G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through February 12, 2014 » Push Rod Tube Seals « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yo_barry
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone have a super secret method for installing the lower push rod tube seals so they don't leak?

Thanks,

Barry
2001 S3T (leaking oil)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

clean clean clean,
quality new parts
take your time

jim top end work @ 45K - 55K no leaks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Collapsible push rod tube assemblies from zippers performance or sold through NRHS.. Use stock push rods. Outstanding results in 2 of my motors... they are big twin style design with billet bases that have O-rings in the bottom of the base to seat against the motor, and seals at the top and bottom of the push rod tube assemblies with the spring in the middle pushing up and down against the seals. no tricks, no leaks, first time install.

I have a thread dedicated to it, or read my s2 project.

(Message edited by Jolly on February 04, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/714295.html#POST2331538


http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partsvalvetrain.shtml


(Message edited by Jolly on February 04, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yo_barry
Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the input, I'll see what I can do over the next few days.

Barry
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mcelhaney14
Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I installed my stock push rod tube bases with some good quality seals and they haven't leaked in 12K miles.

The trick I did was to start tightening the lock ring down and look to see where the seal was pouching out. It was important to get the seal to pouch out where you could see it, therefore any direction away from the bolt.

When the seal stuck out I tightened the lock ring a little more then used the side of a small cotter key pick to push the seal back in while gently tightening the lock ring.

This seemed to work for me.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Screamer
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2014 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you have a chronic pushrod cover oil leak problem, you may want to check the distance from the top edge of the pushrod cover to the first shoulder where it compresses the top o-ring. I'd have to dig some out and measure them again to confirm the distance but I believe the length of the top straight portion (between the rolled edge and where the first shoulder begins) is about 5/16". We discovered in the late 90s (while dealing with some chronic rebuilt leakers) that some pushrod covers were excessively long in the distance from the top end - to the first shoulder (even though the overall length may be correct).
Originally the bottom seal was glued to the bottom retention plate on a factory- assembled engine. This prevented the bottom seal from rolling under if the top- to-shoulder distance was too long and would seldom leak. Once the top- end was disassembled and if the seal was replaced, it could now roll under and leak (if it had an improperly dimensioned cover). Or, sometimes if the pushrod cover was not "pushed up" against the top o-ring when assembled - it would leak almost immediately at the top.
I'll see if I have some that I can photograph.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration