| Author | Message | ||
     Puls4521 |
So by the suggestion of another Badwebber, I thought it could be a good idea to hook up an oil pressure gauge to my S1W to monitor the oil pressure, particularly for the first couple times I start it after having the oil pump off (drive gear) as well as the cam over and subsequently the valve train out. So my thoughts would be to pick up a cheap gauge from an auto parts store and hook it up in place of the oil pressure switch, plumb it up and temporarily mount it somewhere I could keep an eye on it for the first couple virgin rides. Does this sound like a reasonable idea? Also what kind of pressure should I expect to see at idle and once its warmed up. Thanks for the input! | ||
| Phelan |
I plan to add one permanently. I think it's a great idea. | ||
| General_ulysses |
Be careful riding with it. Most of the inexpensive ones you buy at the auto parts store come with plastic tubing that runs to the gauge. Just make sure when it's routed to the bars it doesn't kink turning lock-to-lock and certainly doesn't touch the exhaust in any way. If the plastic line made contact with the exhaust, everything from a fire to having pressurized oil spraying onto the front and possibly rear tire might result. Not a good situation. A braided flex line would probably be best for a permanent install. Or find a oil pressure meter that has an electrical sending device (but not as cheap as the oil line versions). Good luck. | ||
| Buellistic |
The oil pressure at 2500 RPM should read 10 - 17 PSI and at idle speed(950- 1050 RPM) should read 7 - 12 PSI ... | ||
| Puls4521 |
Good advice Sean, I will definitely have to be careful with the routing. I think if it works out well, I may consider a permanent install, and for that I think your right, an electronic one would be the way to go. For now, I just want to make sure its pumping oil. I wish I could find a cheap gauge with a smaller sweep locally. Kind of silly to have one that goes up to 100 psi if it wont even reach 25. | ||
| Oldog |
find a oil pressure meter that has an electrical sending device (but not as cheap as the oil line versions). HD Mini gauge [ electric ] I had temp and I have oil pressure, works well its on an x1 I need to find my camera then I can send some pix if interested.... } | ||
| Puls4521 |
Yea pictures would be great! So would an electric gauge be a better call no matter what? Or would the cheap mechanical work ok for now? | ||
| Kalali |
Yes, please post a picture and the model number if you have is handy. It's been one of the items I've been considering to add to my X1 since I got the bike. | ||
| Purpony |
i have been wanting to add an oil pressure and temp but just havnt found the right ones yet. I really like to find a combo one something like this....  | ||
| Oldog |
OK the dash / and oil pressure set up, the mini gauge comes as a kit from HD, you need some small brass fittings and an afternoon to properly fit and install the gauge and sender. I had Arron Ohmstead Aaomy [ check the s2 section ] fab the dash for my x1 from my drawings, we made a plastic dash which I sent back to Aaron. the sender was installed on a tree with the oil pressure switch, trying to put it most any where else may not work, The electric sender eliminates the "hose" it can be tucked in by the headers and that works ok, The kit works best because the sender and gauge are ranged for an HD engine oil pressure, and matched the gauge back lights are yellow with a black face and white numbers, no options,  sender tucked in by header watch the wire route,  brass works ok try to get a heavy wall close nipple where it goes in to the engine dry fit this before tape and dope, this goes where the original oil pressure switch goes. You must do it in order ( which I have to work out each time [sorry]) the fittings should be inspected from time to time as well as oil changes, This is the second set, steel might work better some other points, 1. don't over tighten this stuff ,its brass going into aluminum and it is small, over tighten the motor fitting and you get to start fighting with reducers and making repairs, go slow pay attention..... 2. mine is oil tight, 1 reason, I don't back off on any fitting as I assemble the tree on the bike, I used "pink" teflon tape it seems to be a bit thicker.  dont waste money on straps and clamps to hold the gauges in the dash try to get a good fit on the body, they will stay put with out a bracket originally I had the temp gauge as well the weight of the chromed cup broke the back open and it filled with water  some day I will order the temp gauge kit and re install it, consider miniature digital gauges and small industrial senders I would love to have a volt meter as well. | ||
| Oldog |
fitting order nipple into engine street ell onto nipple reducing street onto tee ( sender & switch ) tee onto street (on engine) install sender and switch while holding pipes. try this order IHTH from the porch 'oldog | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks for the write up. Looks like a good bit of work to get it done right. I call this a 4 beer project. | ||
| Phelan |
Here are the ones I picked up yesterday for a similar project. I need to find a place to install the temp sensor though. I'm thinking of have an aluminum nut welded onto the backside of the oil bag with a hole drilled behind it to install the sensor that way. (Message edited by phelan on April 27, 2014) | ||
| Phelan |
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| Buellistic |
IMHO the most important gauge is the "OIL TEMPERATURE GAUGE" !!! | ||
| Kalali |
"IMHO the most important gauge is the "OIL TEMPERATURE GAUGE" !!!" Is that to watch the engine temperature to prevent overheat condition or to make sure the oil is warm enough before putting load on the motor? My head temperature has never gone above 175 even on hottest days of summer. Thanks. | ||
| Puls4521 |
On a side note IMHO its actually better to warm the engine up under load. I grew up on snowmobiles, in the last couple years Polaris had issues with people burning down sleds. They took two groups of sleds, one group was instructed to let the sled fully warm up before riding. The other group just got on and gently rode until the engine got up to temp. Every sled allowed to warm up before riding burned down. It turns out that when the sleds are cold, the oil doesnt flow properly and the engine doesnt lubricate correctly. | ||
| Oldog |
the oil temp mini gauge is also electric, I put the sender in the oil return line not to far from the pump, I figure oil leaving the engine would be the hottest and again no hoses or capillary tubes post up pix of your projects | ||
| Buellistic |
Puls4521 is absolutely correct on warming up easily under power, "BUT" the OIL TEMPERATURE GAUGE is also like a TEMPERATURE GAUGE on a "AIR COOLED ENGINE" !!! Less we not forget AIR FLOW around the cylinder/heads, proper jetting/fuel mapping, and proper spark plug het range ... | ||
| Phelan |
Jim, here's the mockup I made last night. I may change the layout as I'd like to add a clock. the sides probably won't be that far out but I do want to leave enough room to add a swith or two if I find a need. As big as the S2 front fairing is I figured I'd like to make the most of it.  (Message edited by phelan on April 28, 2014) | ||
| Oldog |
Looks good Ross, I can't wait to see the finished project! I had Aaron mat finish mine to prevent glare he did a great Pegasus logo on it as a surprise | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I just did a mechanical version on my S3 last year, here is the thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/722676.html |
