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Schmidt452
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just finished a top end gasket change on my 99 X1 due to a base gasket leaking. My issue now is the motor feels like it loads up and misses under 3k, it seems to idle fine and run OK after 3k. So from off idle to above 3k it runs poorly. I am going to try new plugs and some injector cleaner. Anything else I should be looking for? With EcmSpy the readings look normal, the engine comes up to temp OK and the air fuel value seams OK right at 101. The bike is stock except for a V&H slip-on and a force style air cleaner.

Thanks for any help.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you have an intake leak.
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Totalnutah
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

had a similar problem when my ignition switch was breaking down , or maybe a TPS reset ?


(Message edited by totalnutah on June 26, 2014)
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Two_seasons
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Intake or exhaust leak would be my guess.

Intake test is to run NON-LIT propane around your seals and see if it speeds up your idle.

Exhaust test is to put a leather glove on your hand and run it around each exhaust gasket to find a leak. You can dip the glove in water if it becomes too hot.
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Phelan
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or you can squirt water at the intake seals. If it tries to die when you do. it leaks. No chance of blowing stuff up that way :P.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info I'll check them out and report back.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Checked the intake seals both ways, with map gas and water, no change in idle either way. I don't believe the exhaust gaskets are an issue either. I checked them by placing a gloved hand over the muffler outlet and listened for leaks.

I replaced the plugs and added some Lucas injector cleaner with no change in performance. Today I am going to check and do a TPS reset. other than than that I am kinda stumped. I have about 30 miles on the new plugs, they look nice.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I reset the TPS this morning, no change. When it misses it seam to come out the intake. Could an intake valve be open slightly? But why then would it idle OK?
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Schmidt452
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a compression check, 175 psi in both cylinders, to me that rules out a valve issue.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pull the ETS, engine temp sensor, lead off and see if the idle to 3K issue is still there.

When I bought my used 2000 X1 in Dec. 2010 it was running on one cylinder. I read a lot of BadWeb posts and decided it was my ETS. Changed out the O2 sensor while I was doing that. BTW, easiest way to remove O2 sensor is to break away the back of the sensor with a pair of channel locks, then you can use a socket to remove it.

And it ran like brand new after that.

You just may have a bad ETS.
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Screamer
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Two Seasons - sent you a pm.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2014 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you put the pushrods back in the correct locations? They're different lengths, and if they're in the wrong place you will have valvetrain issues.

Also make sure all your vacuum hoses are connected properly. Any "over/under XXX rpm" issues make me think ignition timing, and advance is vacuum controlled.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did remove the temp sensor plug last night, definitely did not help. I am going to try new intake seals tonight. I will check the push rods too. I am 98% sure they are correct but now you are making me question what I did. I don’t think there is much for vacuum lines just the little one on the underside of the throttle body.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 02:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Unplugging temp sensor defaults to "sub zero" and adds a ton of fuel so don't want to do that.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 07:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I changed the intake seals last night with no change in performance. How does one check the timing? It is back firing mostly out of the intake and exhaust occasionally, makes a nice blue flame! I doubled checked compression again to 175-180 both cylinders… and they both pull about 100 psi on the first stroke. To me this says the valves are fully closing.

Anyone interested in a project… I don’t mind the tinkering aspect of Buell ownership but at some point I want to Ride!
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Kalali
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before ripping things apart, if the bike idles OK, I would doublecheck the fuel maps to make sure nothing I corrupted. Better yet, reload another known good set of maps and see what happens. May sound like a long shot but just one more variable to rule out.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't think its the maps the ESC will not work with any changes to it. I have tried loading maps and adjusting cells with no luck.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you overwrite a fuel cell value, that data has to be saved. Maybe you did not save it. I can't remember how Loose1 did it with mine, but my midrange on the '99 X1 is excellent now!

Are you using ECMspy?

Ted, what are you doing Sunday? Can you ride it here? PM me and I'll give you my phone #.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way, give me your phone # when you PM me.

I'll call you. PM's take too long...
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Schmidt452
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM sent!

I am using ECMspy.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM you back. Tried to call you.

Call me when you get the PM. Contact info is included Ted.

See you Sunday.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, Ted shows up today. When he got here, bike sounded good at idle.

We plugged in ECMspy and noted AFV was at 118. Truly cannot remember but it wasn't at 100%. We reset the TPS, let it sit for 10 minutes, then adjusted the AFV to 130. Idle improved. Then bumped it to 150, nothing better.

