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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through September 21, 2014 » Replacing Headgaskets on the M2.. « Previous Next »

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Mattc55
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2014 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello all! Just wanted to double check my information here, and hear any tips before I go ahead with this.. I have a noticeable leakage from my headgaskets, right between the cover and cylinder. Is it as simple as taking the gas tank out and reaching the bolts right there? Quick fix? Anything I should keep my eyes peeled for? Thanks ahead of time, Just wanted to hear from the experts first!
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Jolly
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2014 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is it your head gaskets or your lower rocker box gasket? The lower gasket, under the rocker box should be a one piece metal gasket, paper stock ones suck and leak badly!!!
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Mattc55
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2014 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm guessing the lower gasket? Here's a pic of it.






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Jim2
Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2014 - 04:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is the lower rockerbox gasket. If you are replacing both you can get a complete rocker gasket kit with new umbrella valves and fiber washers for $50 at any harley dealer.
Or get the cometic gasket kit from al at American Sport Bike . You will need to cut down an allen wrench for the rocker bolts because its a tight fit. Cut the short side so its just deep enough to seat square into the bolt. If you round any bolts the new ones are $1 each at any harley dealer. Clean gasket surfaces good but careful not to scratch or gouge. I use a scotch bright pad with water or engine oil. Clean bolt threads too. Note where the umbrella valves are when you disassemble so you put them back in same place. Tack back covers off first so you have room to get the front ones out. Put front cover back on first for reassembly. Follow service manual. Will have to setup cylinder you working on at top dead center before loosening bottom cover. There is a pattern to follow when tightening bottom cover. Follow service manual torque specs for all fasteners. If you don't have service manual you can use the one for the '96 S1 in the knowledge vault here on badweb. This is not a hard job to do.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can get the cometic rocker gaskets just about anywhere, even ebay, jp cycles might as well.

not hard, I removed the tank, then access to the top bolts was pretty easy.

I would also replace the exhaust bolts before they break too - those are I believe grade 12.
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Mattc55
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the help guys! I will be tackling this project either this weekend or next, wish me luck.
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Kilroy
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 05:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

pay attention to torque values here, a lot of the fasteners you will be tightening have torque values of in-lbs not ft-lbs.
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Coxster
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I snapped an exhaust stud a couple of summers ago and had to pull a cylinder head. Now I use Loctite 222 on the studs. It's super-low grade bond ( made for guns and fine stuff ) but it keeps the water out of the threads completely. I also have a 1/4"-12" extension that lets me check all four exhaust nuts with a ratchet and a socket in about 30 seconds
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