| Author | Message | ||
     Wolk625 |
So i was on my way home from work today, and began to hit some heavy traffic. while at a long stop at a traffic light, my engine light came on. along with that, i may have been imagining things or could have heard a car nearby, but it almost sounded like it was accompanied by some sort of whine. when it was finally time to move forward, the engine light went off and i couldn't hear the sound anymore, but along with that, the speedo, odo, turn signals and tail light were gone too! the bike was still running great, no loss of juice or anything like that, headlight is still on, but none of that "legal" stuff works now. I'm stumped. Anybody got any ideas? as always, thanks ahead of time (Message edited by wolk625 on June 23, 2014) | ||
| Wolk625 |
*bike is a 2000 X1, efi | ||
| Two_seasons |
Corrosion in the fuse/relay box. Draw a map of each location that has a fuse/relay, make note of the amp value, then spray electrical contact cleaner on all the clips/pins. Swap the relays and see if that helps. Probably the "noise" you heard was the fuel pump cycling. Another thought, check all of your grounds. If you don't have a service manual, get one from Al and Joanne at American Sport Bike. | ||
| Wolk625 |
so an update - today i had a chance to get at the fuse box and the ground under the seat. i swapped out the fuses associated w/ my nonworking stuff (blasting the box before sticking them in with contact cleaner) and cleaned the rest of the area around there. when i turned the key the speedo, odo and turn signals came back, brake light was on but still steady lit when i pulled the lever. so i went for a quick ride to see if that did the trick, worked out of my neighborhood but i found a line at a traffic light again, i lost all the other electronics again. i know i've probably found the issue but i'll have to play with it more to really figure out what's going on | ||
| Akbuell |
May be apples and oranges, but I had a similar problem once with my '01 X1. The inst lights, turn signals, ect. would drop off for no reason, on an intermittent basis. No luck with grounds, fuses. Finally noticed that the 'branch' of the wiring harness that feeds the turn signal flasher and the rear brake light was routed over the oil tank in such a way that the wires had a sharp bend, close to 90deg. Re-routed that section to eliminate the sharp bend, and the problem went away. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Wolk625 |
 well, found my problem. not sure where it connects to though. it comes out of the same cable "snake branch" as the black ground that connects to the chassis bolt. Think I could attach it to the same spot and be good? *credit goes to theX1files for helping me find it (Message edited by wolk625 on June 27, 2014) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Fuzzy picture - If it's just a broken eye you can get a nice weather resistant one at the local auto repair, carefully remove that and install the end. Then good to go. | ||
| Wolk625 |
update - i put on a new ground connector and got back my turn signals, dash, headlight, and steady brake light. but, when i pull the brake, the brighter brake light doesn't come on. is it pretty easy for the brighter brake light filament to burn out, or is it possible that i've still got some more electrical gremlins around? | ||
| Kalali |
Takes about 5 minutes to replace the bulb... | ||
| Akbuell |
The brake light bulb is certainly a prime suspect. A quick check involves a test light or multimeter. The rear brake light switch has 2 male connectors on top; one has 2 wires connected to it. Red with a yellow tracer, I believe. With the key on, that connector should have no voltage. Apply the brakes, one at a time. Brake on, that connector should have voltage. If so, the brake electrical system is good, up to the rear switch. Try the bulb first. If a new bulb and the above check is OK, and the light doesn't come on, then there is a break in the wire from the switch to the tail light; or a bad ground from the tail light assy. Hope this helps, Dave (Message edited by Akbuell on July 02, 2014) | ||
| Two_seasons |
Or, just maybe, a crusty bulb contact from corrosion. Either way, you'll be in there finding out! | ||
| Wolk625 |
so a weirder result - got a new bulb, and it seems that both the normal brightness light and the brighter braking filament are just constantly on, regardless of the brake lever position. i'll start wiggling and cleaning some more connections and see if i can get it back | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
What you have is both filaments in series. Make sure the housing of the tail light is grounded properly. Look for evidence of previous owner's tampering with harness too. Those crimp on butt connectors are like a trouble flag. | ||
| Akbuell |
Quick check: Unplug the O/W wire to the rear brake light switch. If the brake light goes out, then . . . 1. The rear brake light switch has failed internally, and needs to be replaced. 2. The rear brake pedal is not returning to the up position, for whatever reason, causing the light to stay on. There MAY be an issue with the brake master cyl, but I would put that far down the list of possibilities. If the brake light doesn't go out, leave the rear unplugged and unplug the front brake light switch. If the light goes out, the problem is with the front switch/lever. If the light stays on with both switches unplugged, then a 12V source somewhere is 'feeding' the R/Y wire that goes to the rear brake light, somewhere in the harness. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Wolk625 |
both of these sound pretty plausible. i just took it for a ride to see how it handled full riding power and i blew a fuse and lost all the stuff again - what i also noticed is that my fuse diagram does not match at all what is actually controlling what in there.  the missing fuse is the one that burned out, and controls the turn signals, brake light, and speedo/odo. the ground that i last fixed is still intact and getting good connection. I'll try your diagnosis as soon as I figure out if that fuse still does need to be a 15A, or if i need to stick something else in there. would be a huge help if i could see a picture of someone else's fuse box; i've just been replacing them in the spots they were in when i bought the bike and all's been good up to this point. | ||
| Akbuell |
Well All Righty Then . . . Thanks much for the photo; I'll get to that in a minute. Try the easy stuff first. Do the brake light switches. That will either eliminate/solve a problem, or confirm that the switches are OK. On both my '01 and '02 X-1's, the relays are to the front and to the bottom, so it appears that your fuse block is rotated compared to mine. Important only in that the harness may be twisted/stressed more than mine. That may be the source of the problem. Also why your bike doesn't match the service manual. The 15 amp fuse is the correct one. Going to a higher amp fuse risks burning stuff, like the harness, up. May not be a good plan. Might do, after investigating the switch issue, to remove the parcel tray under the seat and remove the fuse block. There should be 2 wires off of the acc fuse, both of them O/W. They are busy wires, feeding things like the horn switch, turn signal flasher, brake switches, and probably more. So the short is likely somewhere along one of the runs of the O/W wire. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Wolk625 |
alright, so the light being constant bright ended up being something stupid - either the way the bulb was put in or the O/W;R/W were reversed.. got everything working how it should but i'm still blowing the fuse after about 5 mins of riding when i stop at a traffic light. later tonight i'll take a multimeter to everywhere i can find an O/W and see if i can find any shorts, or maybe my original ground fix might not be working.? looks like i'll be spending some more time on it tonight |
