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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 30, 2014 » Right way to drain oil in an S1? « Previous Next »

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General_ulysses
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Getting ready to change the fluids in my "new" '97 S1. I see there's a drain plug on the little rubber tube that comes out of the oil tank. I'm sure that has to be removed and drained. It seems like I should also drain whatever residual oil there must be floating around in the crankcase too - but I can't find a drain plug (although I do see a transfer case drain plug). Am I missing anything here or is the oil tank drain and the filter the only things that need to be drained/changed?
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Run the bike to operation temp, then drain - then there will be minimal fluid in the case, as the system is a dry sump, meaning the fluid is stored in the reservoir, not the case.

You don't really need to drain everything dry, but if you really feel you must you could pull your plugs or disconnect the wires, or even leave the fuel off and crank it over a couple times to push the oil lines clear too, not a great idea though since then you'll be starting the bike dry next time you light it up... and that's pretty bad for an engine...
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't warm the bike up prior to draining the oil you'll overfill it due to the oil that has drained down into the case, and wonder why your bike has blown out the dipstick and spattered oil all over your rear tire next time you start her up.


I happens fairly often to new tuber owners, and is almost a right of passage.
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Thylacine
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Over the years I have owned many dry sump motors. What I do is drain tank and change filter. Many people , I feel , put way too much thought into their dirty oil. Some even crank a dry motor to rid of excess oil in sump. . Every 1500, new oil in reservoir, every 3k new filter. Simple/clean/effective.
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Kalali
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I first get everything ready and take the bike out for a good ride. I then drain the oil as soon as I pull into my garage. If you wait too long oil will drain back into the case. Ideally you should be able to drain around 2.5Qts including what's in the filter most of which could end up all over the regulator if you're not careful.
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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just suspend it from the rafters upside down you may need to put some cardboard down to catch some oil spots though.
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just PM me for OIL SYSTEM Class 101 ...
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Jramsey
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. Remove oil filter.
2. Install new oil filter.
3. Drain old oil from oil tank.
4. Add 2 quarts of new oil to oil tank.
5. Disconnect return hose from oil tank.
(Should be located rear of tank on left
side near top)
6. With return hose pointed in safe direction (container of some sort) start engine and watch old oil pump out, as soon as you see clean oil coming out shut off engine.
7. Reconnect return hose to oil tank and top off oil to just above lower mark on dipstick.
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General_ulysses
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, I just ran it for awhile to warm it up and then drained the tank and removed the filter. Then put a new filter on and refilled with 2 qts of Amsoil. Next time I may do the oil line removal and pump out method. I've done that with automatic transmissions on cars before, works pretty good. Thanks for the helpful info in the meantime, hoping to take her to the inspection station tomorrow and get her on the road real soon.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't waste time (and oil) overthinking it.

I've been changing tuber oil this way for tens of thousands of miles with no issue - ride for 5 minutes, rack it up, drain the tank, change the filter, fill the tank.

If you run it for 5 after the change and check the oil, you'll see for yourself that the oil on the stick is nice and clean.

Syn3, every 5k miles, no issues. 99 M2, 50k before I sold it. S2, 35k currently. 01 M2L, 5k ("her" old bike). S1W, 10k. Ulysses (same concept, just the swingarm instead of the tank), 35k miles.
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use the method described above by Jramsey.

An old racer who worked at the dealership where I bought my 1970 Triumph taught me to do it that way when I bought my new bike.

He explained that it was the best way to get all the dirty oil out.

43 years later I still have that bike so it must be a good method.
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