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Rockabilly
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've just converted my X1 to carbs. When i go to pull away at the lights etc. i have to release the clutch very slowly or it will stall- similar to trying to pull away in a higher gear from stopped. The bike idles fine and once moving runs smoothly until i get into high revs (over 100mph not sure rpm)when it runs out of power suddenly. It has a K&N filter and aftermarket (white Bros) exhaust. Jets in the carb are 45 and 195.
could be two seperate issues. I'm not too concerned about the high rpms but the stalling at take off is a real pain.
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am not sure about whats involved with these conversions. Did you remove the old control module and switch over to an older style ignition module? If not I would think the control module is quite confused and may be retarding or cutting out ignition. Also, the absence of something like the VOES may be causing issues as well, since it has no way to know when to advance ignition timing.

But then again, this could be a swing and a miss for me...
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Rockabilly
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok. So i am using a new Crane ignition and have a VOES connected.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have the new ignition set for VOES operation? Might there be a leak in the VOES hose? Did you leave the ECM connected? Did you set the timing?
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Blu1hockey
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why convert to carbs? I've seen other people do this. Wondering what the advantage is.
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Rockabilly
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I converted because I simply couldn't get the fuel injection to work properly. After replacing every sensor, fuel pump, ecm, I just gave up. At least now I can ride my bike and I will be able to sort out the relatively minor problems I'm having soon.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you change the cam position sensor?

I got my S3 to finally run dependably after I turned it into a Sportster. XL CPS, M2 ECM, coil, and VOES, I soldered all the wires to the new ECM with no connectors, and added a 60-year-old SU carburetor.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How did you route the fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor? Gut the pump or drill a new hole in the low spot of the tank? I went with the new hole method and blocked the fuel pump holes off with bolts (head on the inside), nylon washers, and nuts. You might have a fuel flow issue before the carburetor.
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Gusm2
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fuel delivery ? blocked jets ? accelerator pump working ?
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Rockabilly
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 04:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm starting to think this is a timing issue. I adjusted the timing this morning and take off seems a bit better. I've already blown two bulbs on my timing light which makes me wonder about the voltage regulator.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check voltage across battery terminals. Should be 12.6 at rest and above 14 when running - if it is above 15 your VR is at fault.

Try using a car battery to power your timing light and only connecting the inductive sensor to the front spark plug lead.
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Rockabilly
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. That's a good idea about using a car battery to power the light. I'll check the reg. too. Must go and source a new bulb again now
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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you change the timing cup as carbed uses different one-----
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2014 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's an excellent point. If you used the old cup with a new CPS, you would get unwanted sparks because of the extra slots the EFI uses to trigger the fuel injectors.
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Rockabilly
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 02:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have changed the cup to the correct one for carbs. I rode the bike a bit yesterday and it's definitely much better since I adjusted the timing. I used the LED on the ignition module to set it up at TDC and then gave it 5 degrees of advance from there. If I can get a new bulb for my timing light i will try timing it more accurately with that
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Pash
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the Crane programmable? Do you know which curve it uses?

It may be still be a fuelling issue like Gus says, can you see the accelerator pump working when you open the throttle?
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Rockabilly
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 02:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ignition is programmable alright. A scale 1-9. I have it set to maximum advance(9).
Accelerator pump is working.
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Pash
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 05:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tried a lower advance? It may be that you a pinking when you roll the throttle on...

First port of call would be to replicate the Q curve, have a look here...

http://www.ukbeg.com/pash/Battle2Win/B2W%20ignitio n.pdf
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