|Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 01:54 am: ||
It would not be a proper riding season if my cyclone didn't have at least one major issue. New to the list -
base gaskets blown. unfortunately a few too many super cold trips to work this winter and there was perhaps a few 'short trips' that I know caused it. Also would like to replace the primary chain tensioner - starting to make just a little too much noise down there. Also may be time for new clutch, rebuild/replace the starter, oil pump gear, the list goes on....
The base gaskets are first.
I was hoping for some advice -
If I do it, is this an easy enough job based on:
1 - I've never torn it apart before
2 - I don't have a covered garage to repair (what if it rains?) just my parking lot with neighbors that aren't fond of auto work out front.
3 - I don't have a torque wrench anymore (lost)
4 - searched BWB.com for a thorough 'how to' including torque values, step by step, but not finding it
5 - I need to finish in a weekend if I open it up in my front yard.
Other option, take it a shop and bore the jugs and new pistons - and the base gaskets would be part of the deal. If this is the case - need recommendations for a good shop in DC metro area. (haven't found a shop yet that is happy to see a leaking buell ride in, including Battley HD - even though they just got the new 1190RX on the show room floor!)
I've recently purchased the cometic full gasket set from Al at American Sportbike, so that part is out of the way. Do I need any other parts before digging in? (new head bolts? mine are getting rusty - misc washers? clips or seals that should not be reused?, etc)
Thanks for any advice.
|Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 01:00 pm: ||
It's not a weekend job if you have not done it before and aren't equipped with a good shop and tools. You MUST have torque wrenches or don't bother. You would have to have a Factory Service Manual which has all of the Torque Values. You should have that and a Parts Manual anyway. Just cleaning parts after disassemble can take a day and it's an important step you don't want to exclude. You would need to measure the cylinder and may need new rings. Would need new C-clips for the piston pins for sure. Would need to hone cylinders if not a need to bore them and go with oversized pistons. May need to clean up head while it's off, including checking valve stems/seats/seals.
Also since you have to pull off the carb you may need new intake seals. Same for exhaust.
You have to remove the front and top motor mounts so you have to have proper support for the bike. A front wheel chalk, hydrolic floor jack, jack stands at minimum.
I'm doing this right now and I have a garage and tools. I don't recommend you get into it that far in your situation.
Just my humble opinion.
|Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 01:23 pm: ||
PM me, I live in the local area
|Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2014 - 11:47 pm: ||
Thanks Jim2, you summed up how I'm feeling about it. I have redone most of the rest of the bike myself from exhaust out, but nothing internal yet.
Jolly - PM sent.
|Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 09:20 am: ||
If you leave the PISTONS in the cylinders(ie: REMOVE THE WRIST PINS)the RINGS will remain undisturbed ...
|Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 12:54 am: ||
I opted to not remove the cylinders just yet, it appears that the oil was leaking from the push rods, so replaced pushrod tubes with zippers spring loaded ones. Thanks Jolly - This was the cause of most tot the oil leaking - more on that one later, but Jolly has a great write up on how to do this one.
Just prior to this job, I heard some rattling in the case - sure enough it was the chain tensioner - while I was in there I replaced the clutch plates with the Barnett kit from American Sportbike - the pull is much more linear and no slipping like it was - Both jobs are very easy if you have a clutch spring compression tool - again the Barnett one is perfect.
The killer part was my original belt sheared off half of its teeth on the way to work one morning - When everyone tells you to replace the isolators when changing the belt OR change the belt when changing the isolators - DO IT!
I went through two isolator tools and a little scuffing up the swing arm block before I finally did the "scott-free" method of isolator changes - this is the best way to do it. I'll try to post up a 'how to' on this method which I couldn't seem to find on this forum - but it works and its inexpensive. All the parts I purchased at Lowe's for less than $17 to build the tool.
All back together, compression in the 220/200 area, and no more leaking - except a small seeping at the base of the rear cylinder! I know after all that I should have just gone for the whole thing, but budget is way blown and this is my daily ride - couldn't go with out transportation any longer!
this small oil leak will become my fall project which brings me to a few questions:
Anyone have thoughts on the 1250 cc from NRHS? Is this a solid product? What kind of performance increase if I keep stock cams/lifters, etc? I assume my CV carb/ headers will plug right in?
Just curious as a route to go.
Plus a friend with an 883 may be interested in my 1200cc piston/cylinders if I swap - so would they fit his late model 883 Iron?
|Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 08:21 pm: ||
Be sure to inspect your rear belt drive pulley for wear. When the plating wears thin it starts to flake off in sharp flakes that can eat up the drive belt. Let us know how the inspection goes.
Now when you do eventually go to replace your base gaskets you already have the adjustable push-rod tubes which makes the leak-free assembly a whole lot easier.