| Author | Message | ||
     Mikethediabetic |
So after a nice day of riding, i approached a traffic light near my house and down shifted to a stop. Then i pulled away as usual and it wouldnt come out of 1st gear. It will not go into neutral either. The clutch will disengage the transmission when pulled in. The shifter will make the motion to downshift if there was a gear there but it will not budge up. It is a 2000 X1 with an all stock internals motor with 10K on the clock. I have not taken the primary cover off yet, just wanted to see if you guys had any advice first. Thank you in advance. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
Maybe the clip on the detent plate has broken and the plate has jammed up. Just a thought, I know the clips break fairly often. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
yeah i read that as well. like i said i have torn into the motor yet, just seeing if someone has run into this before and what i should look for. this should be fun... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Detente plate, pins on the shifter drum, bent little shifter hooks, who knows. Do you have the updated primary chain tensioner? If not, you are at the right milage for the stock unit to have broken it's plate, and a piece of that could be floating around messing up the works as well. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
Reep, i have read about that as well. I am hoping that is the issue. I dont want to dive to far into the transmission. They scare the crap outta me lol. If it is that, where can i buy an upgraded one? | ||
| Phelan |
The detent plate is absolutely the most likely problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The factory part from your local dealer should be the new one, the old ones should be long gone from stock. Al at AmericanSportbike can probably get one for you as well. To get to the parts discussed so far, you first have to pull the primary cover (easy, though you will want a new metal gasket to reassemble). Then you have to remove the stator / primary chain / clutch assembly as a unit. That gets a bit hairier, as you need to fabricate a locking plate, and you need some unusually big sockets. You pull chain, stator bell, and clutch off as a unit. Depending on what age your service manual is, the torque specs for the crank nut may be too low. They were updated. The original factory paper gasket was very difficult to get to seal. The new metal one works well and can often be reused successfully one or two times. | ||
| Screamer |
Additional possibility may be a broken return spring on the shift mechanism. | ||
| Kalali |
Ask for part # 39975-90A; Chain Adjuster Assembly. The one I got has 3/8/13 date on the box. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
awesome. great stuff guys. i will dive into it this weekend most likely. here goes nothing lol. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If your bike had previous owners, you may want to wait until you get it open to see if somebody has swapped it already. | ||
| Schmidt452 |
Also check the pins on the shift Drum, they have tendency to walk out. I turned down the end so it was flush with the detent plate. I then tapped the center pin and used a cap screw to hold on the detent plate. Likely overkill but I didn't want the pins walking out again. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
This is a problem that can happen if your primary chain is not adjusted right. 1/2 inch is the max slack you want in the chain and is where I run mine until I get this sticking and need to tighten it up to 1/2 again. This makes a diff getting rid of this problem in HOT WEATHER. The problem shows up most in hot city traffic and can go away in urban areas. Again, Adjust your chain and make sure you have the updated tensioner that has already been covered. I have 25,000 on my x1 and this is a rare occurrence. I dont feel the need to dig in yet. Waiting for another reason. Detent plate will at some point need to be dealt with. If you rev the engine the shifting returns to normal. (Message edited by mmmi_grad on August 03, 2014) | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
ok guys i was finally able to dive into this and i think everything is ok. when i opened it up i found the classic faulty broken primary chain adjuster. here it is..  so there it is nothing major and a cheap fix. but i still have a problem, i cant find the plastic piece that broke off. now i believe i have to remove the other stuff to find it. So.. how do i get the other stuff off lol. here is a pic of where im at.  please help me out guys. this is the first time i am this deep into the bottom end. thanks again! | ||
| Ratbuell |
It's plastic...IF it gets caught in something, it'll get chewed up and spat out. May have already, could be why you can't find it. | ||
| Smoke |
lock plate to hold chain and sprocket from moving, i use a large chunk of aluminum 3/8 thick and let it roll into the sprocket to lock it up. pull the snap ring on the clutch basket that holds the throwout bearing and clutch adjustment screw to get at clutch hub nut. this nut is left hand thread so righty loosey/ lefty tightey on that one. use a heat gun to loosen the loctite that is supposed to be there and on the engine sprocket nut. the engine sprocket nut is normal thread so ccw for loosening. this will allow you to pull both sprockets with chain and investigate for plastic and allow you to access the cassette transmission. good time to retorque your starter bolts. good luck. tim | ||
| Tod662 |
It should only take a couple of hours or days to pull every thing out and parts wash. Dont be scared of the tranny, after every thing else is removed it comes out easily as a unit. I left a bike locked in gear for over a year and when I finally pulled it apart there was just a small burr on the shift fork drum. Half a days work and back on the road. GET A MANUAL and dive in, you have this fantastic wealth of info in this forum if you get stuck. | ||
| Orngm2 |
I got a 1999 with 20k on it... Opened the primary this week to fix oil leak coming from stator wire plug... Check/fix the following and kill it all at once... Wih the clutch and stator units removed, goop up the stator plug with black permetex rtv to fix the impending oil leak that WILL happen, check if there is any where on the shift detent plate... if there is remove the plate and reset the 4 pins on the shift drum. Also remove the grenade plate from the clutch and replace with the appropiate amount of steel and friction plates... I just replaced my whole clutch pack and spring plate... I just did all of the above this week, still waiting on the clutch pack. Nothing too hard, check on this forum for info on all of it. Good luck and email if you need any help! | ||
| Orngm2 |
Also replace the crank seal while you have the stator off... I fixed this while in the primary. | ||
| Alfau |
Good on you for having a go. The detent plate is a known problem area. Now is the time to check it, while you have the case off. Take your time, check for signs of wear on the plate. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/479531.html | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
ok i found the piece and solved the gear problem. here is a pic of where the little jerk was lodged.  as you can see that is why it wasnt letting it come out of first gear. But now i have a new problem. when i started it up to go for a test ride i heard a rather loud tapping noise. Loud enough to hear it easily over my exhaust which is essentially an open header. it seemed to goes fater with the revs and after closer inspection i think i located it to the top end of the motor. now i am pretty sure i didnt hear it before the Primary adjuster went. and obviously i didnt touch the top end to fix the adjuster. So any input at what it could possibly be? thanks again guys. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
tapping noise could just need to adjust the chain - take the little inspection cover off - 2 bolts, but in 5th and rotate the back tire and check the chain play for about 1/2-3/4 play. you will need the back tire able to rotate. If that does not take care of the noise, and you had changed the crank seal you might want to make sure the 4 bolts that hold the gear to magnet are not hitting the stator. | ||
| Jim2 |
It could be an exhaust leak. Move your hand around when it's running and feel for pulse. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
i didnt fully remove the stator so nothing behind it was touched. i did adjust the belt to 1/2" before i started it. It doesnt really sound like an exhaust leak to me. i did notice after i shut it down that i am a little low on oil. i hope that could be it. i will have to see what happens | ||
| Buellistic |
You are the victim of running you primary chain "TOO TIGHT" !!! Your drive belt is probably "TOO TIGHT" also !!! PRIMARY CHAIN and DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class's 101, just PM me for copies ... | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
well the tap went away. my chain was adjusted 1/2"-3/4" but i noticed that i was a bit low on oil. so i did a full engine, tranny, filter change with mobil 1 and the tap went away completely. put about 60 miles on it and still running great. thanks for everything guys! until next time lol |