I rode Ted's '99 X1 and he rode my 2008 1125r. Took it out for a short loop and as bike got hotter, from idle to 3400 it ran pretty poorly. Open loop ran better.

Came back to the home front and we swapped my '99 X1 ETS into his '99 X1. No change.

We think it may be a problem with the closed loop, specifically the O2 sensor.

Ted never changed out the third gasket, the one on the other side of the throttle body when he did the two of them recently. We got out the Mapp gas but forgot to use it around the third gasket.

While I'm thinking about it, when I was adjusting the idle screw to totally shut, it seems that the idle adjust screw is notchy, in other words, not real smooth.

Ted's bike seems to not enjoy life under 3400 rpms.

So, Ted's going to change out the O2 sensor and see if that makes a diff.

You guys got anything else for this great looking 1999 Racing Stripe X1 Lightning?

Is it really that important that when re-installing the push rods, do they really have to be in the same place?
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Mighty_mouse
Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had read before on my '01 X1 that the intake push rods have 1 brown stripe while the exhaust have 3 pink stripes. The intakes are 10.746" and the exhaust are 10.800".

MM
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Kalali
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Depending on the intake style this might be a hassle but did you visually check and see if the throttle plate was fully closed when resetting the TPS? Symptoms seem like improperly set TPS. Marginal O2 sensors usually throw a code. Was the IAT reading look good? IAT and ETS should read about the same or very closely at room temperature.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

quote from Mighty Mouse:
I had read before on my '01 X1 that the intake push rods have 1 brown stripe while the exhaust have 3 pink stripes. The intakes are 10.746" and the exhaust are 10.800".

MM

Hopefully Ted will fill us in about this. Thanks for the input MM.

quote from Kalali:
Depending on the intake style this might be a hassle but did you visually check and see if the throttle plate was fully closed when resetting the TPS? Symptoms seem like improperly set TPS. Marginal O2 sensors usually throw a code. Was the IAT reading look good? IAT and ETS should read about the same or very closely at room temperature.

Did not do a visual with the throttle plate, but the cabled idle screw was pretty nochy about every 1/8 of a turn, so it may not have gotten all the way closed.

Did not look at the IAS and ETS when cold as we did not have those conditions.

In the order I think Ted's X1 needs attention...
1.) Intake leak, he only replaced the two at the engine, not the air cleaner
2.) Exhaust leak, he just replaced them.
3.) Push rods not in the exact order.
4.) O2 sensor

As stated above, we ruled out the ETS, he borrowed mine and took it out. Leaving the driveway, we both knew his ETS wasn't failing!

When he was pulling away last night, going back home, it was sputtering/backfiring. We had reset the AFV to 100%, so that probably did not help. When we set the AFV to 130 at idle, it was probably masking a lean condition, eg; (leak(s).

Ted (Schmidt452) has owned this bike since 2000, so he knows it well.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well it been a while since I have had time to post anything on here, but I have learned a couple of things since my last post. First Two Seasons is a hell of a nice guy! He more than went out of his way to help me, pulse he has some beautiful Buells, the 1125 is a bad ass bike!

I replace the O2 sensor last night with a Bosch 12014, again no change. I did think of an area that could have an air leak I am missing that I have not checked yet, the O-ring around the injectors. I will check those tonight and the push rods. I don’t think there is an air leak around the seal from the throttle body to manifold, it is still a very snug fit.

I rode the bike home last night in some relatively cool weather (mid 50’s) and the condition got worse, which does lead me to believe it is more of a tuning or air leak than anything mechanical. It has moments that it runs better.

Thanks again everyone for the help!

Ted
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never thought about the injector o-rings Ted.

Please report back when you get this issue sorted. Curious minds, and later searchers seeking answers to their problem(s), want to know.

Back to you Ted. You're another BadWeb friend to me. When I get the S2T back on the road, I'll call you.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way, find out why that idle adjust is so notchy. That may be an issue to as Kalali mentioned above.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I found the issue I was having with my Buell. I believe it has an air leak around one of the injectors. I have my fingers crossed this is it. I sprayed carb cleaner at the rear injector o-ring and the motor dies almost immediately.
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Schmidt452
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2014 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the orings fixed about half the issue, much better driveability. The motor still feels like it loads up and starts missing while cruising at steady throttle. Perhaps it's time I learned about the data logging with ECMspy...
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