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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bike is rough around the edges, but should make a good rider. What hasn't been hacked off is mostly stock. It does have a SS D&D header and can. The Volcano grey has been replaced with Metalflake black. Not a bad color, but not what I would have picked.

Also on the to-do list:
Replace choke cable.
Fix oil leak on front rocker box.
Add a license plate bracket because zip ties to the the sub frame are not doing it for me.
Fix leaking fork seals.
Also need to inspect the intake gaskets. The PO says they are leaking, and are what is causing the bike to pop on deccel. I thought that was usually a sign of an exhaust leak, but I could be wrong.







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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Add a license plate bracket because zip ties to the the sub frame are not doing it for me.




Welcome Nitro, sounds like you will fit right in around here...

Thank you for rescuing that M2!
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Phelan
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome! How much decel pop? Because the D&D is known to have some. I had one of those D&D full systems and if it would have fit my S2 I woulda kept it! : D
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much? I'm not sure what to compare it to. I had a Sportster that had some exhaust pop until I replaced the crush gaskets, but I don't think I can compare drag pipes with torque cones to a 2-1 performance exhaust.
I've only ridden it for about a 5 min test ride. I just got it insured today, and need to take it in for inspection.
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Robertl
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once you have the choke working, see if it pops with a little choke.

If not, probably lean so increase slow jet 1 size.
Best $9 I ever spent (jet and gasket from harley).

Still a good idea to check all the gaskets and seals too
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think somebody made a license bracket from sheet aluminum, like the hardware store sells, and put it between the taillight and what the taillight bolts to. I'm not sure if a beer can would work, but it might...
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Triman023
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the intake seals before you fiddle with the carb.
It will run much better.
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I may need to make something. I ordered a universal bracket off of ebay, but it could take months to get here from China... I can't register the bike until I get a state inspection, and inspection requires a license light...
So if I want to ride (legally) anytime soon, I may need to fabricate.
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I also got my insurance documents today. The insurance card lists the bike as a M2L. I didn't know this was a Low. Is that something they can get from the VIN, or is it just the ignorance of the insurance company?
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

VIN
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Hootowl
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can buy license plate bolts with lights in them. Pretty easy way to light up a plate, no fabrication required, just have to run power to them.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&node=15684181&key words=led+license+plate+bolt+lights&tag=googhydr-2 0&hvadid=36265623758&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hv rand=12020810117367139119&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b& hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7v6z8zsmvb_b
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can either rig up some lights for the current location, or fab a bracket to fit under the taillight which allows for the stock light. Since I want the plate back in the stock location, I'll focus my efforts on the bracket.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You might still be able to get a plate bracket from Storz...it attaches with the taillight bolts...
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Found free service manual online. http://munck06.free.fr/BUELL/manuals/M2/2002/M2-m2 l-Manual-2002.pdf

They have a few other models as well.
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Coxster
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 01:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my LP bracket:


LP


8"x8" stainless with two holes for the taillight bolts. I bent two ears on the side to hold the signals. Added two brakelights below the plate and side markers for visibility.
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2014 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Since I want the plate back in the stock location, I'll focus my efforts on the bracket."

Good call moving the plate back to the correct location. Looks great.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the pop on decal can be either exhaust or intake leaks - I had both on my M2.
if exhaust you can feel the pressure by the exhaust port.

with aftermarket exhaust I also replaced the jet
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So an increase in the pilot size is all that is usually needed? No change in the main?
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes the pilot is all I changed
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46champ
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 12:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 99 M2 pretty much stock except for the Buell race air cleaner. I just recently went up 1 jet size on the pilot jet and put 1 shim under the needle. I did this because of the spitting off idle thru about 2500 on the tach. Runs much better now. Tried 2 shims and I lost about 5 mpg. I think most of the problem is because of the ethanol fuel we have to use.
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spent yesterday afternoon cleaning the bike and making a new plate bracket. Hopefully my crappy welds hold up to the vibration.



Took it out this afternoon for my first real ride. It handles good and the power feels great. Both vibration and heat seem worse than my old 883 Sportster. Shifting is a little iffy. I keep trying to go lower than first when at stoplights. There's too much play and it's hard to feel when I reach first. I need to replace the shifter bushing. And finding neutral is harder than finding the G-spot...

Popping during decel isn't as bad as the backfiring that develops when it gets hot. It also idles high (about 1500). I tried using the idle adjustment knob, but it didn't want to turn either direction.

I'll try the intake gaskets first, and see how if it improves. If it still spits I'll try to rejet. I'll have to read through the service manual. Only carb work I've done is on a weed eater.
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your missing a heatshield on right side in front of battery. Excess vibs may be worn isolator engine mounts. Just looking at the position of the rear isolator bolts, where they sit in relation to the frame hole, your isolators are probably toast. The bolt should lie slightly below the centerline of the frame hole not above as yours appears in the picture.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, your belt looks really tight.
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Blackm2
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

D&D's do not pop. Something else is wrong if they do. You need to be using either Cometics or the Screaming Eagle exhaust gaskets. The OEM conical or crush gaskets will cause improper alignment or positioning of the pipes at the head and will cause popping.
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Jim2
Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2014 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your looking for a black front fender and rear hugger they are up for sale right now.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=21&post=2423619#POST2423619
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Friday, July 25, 2014 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. I just received a black front fender in the mail today. I got a good deal on it from another forum member. Also picked up a hugger on eBay.

Stupid question, but is the longer portion of the fender the front or back?
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Jim2
Posted on Friday, July 25, 2014 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine is longer on the front.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, July 27, 2014 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to check/adjust your primary chain. It should be 1/2 or a little more WHEN COLD. Makes a HUGE difference when finding Neutral.

And make sure your primary chain tensioner shoe is the newer design. Old design breaks!

Also, as said above, adjust your drive belt for "scary loose". Should be able to touch your swing arm with the bottom and top of the belt.

Change it back to volcanic grey. Best looking color combo imho.
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