentice/shop monkey at a known shop in September : D." So if your going to work for Nrhs why are you asking this here? | ||
| Phelan |
To get the juices flowing man! Gotta have something to think and talk about for the next month while I sit around and do next to nothing at my current job for the next month (not my choice; they know I'm leaving so I've been training my replacement so I have very little to do myself). | ||
| S2t_bama |
Sorry for the highjack, but what is reversion? | ||
| Jayvee |
This is a pretty good explanation, even if its on a Suzuki forum. I can't vouch for the accuracy of it, just came across it: http://ds650.org/community/index.php?topic=61.0 | ||
| Stev0 |
That only explains part of it from my understanding.. Google Finite Amplitude Waves if you wish to get deep into the forces involved.. | ||
| S2t_bama |
Thanks very much for getting back to me. I believe I understand. So what is the symptom that led you to conclude that reversion is occurring. I am assuming you did not use the "drop in dynamometer power curve" method discussed in the link? Thanks again! | ||
| Phelan |
The dyno did show it. But the kicker is the huge mist of gas that shoots out of the carb when the bike is revved into or through the RPMs that reversion is present in, visually seen by removing the air cleaner. Looks like a can of pledge lol. |
