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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 30, 2014 » Pulling rear tire - M2 « Previous Next »

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Red7ring
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This would be the first time I've pulled the rear off this (well, any) bike. Need to get new rubber on it-
Won't have the funds to get a new tire mounted for another week or so. I haven't checked service prices with local shops yet, but I'm assuming the cost would add another week or two of waiting on my part.

Does anyone have experience/tips? I've searched around, but cant see anything on setup/mirroring conditions to ensure everything is straight and done right. I'd hate to put everything back together and realize I missed steps or screwed up adjustments.
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I checked, the cheapest was to buy a new tire mail-order, like from Jake Wilson, and then find a local place to put it on. Some shops here will change the tire, and balance for $25. When taking the wheel off, make sure you draw or take a picture of how the spacers and washers fit together. Find the brake stay where the caliper mount has a bolt sticking into the swing arm to keep it from rotating. It will likely need the belt adjusters slacked up all the way, to get the belt off the pulley. When you put it back together, the axle adjusters need to be the same distance from the swingarm flat in front of them. It's supposed to be within .015", that's 15 thousandths, need something to measure that, like dial caliper...
There's a few things that depend on how you hold up the back of the bike. When putting on the wheel, I try to let the wheel/tire rest on something that keeps it the right height, while threading the axle through the swingarm, bracket, wheel, spacers, etc. Doesn't hurt if you can get a helper person for that matter. Not too bad if you go slow. I already had the 36mm socket, can't think of any tools I had to buy.
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Red7ring
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the advice! We a few pairs of calipers

We have a pull chain hoist in our garage, going to be using that to hoist the bike from the frame, while stabilizing the front tire. I'll be able to rope my brother into giving me a hand with it all.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Set the belt "scary loose" - i.e. you should nearly be able to make it touch the swingarm.

make sure the axle centerline is the same distance from the rear of the swingarm on each side. I don't measure the depth of the adjuster screw because they could be different lengths. Axle center to swingarm end...pretty reliable couple of points there.

And there's the old standby - if the bike tracks straight now, and the belt is the proper (scary-loose) tension...mark where the axle is now, and put it back. Sharpies are good tools : )

And most shops, if you carry in a wheel, charge half an hour labor to mount/balance. Leave the pulley and rotor ON, and get a paint pen to mark the bolt positions. If the marks don't line up...retorque the bolts before you put the bike back together.
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